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Panhard ideas and pics?

camok5

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I searched and I read the posts in the gravity forums but I still would like to see some pics of panhards on leaf spring trucks with crossover. My blazer is a daily driver and I have really soft deaver springs and a six inch lift. I am also going to inboard the shocks in the rear when I put my MOO anti wrap set up on so I know the blazer is only going to get more boat like and I want to try and regain some of its on road drivability back.
 
Don't inboard the rears. Keep the shocks out as much as possible(on top of the spring plates is good) and straight as you can, that will help a lot. I'd like to see pictures of peoples setups with panhards on a leaf spring setup. The only ones I can remember being posted were not well done at all. I'm still debating running a panhard when I setup my rig. I likely will not and just wait till i can afford the coilovers and 3 link it.
 
Your going to get less shock dampening which would only make the soft spring issue worse.
 
85mudblazin said:
Your going to get less shock dampening which would only make the soft spring issue worse.

Ding ding ding, when you inboard shocks you're reducing the length they travel vs. the length the suspension cycles. Think of putting your shocks right next to each other on top of the diff. pumpkin and you get the picture. In some cases it's the solution and in a lot it's not.

I would also like to see a well done panhard rod setup...so TTT for ya.
 
I realize that inboarding can make it worse but i have been bottoming out my shocks and need more travel plus I dont want to go through the body(takes up to much room inside). I do plan on running the MOO inboading set up so I can move my shocks a little closer to vertical but I might change that set up down the road if it does make it to spongy.
 
If you want to get rid of the boatyness of your blazer get some good shocks. My suspension is VERY soft without shocks, the point where its almost impossible to corner at speed, but with the high quality rebuildable mono tube shocks I have it drives very nice and corners very good.

As far as the panhard bar goes, you need the draglink and panhard bar to be the same length both mounted on the same angle. If not it wont work, and this probably means that your going to need to run a draglink to the tierod or something of that nature.
 
I agree that I need better shocks, right now I am running rancho adjustables but plan on switching to the bilstein 5150's or maybe the mx6 resevoirs but I dont know much about them. I understand how my panhard needs to work but would still like to see some pics of how people have mounted them, all the ones I have seen were not set up right.
 
I dont think ORD has any pictures of the setup they used to run on Wally. You could look on www.race-dezert.com and get some ideas from there, but I have been looking and there isnt too much info the the panhard setup. There is also a thread in teh Center of Gravity forum concerning this topic and I havent checked it lately to see if there was any pictures in there.

As far as shocks stick with the Bilstiens or go with a 2" Sway Away, Fox or King. That way you can tailor the valving for you truck and really make those deavers work the way they are supposed to.
 
Any reason for going with the bilstiens over the mx6 because cost is a little bit of an issue and I cant afford Fox or Sway Aways.
 
thumb015.htm

More here:

panhard on wally in past years

It tends to bind the springs up and will do very little for your cornering but will tighten up the steering and take care of the bumpsteer. My panhard was a little too short and I could tell in a certain circumstances. It was still way better than without it.
 
From what I undersand is the Mx6 is really just a gimic, spend the money and get bilstiens. Its better to wait awhile longer and buy good shocks then have to buy shocks twice cause you bought crappy ones.

Those are good pictures Stephen, I was wondering if you have any of them. I think when I build my new frame for my blazer im going to either run a modified factory setup, or go with a panhard bar and leafs.
 
Ideally the panhard and draglink are the same length and are parallel as viewed both from the top and the front.

That isn't to say that something else won't work. If they can't be in the ideal arrangement then want you need is for the two arcs to be "complimentary" thru the suspension's range of motion. In other words, you want the two different arcs to lay right on top of each other as best as possible. There will be a "Sweet spot" range where they mimic each other and outside of that range they will pull away from each other. You want the range to start a little below ride height and to be mostly above ride height. This will minimize the effects of the bumpsteer.
 
I would love to see more pics of wally's steering if anyone has any and has anyone run a panhard and high steer. I want to see where your mounting points are.
 
There's some pretty good shots in the custom rigs section of our page, just imagine your pitman arm where my idler arm is and you'll be able to get it put together. I doubt mine would work with leaves though. The pics I posted before are about as good as it gets with leaves and a panhard. The only thing I would do different is stick the driver's side of the panhard outboard of the frame rail a few more inches to make it closer to the draglink length.

Jason, (zcar) if you're building a frame, DO NOT stick with the leaves. I know what you want and it's not leaf springs. Go to coils. I have some ideas on ways to make leaves work well for long travel systems with panhard bars and by the time you're done with the monkey motion you might as well 4 link it or run some radius arms. The only reason to keep the leaves on a high level fabricated vehicle is for the rules. If you want to race class 3, we should talk about some different ideas using leaves, otherwise, join the round spring crowd.
 
After looking at the pictures of wally I think I could do a similiar set up but I would not be able to run high steer( to much stuff in the way) without more modification then I could handle. Because I run an ORD crossover draglink with the bend would I use a straight line to measure it to match the panhard bar and would ORD or somebody else be able to make a panhard bar for me if I made the mounts?
 
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