Parts price comparison

[woodchk502]

So I am needing to replace some steering and brake components (all oem type) on my old girl, and started looking into some options and am a bit curious about the price on similar/same parts. I am guessing many of these components come from a few different suppliers, the difference in cost is related to:

#1 Beef of the component, and by beef I mean, type of material used in construction, and design of the component for strength above and beyond the minimum required to do the job it is intended

#2 Quality of manufacture this being the components actual tolerances once complete. Tighter tolerance equals higher costs for the part.

#3 Overhead of the company selling the component.

The above being said, I am curious about how much these can affect the actual cost. My example being the below, and please correct me if I am wrong

I started by looking at the box stores that are close to me and I find Advance Auto has a Moog pitman arm (K6131) for $104.99, so I decided to check Rock Auto...... Moog pitman arm (K6131) $49.99. That's a huge difference, I understand I can drive to AA and pick it up today and have to wait a couple of days for Rock part to get here. Then I start thinking hmmmm, everyone is using Amazon for everything now days, so I check there and come across a Parts Master Pitman arm (K6131) for $14.58. So now I am curious if this could be the same part as the Moog, just in a different box...... Or a the same part purchased by a company requiring less tolerance to suit their definition of quality, but still being a completely competent component. I do know that this is a huge difference in price no matter what the answer is. Thoughts???

I only ask because it is a big difference in price, and I worked 13yrs for a tier one supplier to GM and Chrysler that used to manufacture driveline components, and at least one of the big box stores would purchase all of our scrap U-joints, sort them, and then box and sell as new some of the joints that were out of the tolerance we had to hold. But as anyone in manufacturing knows, the tolerance of the guy machining the part is tighter than the actual tolerance needed by the company that is doing the purchasing or final assembly

 

[Blue85]

I think the "more generic" a brand is, the more variation there is from month to month, as they are probably getting things from different suppliers or buying up different kinds of "spills" as you noted above. I commonly warranty parts out at Autozone and the replacement is not like the old one, even though they carry the same number (as the converse, they sometimes change part numbers for no known reason but to throw you off the warranty trail, but that's another topic).

The margins are all over the place on car parts. One item might be 100% markup, while another is 3%. In some cases you are paying for warranty at the local retail - and of course you're paying for their retail outlet. But it's much better returning parts locally.

You haven't found any "deal" on RockAuto until the shipping price is factored in. They love making you pay separate shipping on every part you order because of their warehouse structure. The big deals on RockAuto are the closeout buys, but they won't always have what you need when you need it.

I also keep buying parts off Amazon because the price ends up pretty close to RockAuto, then free shipping makes it like 25% better.

 

[woodchk502]

You haven't found any "deal" on RockAuto until the shipping price is factored in. They love making you pay separate shipping on every part you order because of their warehouse structure. The big deals on RockAuto are the closeout buys, but they won't always have what you need when you need it.

I also keep buying parts off Amazon because the price ends up pretty close to RockAuto, then free shipping makes it like 25% better.

Ahhh HA..... I forgot about this part. Its been a while since I ordered from RA. And as for Amazon, if it is Prime ship applicable it get even better than the 25%.

 

[Stomis]

You do not want to go with the lowest quality for a steering part IMO. In fact I dont even recommend moog unless you can get a good price on it. They seem to want an inflated amount simply to meet the manufacturing standards the vehicle came with. Generally brands like Raybestos and Spicer are better than the Moog stuff and cheaper if you source it right.


You're not going to beat rock auto 99% of the time. They form their inventory by purchasing up large lot items of no longer stocked items, store closings, warehouse closing, downsizings etc. So if advance decides they arent going to stock a pitman arm for an 87 chevy truck anymore and their warehouse is full Rock auto will sweep in and basically buy them out for way under cost. Thats how the prices get so damn low.

 

[dyeager535]

One thing to note with parts is that often at least a portion of the part number may be the same between manufacturers, even though they aren't made by the same folks.

I'm becoming increasingly cynical of parts quality anymore, even the Spicer ball joints I got three years back had a metal chip on the joint, leftover from machining. Most Delco stuff I've seen as of late is Chinese.

If the part isn't a real pain to replace (ball joints, fuel pump), I'm inclined to go with chain auto parts store stuff with warranty. Sometimes you get junk, but so far, other than the "anchor" brand motor mounts that were junk, stuff like my starter and rotors have been good.

 

[76zimmer]

I know GM has spent millions fighting counterfeit parts there is no patent protection or a foolproof way to stop the onslaught of Chinese crap being labeled as genuine stuff
I heard Moog is mostly china made stuff of lesser quality than what they're known for in the past!

 

[dyeager535]

Had not thought of counterfeit parts for our trucks, but I know there are even counterfeit oil filters out there now, so it makes sense.

Delco is actually having their stuff made in China, AFAIK it's not counterfeit, we as a nation are just too cheap to pay the price for superior products, so manufacturers are forced to ship labor overseas to compete.

 

[diesel4me]

The last AC oil filter I bought has "Hench En Mexico" printed on the box..
Probably old stock,because I've seen ones with "Made In China" on them too..

I run Champ filters now,or WIX,only others I trust are some Purolator ones..

I've seen many sets of Moog ball joints fail rapidly in Dodge trucks,that my friend installed less than 15K miles on them...

I suspect now many companies that once had good reputations for quality parts have either been taken over or consolidated with other brands,and once they are under new ownership,they start putting lower quality parts in the "good brands" boxes and charge double the cost of "generic" cheap parts,but in fact the ones they sell often ARE the same generic ones..your paying for the "name" more so than the quality...remember Callahan brakes in "Tommy Boy" ?..

I tend to just buy the cheapest parts now,knowing chances are good they are probably no worse than "OEM" or brand name stuff nowadays..

 

[campfire]

I've seen many sets of Moog ball joints fail rapidly in Dodge trucks,that my friend installed less than 15K miles on them...

I suspect now many companies that once had good reputations for quality parts have either been taken over or consolidated with other brands,and once they are under new ownership,they start putting lower quality parts in the "good brands" boxes and charge double the cost of "generic" cheap parts,but in fact the ones they sell often ARE the same generic ones..your paying for the "name" more so than the quality...remember Callahan brakes in "Tommy Boy" ?..

I tend to just buy the cheapest parts now,knowing chances are good they are probably no worse than "OEM" or brand name stuff nowadays..

I've seen a wide range in parts quality, too. Since I plan to keep my truck far longer than a "normal" consumer would, I often buy warrantied parts when buying from my local parts houses. Not because I think they're better (they hand me the same box in some cases), but because I know I'm far more likely to use it than their actuaries think I am. For Big Blue, it took 6 junky (warrantied!) starters to get one that would last more than a few months. For the Suburban, it only took one try.

Given that I expect the junk to fail, paying the warranty charge has made good sense so far.

But I would much rather have ready access to good, dependable parts. I'm tired of carrying my 13MM and 15MM sockets in the front seat (like the starter failures, multiple recent alternator failures have me reevaluating my use of Autozone and the like). One advantage to using retail stores is that it's much easier to return items. And occasionally I get to talk to someone who knows his stuff (not particularly often, but it has bailed me out a few times).

 

[diesel4me]

I've bought quite a few salvage yard starters and alternators over the years,and had very good luck with them...most were rebuilts that appeared to have just been installed shortly before the vehicle was junked,still had the stickers on them !..

I look for Delco rebuilts ,or OEM ones,and avoid any from Autozone or Pep Boys,which seem to have a high failure rate..or simply choose an "original equipment" one that looks to be in decent shape..usually if your going to have trouble with a used starter or alternator,you'll know right away,and the have a 30 day warranty usually,some yards offer 90 days on some parts..

When a 6.2 starter costs 150+ bucks at a store,and you can get a recently installed gear reduction one at a salvage yard for 35 bucks or so,which would you go for ?..especially if you wanted to upgrade from a "direct drive" style..

I have chosen to rebuild my own starters and alternators too,rather than buy a "store brand" rebuilt one...its simple to toss in a set of brushes and a diode trio in an old GM 10-SI,and the starters rarely need more than a solenoid and brushes,I have had more starter drives croak than anything else--they refuse to turn the engine when it gets cold out,the starter just spins..

Lately on my visits to junkyards,I see a lot of recently replaced parts on vehicles,and I would not be afraid to buy them at 1/2 the store cost or less--I got a like new drag link for one of my trucks ,still had the stickers on it,for 15 bucks--both ends and sleeve looked brand new!..

I may go back and see what I can buy a OEM inner fender for,seeing the cheap "fitwell" ones parts stores now sell are 50+ bucks!--I bet I can get one for 20 or less ,and it'll FIT and be twice as thick as an aftermarket one..
If I came across an entire nose cheap,I'd just buy it and swap the whole thing on..

I feel bad when I see a lot of perfectly useable parts left to rot in a junkyard...
I think a lot of people get pissed after spending a lot of money trying to fix a vehicle,then end up junking it,judging by the amount of "nearly new" parts I see in salvage yards..

 

[campfire]

I feel bad when I see a lot of perfectly useable parts left to rot in a junkyard...
I think a lot of people get pissed after spending a lot of money trying to fix a vehicle,then end up junking it,judging by the amount of "nearly new" parts I see in salvage yards..

Yeah. The junkyard is full of 95% completed projects. Just a few bolts away from completion, then something breaks. Sometimes just a minor little thing. But enough to wear out a frustrated owner. And off to the yard it goes.

 

[dyeager535]

I think part of our problem with parts store stuff is that people are warrantying stuff that isn't bad. Electrical components like starter, alternator, and batteries are ones that people just don't understand what they are doing, and since we've gone to throw parts at a problem vs. diagnosis, all consumers end up paying the price.

I wonder what batteries would cost if warranty returns weren't factored into the price.

 

[campfire]

I think part of our problem with parts store stuff is that people are warrantying stuff that isn't bad. Electrical components like starter, alternator, and batteries are ones that people just don't understand what they are doing, and since we've gone to throw parts at a problem vs. diagnosis, all consumers end up paying the price.

I wonder what batteries would cost if warranty returns weren't factored into the price.

I try to avoid returning parts frivolously, but when I'm not able to coax life out of them anymore, I'm not able to continue running them...

I would tend to ask them why they're selling me parts that just barely work when I buy them. None of the "bad" motors lasted longer than a single oil change.

 

[diesel4me]

As a former parts counterman,I agree 100%...too many "backyard mechanics" who fail to properly diagnose a problem,instead of buying and throwing on parts that don't "fix" it (or it seems too,temporarily),were a constant source of irritation for guys in my shoes..

Things like starters & alternators and other electrical items like ignition modules ,etc,that are purchased,often ended up being slammed on the counter a day or two later,with an angry customer demanding a refund,when its the wiring or other "defects" that were the cause..not the parts!..

Batteries often came back "defective" ,then the customer comes back 2 days later again with another dead battery--and then finds out the vehicle wasn't charging...we only "warranteed" one battery--told customers it was very unlikely for two "bad" batteries in a row to croak in the same manner..
Often I'd go out in the parking lot and put the tester on the car,and see it was not charging..(or something was staying on all night like a trunk light,and draining the battery)...


Things have changed a lot since I worked a parts counter--it used to be a strict "No Returns On Electrical Parts" policy,the only exceptions were if you bought several parts at once and you never took one out of the box--like when someone would buy a starter,battery cables,and a battery,and found out the starter WAS the problem--as long as the other parts were never installed or plugged in,they could be returned--otherwise it was a battle between the customer,the counterman,and his bosses...

Nowadays it seems Autozone and other parts stores will take just about any part back and give a refund...not sure if thats just to keep customers coming back--or if there really IS that much "junk" being sold made in various forigen countries being sold today..not that I'm complaining--I brought back a set of completely rotted AC glow plugs a few years ago,that were only 3 years old and some already failed--I was given a new set of 8 free of charge....back in the day,they would have said "too bad !"..and charged me for another set...

 

[dyeager535]

Yeah, the last brake pads I returned they didn't even want the old ones back. It was funny, my receipt was dated 1995.

 

[diesel4me]

Not bragging,but I haven't had to buy a master cylinder for my pickups since 1990 something,when I bought an Autozone one with "lifetime warranty"..

The last one I put on my '82 GMC was the same one as my '79 Bonanza had ,that was the truck I originally bought one for..that one failed to work after I sold the truck to a guy I knew--I called Autozone and tell them it died,and got a replacement free...that was probably 5 years ago..

When the one on my '82 started leaking fluid from the rear of it,I called again,they had to order one in this time...and when I went to pay the girl at the register for a lower radiator hose I had ordered also,she rings it up,and handed me 10 bucks back !..I said "I know the master cylinder is a "free" replacement,but I must owe you ten bucks for the hose "..

The manager came over and looked over the sales slip and said "No,she's right--the master cylinder was 23.99 last time you got one--it's now 13.99 for the same one !..and you get 10 bucks back for bringing a core in too..so we owe YOU ten bucks..

Years ago if that was the case,we as countermen, were told to never let on to the customer that the store was going to "make money",and just give the customer the part and say nothing about the "change" we would have owed them..

Dishonest maybe?...but it was standard practice back then--also if a part came back as "the wrong one",and the customer was a dink about it ,blaming the counterman instead of himself for giving the wrong info or failing to know the engine was swapped--the "right" part always costed more--even if it was less in reality!...we could easily "adjust" the price in the computer,according to the customers attitude!.....call me a moron eh?..ZING!