I see. I'll have to find some of that since none of the stuff I've found (Kragens, Oreilly's, etc) so far cuts very well. Although with my luck it's probably banned in CA.
the 3M superduty is pretty standard stuff.. should be able to find it most places from auto parts store to marine stores to autobody supply...
compounds and polishes are something of a black art... if it's white, it's basically what is called a clearcoat compound.. but those vary GREATLY... and none come close to the cut you get from a lacquer compound...
now, with that courseness, obviously comes more of a potential for swirling.... many amateurs can swirl the he!! out of a car with orange... but they can always be removed with polishes and glazes... I can do a car in orange and make it pretty swirl-free, but i've been buffing stuff for 30 yrs.. from the resto and collision shop to ion's of buffing boats...
thats why you need to do the blend panels with orange, that consistent courseness of orange.... clearcoat compounds just don't have that "bite" capability, and eventually you'll have clear peeling.. throw in the fact, that the clearcoat compounds vary greatly in how much petroleum is in the compound... thats why so many of them have a different look/feel to them... and varying buffing tendencies... whereas orange lacquer compounds are a very "dry" product, no petroleum...
the varying oil contents can also lead to contamination problems when used prior to painting, for obvious reasons... possible fisheye, etc...
they certainly have their place... detailing, etc... you just have to know what approach you want for a certain job, grit-wise... there are shortcuts to it all too... dragging a quickie cut of orange over something to get an innitial cut on it, knowing your gonna polish it out with some oily clearcoat compound, etc...
I use the heck out of superduty.. everything from polishing aluminum rims to wetsand/buffs of fresh paint.. I like to think i can do ANY polishing project with superduty, finesse it and a good carnuba wax...