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Ordered lift springs.. I'm stoked

78Suburban

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Well, I've got 4" TC front springs and zero rates on the way. If I use that setup, will I have to lengthen my front driveshaft probably? I've got a th400/203. Will I have to get the zero rate machined into a taper?

If I order Kert's flip with the 6" shackles, I should be good to go with the rear shaft, right?

What about the front crossover exhaust pipe on my stock exhaust system, is there any kinda parts store pipe that I can ghetto rig to make my front shaft clear?

Sorry for all these repeated noob questions, But I'm just so stoked about my lift springs headed toward me in the big brown truck :bow: I know these questions are kinda hard to answer because it varies, but I'm just wondering what kinda experiences people have had with simlar suspension/ tranny/tcase setup, with stock driveshafts. Its a :burb: by the way :p:
thanks,
James
 
Congrats on becoming a real wheeler. :waytogo:

With basic aftermarket lift springs your castor should be fine, but hey, YMMV. So no, you shouldn't need a taper on the zero rate.

You might be able to reuse your old driveshaft. It's easier for the long wheelbase guys to get away with that than it is for everyone else. Shackle flips will actually move your axle forward (very slightly) whereas blocks move it straight down. The longer the driveshaft, the less the angles increase, the less it is stretched. I think you should be fine.

And for the exhaust...:hack:, then go duals. :D
 
My guess is you will not need to lengthen your front drive shaft with 5" of lift, but your exhaust crossover pipe may hit the driveshaft. With a shackle flip in the rear, your rear driveshaft should be OK as well.
 
You will most likely have to get the front shaft lengthened. Mine only has 3" or so of slip before it fully extends and I am having to get it lengthened with an extended slip.
 
If you want to talk about $$$$$$, then talk about getting a new crosspipe installed. If you want to do it on the cheap, cut that crap out. Buy a set of $18 mufflers. Then find your most reasonable exhaust shop. I had two pipes made at mine. Walked it with all the dimensions, angles, bends, measurements, etc for him. Even had a scaled drawing. The easier you make it for them, the easier they make it on your wallet. He even brought me to the back, and I was able to walk him through it. Out the door, it was $25 for BOTH of my pipes. I threw those in the truck, slapped the mufflers on the end of them, and called it good. A LOT less money than trying to get a new y-pipe made.
 
Or if you want ghetto rigged, buy some pipe from your local shop, get one shaped to the approximate shape you need, with a little extra on the ends. Then chop the old one out, and splice in the new one, custom fit as best you can with your angle grinder or sawzall, then weld it in.
 
hey bud good to here your finally gettin a left on the ole burb :D
 
You will most likely have to get the front shaft lengthened. Mine only has 3" or so of slip before it fully extends and I am having to get it lengthened with an extended slip.

I am thinking you are correct because when I had 4" of lift on my truck, the front drive shaft was on the outer limits of not needing to be lengthend, but when I went to 6", it had to lengthend.
 
isn't there some kinda spacer I can use? or is that a bad idea, do I just need to find a relaible shop around here?
thanks,
James
 
I just installed the 4" TC springs up front and it looks like I need a longer shaft. Although the shaft is a double cardan style shaft (in front) and so I'm guessing it's not stock. After the lift, it only has about 1" of engagement. Is there any guide on how much slip/engagement is needed?
 
I do not think there is anybody that makes front driveshaft spacers anymore? I looked through Superlifts cataloug, and there where no spacers offered. I looked at some other vendors of adapter and custom driveshaft stuff, and none of them offer a spacer either. Might have to make your own.
 
so I won't be able to use my stock drive line without getting it lengthened even if I take the zero rate off the front springs? I really thought alot of people just threw 4" lifts on and never touched their driveshafts, especially with a suburban with a long aruse th400/np203.
 
i have the same combo as you (th400/203) but a 6" lift and my driveline was cool because i installed a front 60 to make up for the driveline being too short. had to grind the tabs a little on the cv part, but with a 4" you'll be ok. As far as the exhaust, i had to do the same thing as you so i went to the nearest muffler shop on my lunch break and told the guy there that i wanted it to clear an (invisable) driveline from here to here and he cut the crossover section out and re welded a new piece to clear for 30$. now im wheelin but i hammered my rear driveline almost immediatly because it was too short. So i got one from a th350 truck instead of a th400 truck so the length worked out again plus it had a 1350 instead of 1310 on the rear yoke so i snagged the whole thing with the yoke.
 
I thought you ran open pipes? If you do then who cares about a y-pipe just run 2 pipes straight back.

Or turn downs right off the headers :D
 
Chevy305 said:
I thought you ran open pipes? If you do then who cares about a y-pipe just run 2 pipes straight back.

Or turn downs right off the headers :D

Stock exhaust.. I had removed the muffler and ran flex hose.. but now I've got a very nice, big, QUIET, stock, free muffler and some flex hose runing after that.
 
78Suburban said:
I really thought alot of people just threw 4" lifts on and never touched their driveshafts

I'm a NOOB, and I thought that too, and got lucky. I'm not too sure about my front driveshaft, but am told that it's okay. We'll see. The rear is more than fine.

Mine's a Jimmy, with 4" front springs, shackle flip rear. Take a good look before you start thinking "throwing 4" on" is just that. I didn't experience anything major, but the bunch of minor things made me wish I had planned better. I am VERY happy though with the finished(?) product.
 

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