89k5350
1/2 ton status
how about eastwood products? they have a single stage urethane kit for 135 bucks was just wondering if anyone has any experience with it?
CK5
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paint advice
- Thread starter 89k5350
- Start date
89k5350
1/2 ton status
what about summit racing paint or eastwood my local hardware stores don't carry ppg or nason/ DuPont or any big names. summit racing seems to have a good selection of single stage urethanes and same with eastwood with decent prices
y5mgisi
1 ton status
From my research, the summit stuff seems pretty decent. 
the summit stuff looks comparable to the Nason.. about the same price..
stop in your local bodyshop and ask him where he orders his paint from locally.. I know tcpgobal sells tons of paint for mail order.....
stop in your local bodyshop and ask him where he orders his paint from locally.. I know tcpgobal sells tons of paint for mail order.....
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Tcp is an online source? Do they do factory colors?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That site is tough to navigate on the phone.
they're good, I've ordered from them numerous times..... one of the best overall bodyshop suppliers on the web.. from guns to paint, etc..
http://www.tcpglobal.com/
http://www.tcpglobal.com/
89k5350
1/2 ton status
how about guns? could you recommend a good spray gun nothing fancy but just something to get the job done at an affordable price.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
What brand of paint that they carry would you buy?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Pretty sure he will recommend the devilbiss starting line kit. That's what was recommended to me. Only $160ish for a pair of guns.
yeah, a nice setup for all your future bodywork needs basically..
you can go on the cheap tho... the guns in 50 to 75 range spray good too... like Astro and similar... you can just get a 1.3, or even a 1.8 tip gun, shoot color once, be done...
just can be a bit tougher getting rebuild kits down the line, usually an offbrand... anything from the big names Devilbiss, Binks, Sharpe, Sata, etc will be decent..
it's the Taiwan $29 HF guns ya basically have to throw away after use...
you can go on the cheap tho... the guns in 50 to 75 range spray good too... like Astro and similar... you can just get a 1.3, or even a 1.8 tip gun, shoot color once, be done...
just can be a bit tougher getting rebuild kits down the line, usually an offbrand... anything from the big names Devilbiss, Binks, Sharpe, Sata, etc will be decent..
it's the Taiwan $29 HF guns ya basically have to throw away after use...
89k5350
1/2 ton status
yea so I just found out that I can get a discount on any paint brand through international truck company because my mom works there!! so now the question is, is there really anything between DuPont,glausirt,ppg or nasen that really makes one stand out more than the other? I haven't gotten a price yet because the body shop manager there says I need to give him a paint code first. so if you were in my situation what would you do? I don't wanna buy a gallon of paint based on what it looks like on a paint chart. so any one got any pics of these brands with any shades of red? I don't have access to links as im not a paying member
the color is the color.. different shades wont be because of the manny, it'll be because of a slight paint code variation from plant to plant for that vehicle based on the vin #...
in other words.. all the different lines of paint are looked at in is, quality/type of the resins, pigment, etc used and user-friendlyness.. that generally dictates which line. from economy to premium, it's based one.. hardeners are than affected based on how fancy the resin is..
you are looking at a HUGE dif in price between a DuPont Nason line, and Glasurits high-end stuff.. which I consider THE premium automotive paint...
even with a discount...
I run DuPont stuff.. the Nason is VERY economical.. they're big, and in most towns/counties.. so easier to find sometimes.... them and PPG are the huge ones... whether it's the chroma base metallic copper with Imron over it for a higher end finish on my K5, or Mutt with an economy uro Nason.. comparatively, the Nason is a HUGELY wiser choice.. it looks damn good and is tough as he!!.. the Imron beats it in both, looks and durability, as would a big dollar Glasurit, but are they worth double and triple the money? ,in some sick car show/resto car? sure..
but most cases not I would surmise..
ya haven't painted till ya shoot Glasurit tho.. that stuff is killer, my chevelle was BIG $ blue pearl/high solids clear.... i'll never have another vehicle shot in that stuff.. it'll run 10 to 20% pricier than ppg, DuPont, etc based on the various lines out from each..
auto paints, you generally get what you pay for... but that's way more based on what level of quality/price vs brands.. sure, there have certainly been some flop products.. a lot of the older enamels like Centari from dupont, one of the PPG primers, etc had their issues.... some of the early/current water based stuff fo sure.. but most of the better known companies have their chit down pretty good..
and colors mean nothing.. any brand can make any color... well, any collision based system...but you'll be fine with any of the major manny's, especially if ya go with med/higher quality lines offered by them...
stop in the local paint supplier, or call em.. see what they carry and recommend.. if ya stop in, you can thumb thru the fleet color charts from the mannys they carry.. these are just the full spectrum of color charts, that give you various choices in all the colors.. like a simpler color picker on the web.. that's where the gold came from for my K5.. convoy gold off the imron chart... original colors you might paint your "fleet" of trucks in, but wouldn't see on a Mustang, Yonda, etc...
here's the reds for a DuPont fleet chart to show ya that ya get a few choices per color..
but you can have ANY red made.. do google searches... the general paint codes are easy once you have the year and what goofy name Dodge/Furd/GM wanted to call it.....usually it's simple.. 90U, etc, depending on who made the car.. the different paint manny #'s for the same factory # often add confusion to the issue... Glasuit runs dif # than ppg, etc.. any dif in color is a factory variance.. different yr's sometimes had different "shades" of certain colors, depending on the plant/paint batch.. flint mich, vs Kentucky, etc...
some.. more than others.. Chrysler was always pretty bad.. ice blue in the 80's had 13 friggin variations...
standard
darker
lighter
redder
greener
rinse
repeat...
f*cking nightmare matching that abortion...
I have a pretty big chip book selection from the 60's to the 80's.. has every car color that was done.. 1967 Ferrari red.. 1973 corvette yellow.. 72 mopar fire engine red, yada......
I could thumb thru my old 70's ppg book.. walk into my paint guy and tell him I want the standard variation of 1976 ford cactus tan... generally, you will always get the standard formula .. unless you specify.. obviously, mainly when trying to match/blend an existing color is this an issue.. or at least ask if the color has any variations for that model yr... don't always, but sometimes, yes.. so having your vin # handy some times helps.. plus, he may treat ya bit better if he thinks your not a typical idjit customer...
in other words.. all the different lines of paint are looked at in is, quality/type of the resins, pigment, etc used and user-friendlyness.. that generally dictates which line. from economy to premium, it's based one.. hardeners are than affected based on how fancy the resin is..
you are looking at a HUGE dif in price between a DuPont Nason line, and Glasurits high-end stuff.. which I consider THE premium automotive paint...
even with a discount...
I run DuPont stuff.. the Nason is VERY economical.. they're big, and in most towns/counties.. so easier to find sometimes.... them and PPG are the huge ones... whether it's the chroma base metallic copper with Imron over it for a higher end finish on my K5, or Mutt with an economy uro Nason.. comparatively, the Nason is a HUGELY wiser choice.. it looks damn good and is tough as he!!.. the Imron beats it in both, looks and durability, as would a big dollar Glasurit, but are they worth double and triple the money? ,in some sick car show/resto car? sure..
but most cases not I would surmise..
ya haven't painted till ya shoot Glasurit tho.. that stuff is killer, my chevelle was BIG $ blue pearl/high solids clear.... i'll never have another vehicle shot in that stuff.. it'll run 10 to 20% pricier than ppg, DuPont, etc based on the various lines out from each..
auto paints, you generally get what you pay for... but that's way more based on what level of quality/price vs brands.. sure, there have certainly been some flop products.. a lot of the older enamels like Centari from dupont, one of the PPG primers, etc had their issues.... some of the early/current water based stuff fo sure.. but most of the better known companies have their chit down pretty good..
and colors mean nothing.. any brand can make any color... well, any collision based system...but you'll be fine with any of the major manny's, especially if ya go with med/higher quality lines offered by them...
stop in the local paint supplier, or call em.. see what they carry and recommend.. if ya stop in, you can thumb thru the fleet color charts from the mannys they carry.. these are just the full spectrum of color charts, that give you various choices in all the colors.. like a simpler color picker on the web.. that's where the gold came from for my K5.. convoy gold off the imron chart... original colors you might paint your "fleet" of trucks in, but wouldn't see on a Mustang, Yonda, etc...
here's the reds for a DuPont fleet chart to show ya that ya get a few choices per color..
but you can have ANY red made.. do google searches... the general paint codes are easy once you have the year and what goofy name Dodge/Furd/GM wanted to call it.....usually it's simple.. 90U, etc, depending on who made the car.. the different paint manny #'s for the same factory # often add confusion to the issue... Glasuit runs dif # than ppg, etc.. any dif in color is a factory variance.. different yr's sometimes had different "shades" of certain colors, depending on the plant/paint batch.. flint mich, vs Kentucky, etc...
some.. more than others.. Chrysler was always pretty bad.. ice blue in the 80's had 13 friggin variations...
standard
darker
lighter
redder
greener
rinse
repeat...
f*cking nightmare matching that abortion...
I have a pretty big chip book selection from the 60's to the 80's.. has every car color that was done.. 1967 Ferrari red.. 1973 corvette yellow.. 72 mopar fire engine red, yada......
I could thumb thru my old 70's ppg book.. walk into my paint guy and tell him I want the standard variation of 1976 ford cactus tan... generally, you will always get the standard formula .. unless you specify.. obviously, mainly when trying to match/blend an existing color is this an issue.. or at least ask if the color has any variations for that model yr... don't always, but sometimes, yes.. so having your vin # handy some times helps.. plus, he may treat ya bit better if he thinks your not a typical idjit customer...
Last edited:
89k5350
1/2 ton status
after some research ive got my heart set on nason torch red. ill update on what kinda price the international body shop can give. cant wait to spray some paint on. but I can wait to do rockers cab corners and prep work
my Nason cans for Mutt are printed labeled as "Ryoken Red"
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good stuff ryoken!
What I want to do is get my devilbiss starting line guns, and get a gallon of uber cheap paint. Then get one of my many friends that have crappy looking cars and paint one for them to start getting a feel for painting. Then when I get MY paint, I will have at least pulled the trigger before.
What I want to do is get my devilbiss starting line guns, and get a gallon of uber cheap paint. Then get one of my many friends that have crappy looking cars and paint one for them to start getting a feel for painting. Then when I get MY paint, I will have at least pulled the trigger before.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Here's a potential important question, what is the minimum in line air drier you can get away with? Can you really just use one of the cheap disposable units? Or do you need to get one that is $250+?
one of the ironies of bodywork is.. novice/entry level paints can be non user-friendly on occasion...
with price, comes user-friendly.. lower line products aren't as durable, etc but also they often can be more "challenging" than uber expensive stuff to work with, sand, shoot, etc...
you can get a pretty nice paint job with an old 80's gallon of straight enamel, "no name paint" from the swap meet for $90 a gallon... bug friendly but not buffer friendly...
but ya get lucky you can get a pretty nice , tough job.. may oxidize down the road, have some dust.. but hey killer from 20' for a couple yrs minimum...
with price, comes user-friendly.. lower line products aren't as durable, etc but also they often can be more "challenging" than uber expensive stuff to work with, sand, shoot, etc...
you can get a pretty nice paint job with an old 80's gallon of straight enamel, "no name paint" from the swap meet for $90 a gallon... bug friendly but not buffer friendly...
but ya get lucky you can get a pretty nice , tough job.. may oxidize down the road, have some dust.. but hey killer from 20' for a couple yrs minimum...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You nailed two of my points of reason. Because I would be shooting cheap paint, I should learn quite a bit from it. And because it wouldn't be my car, I could give a **** less how it holds up! I was thinking of a gallon from paint for cars. Com. They have gallons of uro with the reducer/hardener for as low as like $78.it would surly be not so good paint, but at least then I could afford to get some practice.
I was thinking of a gallon from paint for cars. Com. They have gallons of uro with the reducer/hardener for as low as like $78.it would surly be not so good paint, but at least then I could afford to get some practice.
