CK5
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Parking brake set ups?

What park brake set up are you running?

  • Standard Park Brake Drum

    Votes: 19 36.5%
  • Standard park brake Rear Disk

    Votes: 7 13.5%
  • Lever Lock

    Votes: 1 1.9%
  • Roll control style line lock

    Votes: 1 1.9%
  • None I am Running NEKKID!

    Votes: 24 46.2%

  • Total voters
    52
drivelineman said:
Picture20524.jpg

I run my t-case e-brake -JEss

Well, yeah... of course you're running your own parts, Jess! :D

I'll be running your parts, too (once I get my tax refund).
 
JEBSR said:
The mechanical type just means that you turn them on and off by hand (mechanically). Will not disengage until you manually turn it off or depress the pedal again, depending on what style you use.

Electric type just basically uses an electromagnet to push/pull the plunger to activate it. Only problem with these is that as long as it is applied it draws power from the battery. If used to long the battery will die and the line lock will release.

You depress the brakes and activate the line lock then let off the pedal. This keeps the fluid from returning back thru the lines into the m/c causing the brakes to remain locked.

Thanks, good info!
 
Missing one bit though.

There are two distinct types of electrically operated p-brake valves.
The first is the common drag racing oriented "Line Lock" where power is needed to hold the valve closed. These are obviously short term only since they draw some considerable battery power to keep the brakes locked.

The second is most often the Mico Lock where power is only used to hold the valve closed while setting the 'brake', the difference in line pressures (B4 the valve and after it) hold it closed. Stepping on the brake pedal releases this second type of valve. These aren't as easy to find, but are or used to be common on tow trucks.

The Jamar "Park-Loc"s are common in sand buggies and have a generally poor reputation on the air cooled VW forums. These work similarly to the Mico's, only you push a knob down instead of activating a solenoid.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Factory rear eldo calipers and hooked up and working. :thumb:

how well do those work? ive got a pair of caddy's that im going to put on my 14b. from ppl ive talked to they said it didnt work that well, maybe their linkage was not tight
 
muddybuddy said:
how well do those work? ive got a pair of caddy's that im going to put on my 14b. from ppl ive talked to they said it didnt work that well, maybe their linkage was not tight

I have known two people that have had the caddy calipers and neither really likes them despite tons of fiddling with them. One has switched to a t-case emergency brake.
 
ntsqd said:
These are obviously short term only since they draw some considerable battery power to keep the brakes locked.

Mine (electric roll control/line lock) uses a 5 amp fuse which means it probably only draws 2-3 amps which doesn't seem like all that much to me :dunno:

Of course, I have never left mine on overnight.
 
38377k5 said:
I have known two people that have had the caddy calipers and neither really likes them despite tons of fiddling with them. One has switched to a t-case emergency brake.

i guess that would work for safty inspections right? ive considered going that route if im not satisfied with the caddys, cuz i need an e-brake
 
I've got the caddy calipers too and the ebrake works just fine. You do have to use it every once in a while to keep it adjusted properly.
 
bp71k5 said:
I've got the caddy calipers too and the ebrake works just fine. You do have to use it every once in a while to keep it adjusted properly.

shouldn't be so hard. when i had a working ebrake, i had a pretty good habit of using it every time i parked.
 
38377k5 said:
Mine (electric roll control/line lock) uses a 5 amp fuse which means it probably only draws 2-3 amps which doesn't seem like all that much to me :dunno:

Of course, I have never left mine on overnight.
To be long term (overnight or longer) it'd have to be in the milliamp range of power draws.

Whether the actual e-brake part of the Cad caliper functions well or not I can't say. I've never seen one that didn't have service brake problems. From what I've learned here the e-brake must be in adjustment for the service brake to work right. I have two mechanically gifted friends who tried them and eventually give up. One took his apart & figured out why they misbehaved, and fixed them. He gave up b/c it was an on-going battle to keep them self adjusting. The adjusting mechanism in the calipers was always trying to seize. The smaller rotor and small piston caliper system he went to (Exploder) actually stops the truck better than the Cad stuff did b/c the Cad stuff was never right. And the rotor hat drum type p-brake works better too!

From a pure functionallity point of view a disc brake as a p-brake is a disc brake in the wrong application. The greater surface area of a drum, combined with it's self-energizing ability make it a far, far better parking brake. Take a look at current 4 wheel disc cars. It is a very rare one that doesn't have the drum in the rear rotor hat type p-brake. To the best of my knowledge the European mfgs have never used anything but this type of p-brake design.

Hydro-mechanical calipers are a bad idea.
 
bp71k5 said:
I've got the caddy calipers too and the ebrake works just fine. You do have to use it every once in a while to keep it adjusted properly.

yea when i have a ebrake i always use it to park.
 
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