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paint question

1BadK-30

1BadK-30

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im looking to strip my truck down this weekend and preping it for paint, this well be my first time and im wondering what color of primer to go with,

gray or black?

this is the paint color i want to come out with.

1.JPG
 
I use and enjoy a p2k2000​

its a high build and sands really nice :0​

tan in color and allows for some real nice coverage.
532757_520_full.jpg
 
i use K-36.. its the best primer i have ever used... its gray, and thats what i would use.
 
You want to use a light primer for lighter colors and dark primer for darker colors. For that dark of blue, I would use a black primer.
 
What the primer? Good luck getting anything to look like that out of a spray can. A gallon of DP-90 with catalyst was like $120 the last time I got some, but that was about 4 years ago.

Or you could just sand it down, finesse the areas that need it, prime any that show bare metal, and use a cheap single stage. A sealer/primer is best to use before spraying paint though. It will minimize the number of coats of paint needed to hide whats underneath and help the paint adhere better.
 
i plan on sanding it down all the way to baremetal and applying some dark primer. my dad says home depot rattle can primer well work just fine?
 
1BadK-30 said:
i plan on sanding it down all the way to baremetal and applying some dark primer. my dad says home depot rattle can primer well work just fine?
Click to expand...

I can hear him saying "I'm afraid your gonna get to much money into that old truck and will never get it out of it" too. Just ask him if he had to paint his car would he do it that way? If he says yes then say ok I am sorry dad I scraped the side of your car. But some home depot primer will cover it.
:haha:
 
I said something to my father (78 years old) about painting my truck and that was his response to me (I am 45).

The more prep you do the better the paint job will look. I painted a Harley with Dupli Color spray cans and primer then clear coated it four times. Much smaller but the one thing I have not seen anyone say is that primer helps the paint bond by sucking it into it. If you primer anything and it will be exposed to weather be sure to put a thin coat (called another name) of paint on it to keep moister out. For a dollar or two more buy automotive primer.

I have read the thread over three times now on painting with a roller and brush and am considering it. But will more that likely just go ahead and get Maaco to do it for the $1200.00
 
Not sure how involved I wanna get in this thread...

Epoxy primer can be left exposed to the weather indefinitely, lacquer primer is the one that is not waterproof... That being said, lacquer primer is dinosauric and no self-respecting bodyman will use it today... It's advantages, dirt cheap and a monkey can apply it..

To the original poster... You post a pic of a quality paint job, metallic no less, and then ask about rattlecan priming it? :confused:

Seems kinda silly considering you'll need a gun to lay out paint like that anyway, but are gonna jerk around with spraycan primer... which btw, you'll never get as quality a primer in a rattlecan that you'll get in a gallon... And as others mentioned, for a dark, midnight blue like that, black primer will keep paint quantity way done...

Do yourself a favor if your stripping it to steel, put a pisscoat of zinc chromate on it first.. Ya only need a little..

For black epoxy primer, I'd use some Glasurit 285-55 HS VOC Primer Filler... Or something similar to what Supersize uses and a couple coats of black sealer over it.. K-36 is nice stuff too...
 
hmmm, now i have a better look on this. I think im going to strip it down and apply some automotive epoxy primer. I do plan on getting the paint myself because id rather have a good paint and not some half ass job i could probaly do.


thanks for the replys guys
 
I always say over and over my personal experience with rust USE "ZERO RUST" it comes in rattle cans and quarts and works go to your auto paint supplier and ask about it. I used it on my truck with some stage 2 rust in the bed, no sanding just clean and dry and three coats voila no rust. The army uses it as primer now for the C.A.R.C.:bow:
 
85-m1028 said:
I always say over and over my personal experience with rust USE "ZERO RUST" it comes in rattle cans and quarts and works go to your auto paint supplier and ask about it. I used it on my truck with some stage 2 rust in the bed, no sanding just clean and dry and three coats voila no rust. The army uses it as primer now for the C.A.R.C.:bow:
Click to expand...

Not sure how this applies here... For a change, nowhere in this thread is rust mentioned...
 
Metrodps said:
I said something to my father (78 years old) about painting my truck and that was his response to me (I am 45).

The more prep you do the better the paint job will look. I painted a Harley with Dupli Color spray cans and primer then clear coated it four times. Much smaller but the one thing I have not seen anyone say is that primer helps the paint bond by sucking it into it. If you primer anything and it will be exposed to weather be sure to put a thin coat (called another name) of paint on it to keep moister out. For a dollar or two more buy automotive primer.

I have read the thread over three times now on painting with a roller and brush and am considering it. But will more that likely just go ahead and get Maaco to do it for the $1200.00
Click to expand...
Gotta side with this quote above.

As a graduate from a vocational school in automotive body technology, the most common and popular quote when doing any type of body repair and work is: Preparation is the name of the game.
 
85-m1028 said:
well in case you were wondering it is a primer, and it comes in black.
Click to expand...

But why would you use a product designed to be put over rust, to control it, or stop it when you have clean bare steel?

It's like people recommending the use of POR15 or Rust Bullett as a primer for bodywork... It's not the right way to do it.. heck, it's not even sandable from what I read.. Undercarriage or frame? sure, knock yourself out...

But you wont see any reputable bodyshop using it for paint prep.. You cant beat a zinc, epoxy, urethane combo for a longlasting paintjob..
 
ryoken said:
But why would you use a product designed to be put over rust, to control it, or stop it when you have clean bare steel?

It's like people recommending the use of POR15 or Rust Bullett as a primer for bodywork... It's not the right way to do it.. heck, it's not even sandable from what I read.. Undercarriage or frame? sure, knock yourself out...

But you wont see any reputable bodyshop using it for paint prep.. You cant beat a zinc, epoxy, urethane combo for a longlasting paintjob..
Click to expand...

I didn't say NOT SANDABLE I said NO SANDING meaning you do not have to remove rust for this product to work it has a rust converter so you can save a step or two in the preperation process. if your going to bare metal then this is good insurance against rust formation in the future. going to bare metal does not mean that I can just shoot a couple coats of joe primer and expect rust not to form under that pimer. Rust converter and durable primer all in one.

http://www.zero-rust.com/?OVRAW=zero%20rust&OVKEY=zero%20rust&OVMTC=standard

Zero-Rust routinely replaces epoxies, epoxy mastics, alkyd enamels and rust converter maintenance systems. Epoxies and epoxy mastics are used extensively for controlling corrosion perform better than Zero-Rust in underwater or submerged applications. However, Zero-Rust performs well in splash zones and remarkably outperforms epoxies in above marine environments. The drawback to epoxies and epoxy mastics are that they need to be mixed correctly, applied within specific time restriction, and cannot be retouched easily. Zero-Rust advantages include no time restrictions during application; no mixing of components, and Zero-Rust may be touched up at any time.
Zero-Rust is free of the normal carcinogens found in high performance epoxies and urethanes. Zero-Rust is the perfect rust protection system for the environmentally concerned and those concerned with improving application personnel health safety
 
85-m1028 said:
I didn't say NOT SANDABLE I said NO SANDING meaning you do not have to remove rust for this product to work it has a rust converter so you can save a step or two in the preperation process. if your going to bare metal then this is good insurance against rust formation in the future. going to bare metal does not mean that I can just shoot a couple coats of joe primer and expect rust not to form under that pimer. Rust converter and durable primer all in one.
Click to expand...

ok, looks like you wanna argue about this..

First off, never said you said, no sanding.. I said, "heck, it's not even sandable from what I read", refering to what it says on their website... Which means sanding the primer itself, not the substrate..

Second, anyone leaving any kind of surface rust on exterior panels to be painted is stupid... there's never an excuse to leave surface rust on a panel.. frame rail or undercarriage? sure.. Converting it on a hood is being lazy.. not to mention hack...

but anyway, you'll never convince me this product is better for bare steel than a quick metal condition, some zinc and epoxy primer... I'm certain that'd do a better job of rust prevention than any other method... I've looked at jobs I did over 20 yrs ago with that method and they still look good..

I'm really sick of all this hooplah for "miracles in a can".. I blame POR15... Most of these products work pretty well for their intended use, but in no way are they the best way to refinish... Great for lazy people... But wtf do I know, I've only painted 2000 cars....

If the person had asked about painting a frame or the like I would not be giving you an ounce of grief, but when I see this kinda stuff being pushed as a good bodywork primer it bugs me...

Oh, and no need to copy/paste from their site, I've read it... Epoxy primers are easily touched up.. granted dry times are much longer, but hey thats the price you pay for a quality CATILYZED product... That bottom paragraph just emphasizes how these products are designed for the lazy.... Oh my god, I've got to mix it!!! :eek1: :rolleyes: :eek1: :haha:
 
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