so this past winter was not nice to my weathered paint job. All the areas where my paint was thin or chipped is starting to rust. I have decided a paint job is a prudent investment, but I am heading over to the sand box this summer and I will not be able to get to the body work and paint till next summer. So in order to prevent me from coming home to a rusted out blazer should I; remove the rust mechanically with a wire wheel and sand paper and then seal with some rattle can paint -or- should I get some rust encapsulator paint from Eastwood? Any help is greatly appreciated!
CK5
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Paint and body prep/rust removal advice
- Thread starter usaf_blazer
- Start date
I can't answer this but am curious also.
Bump!
Bump!
your always best mechanically removing it as best as possible.. even if you can't get it all, you can always put a converter on it, POR15, etc to get you by till you can do it right..
Ryoken... So remove as much rust as possible with wire wheel and sand paper. Then spray a couple coats of rust converter. Then seal it up with a rust encapsulator. Is that correct?
yup, that works.. you probably don't even need the encapsilator.. you could just douche a bunch of enamel rattlecan over the converter..
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
Putting por15 directly on the rust has yielded me better results that putting it over anything else
it's not supposed to go over anything else.. it's snake oil...
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
If by "Snake oil" you mean that it's fake or hype, I would like to hear your experience. I used it close to a year ago and I thought I worked great. Paraphrasing the directions and what the guy at the paint store told me, it must be applied directly over rust. First remove loose rust with a brush. Por15 is supposed to encapsulate rust preventing oxygen from reaching it. Two coats are recommended. Top coat is needed if it's going to be exposed to sunlight. UV rays break it down. I followed the instructions I was given to repair my battery box and it worked great. This is my first attempt at restoring a vehicle so I've never used anything else so I have no frame of reference. Before I found this product I applied a cheap spray bed liner to some slightly rusted areas. I later applied por15. Several months later I was doing some repairs after being hit and the por15 was easily scraped off but my battery box is stout as ever.
Ryoken, have you found something better? Are you saying that it doesn't hold up over time? I am not lost on the fact that the product was "sold" to me but this is a small town and I have a good relationship with them. They have been EXTREMELY helpful with my first stab at redoing a vehicle. I read through everything before I post and the beginning of my reply sounds a bit smartass"ish". That is not the case. Just trying to share and educate myself.
eh, my reply certainly came across as mega smartarse.... 
I know what it's supposed to do, it's the same principal as Rust Bullet.... Encapsiators have been around a long time... we where using it in the mid 90's in marine apps LONG before it became intraweb famous... it does slow progression down, but it will continue to rust and the POR15 will often be falling off in large sheets in a couple years.. 5x's faster if you don't topcoat it...
the first year or 2 your thinking, "this sh*t is great" cuz it's thick, covers well, and is hiding the growing disaster underneath well..
a better choice are converters, but even they have limitations.. at least it penetrates and converts the outer layer of rust to iron tannite... if the rust is thin enough a converter is viable.. Ospho makes a nice one... but if it's even moderately deep, it will continue on like POR15, etc..
now.. that was the political correct response.. here's the guy that started his career in a resto shop and eleventy hundred hr's on his projects and coating systems......
society beware.....
ALL OF THESE APPROACHES ARE FOR LAZY PEOPLE...REMOVE THE RUST AND IT WONT CONTINUE!
there I said it, lol.... media blasting, acid, mechanical... get rid of it...
that's why I call it snake oil.. it's like the mid 1800's scam artists selling a bottle of booze as "Dr Smith's Miracle Elixir of Wellness and Joy Joy"..... people looking for something too good to be true in a bottle...
can it be a viable, helpful product in some cases? sure....
is it as good as web myth would have you believe? not remotely..
I know what it's supposed to do, it's the same principal as Rust Bullet.... Encapsiators have been around a long time... we where using it in the mid 90's in marine apps LONG before it became intraweb famous... it does slow progression down, but it will continue to rust and the POR15 will often be falling off in large sheets in a couple years.. 5x's faster if you don't topcoat it...
the first year or 2 your thinking, "this sh*t is great" cuz it's thick, covers well, and is hiding the growing disaster underneath well..
a better choice are converters, but even they have limitations.. at least it penetrates and converts the outer layer of rust to iron tannite... if the rust is thin enough a converter is viable.. Ospho makes a nice one... but if it's even moderately deep, it will continue on like POR15, etc..
now.. that was the political correct response..
here's the guy that started his career in a resto shop and eleventy hundred hr's on his projects and coating systems...... society beware.....
ALL OF THESE APPROACHES ARE FOR LAZY PEOPLE...REMOVE THE RUST AND IT WONT CONTINUE!
there I said it, lol.... media blasting, acid, mechanical... get rid of it...
that's why I call it snake oil.. it's like the mid 1800's scam artists selling a bottle of booze as "Dr Smith's Miracle Elixir of Wellness and Joy Joy"..... people looking for something too good to be true in a bottle...
can it be a viable, helpful product in some cases? sure....
is it as good as web myth would have you believe? not remotely..
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
Thanks for answering but you can't exactly say it's for lazy ppl. To buy even a small can you definitely need a job. That stuff's higher than camel pu**y. I'm glad i chimed in on this bc I just bought another can. I'll be returning it. Lots of smart, experienced people on here. Thanks again
POR15 is literally dirt cheap... my chromabase basecoat on my K5 is $550 a gallon... 
not including clear, etc...
it was more a poke at doing things the right way... spending the time, and more importantly EFFORT, to try to do things right.. not just slather some sh*t on and pretend it's the best solution..
you have to understand where my work, builds come from, as most in here will attest to.... I'm all about the cleanest, raw steel, thru complete high end coating systems.. not slathering a bunch of rusto on a woods truck... anybody can douche a bunch of raw steel parts with rattlecan black and post pics of it looking good.. get back to me in 3, 4 years and we'll see how that chits holding up...
take that for what you will, all builds are not the same.. hack has it's place, but I offer the best solutions... your mileage may vary...
not including clear, etc...it was more a poke at doing things the right way... spending the time, and more importantly EFFORT, to try to do things right.. not just slather some sh*t on and pretend it's the best solution..
you have to understand where my work, builds come from, as most in here will attest to.... I'm all about the cleanest, raw steel, thru complete high end coating systems.. not slathering a bunch of rusto on a woods truck... anybody can douche a bunch of raw steel parts with rattlecan black and post pics of it looking good.. get back to me in 3, 4 years and we'll see how that chits holding up...
take that for what you will, all builds are not the same.. hack has it's place, but I offer the best solutions... your mileage may vary...
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
I guess there's an elitist for every topic.
oh, and hey... I'm not saying you shouldn't use it... I'm just saying that keep in the back of your brain that spending 9 hr's on a Saturday on your back with a wirewheel, sander, etc can prove very beneficial in the quality of your work... trust me, I spent a big portion of my life doing that kinda thing in a rock driveway with minimal tools.. an effort toward quality should never be discouraged... I know money is always an issue and big dollar products aren't always an option.. I fight that on every project.. but some sandpaper, elbow grease and sweat arer cheap.. and fulfilling to someone who strives to build good sh*t.. 
oh, and hey... I'm not saying you shouldn't use it... I'm just saying that keep in the back of your brain that spending 9 hr's on a Saturday on your back with a wirewheel, sander, etc can prove very beneficial in the quality of your work... trust me, I spent a big portion of my life doing that kinda thing in a rock driveway with minimal tools.. an effort toward quality should never be discouraged... I know money is always an issue and big dollar products aren't always an option.. I fight that on every project.. but some sandpaper, elbow grease and sweat arer cheap.. and fulfilling to someone who strives to build good sh*t..
what a waste of a post apparently...
Billyworld
I now know that i will never finish this truck.
Apparently
I was able to remove the surface rust with a wire wheel on my drill, I'm confident that I can just seal up the bare metal with some rattle can without using a converter. And when I get back from my deployment I can get the ol'girl a new set of skin put on
I've used it with success with proper prep. I've also had failure when (laziness) shortcuts were involved.
It will strip off in sheets if proper prep is not adhered to just like any other material.
I think I would follow ryoken's advice when doing paint/ prep work.
Sticky Sticky please.
It will strip off in sheets if proper prep is not adhered to just like any other material.
I think I would follow ryoken's advice when doing paint/ prep work.
Sticky Sticky please.
awesome..... just removing a big % of the rust put's you miles ahead for when ya get back..... stay safe!
He's not just messing with you. It really does fail and peel off in strips years down the road. I think the internet fanboys are just excited because when it's done, it looks 1000x better than the rust did. But don't get excited unless there is a long-term report added on. It's good for coating tie rods and suspension parts, but isn't for body work. You can paint your trailer with it and keep it in the barn 95% of the time and it will likely hold up as long as you need it to.
