Passenger door on my 72 has to be slammed to shut...

[76k5blazerr]

Looking for advice as to how to get my passenger door shutting better. It lines up pretty good with the rest of the body but you have to slam it pretty hard to get it shut completely. Is this problem most likely something in the hinges or could I adjust the strike plate on the door jamb? I hope I can just adjust that strike plate, if so, where should I start? Thanks

 

[Phil513]

Does the latch post have that bushing on it? I had to slam mine (although it's an 88) until I replaced that bushing, now it shuts really easily.

 

[K85 Octane]

The latch and striker for the 72 is 200% different than that '88 There is no bushing on it either, which is a great fix for the square bodies.

Sounds like the weather stripping is new or at least is great shape. If the latch operates smoothly and doesn't BANG into itself (check the top of the latch for grooved wear mark) than I say you need to adjust the door or the pinch weld that the weather stripping holds to.

If the door gaps are good and it is flush with the outside of the cab (meaning, not pushed in farther than it should be) than I suspect the pinch weld. Watch the door close from inside the cab and see where the weather stripping is compressed the most. That's where you'll need to push the pinch weld in more, away from the door. Most often it's the floor (from abuse) or near the dash that's the tightest.

PS> a door that is flush with the front fender isn't always correct as the fender can be changed. It's tough to line that up properly. I have no tips for that LOL

 

[76k5blazerr]

The latch and striker for the 72 is 200% different than that '88 There is no bushing on it either, which is a great fix for the square bodies.

Sounds like the weather stripping is new or at least is great shape. If the latch operates smoothly and doesn't BANG into itself (check the top of the latch for grooved wear mark) than I say you need to adjust the door or the pinch weld that the weather stripping holds to.

If the door gaps are good and it is flush with the outside of the cab (meaning, not pushed in farther than it should be) than I suspect the pinch weld. Watch the door close from inside the cab and see where the weather stripping is compressed the most. That's where you'll need to push the pinch weld in more, away from the door. Most often it's the floor (from abuse) or near the dash that's the tightest.

PS> a door that is flush with the front fender isn't always correct as the fender can be changed. It's tough to line that up properly. I have no tips for that LOL

The latch does seem to operate pretty smoothly, you just have to slam the door, there doesn't seem to be any metal on metal banging when you shut it, I hadn't thought about the weather stripping causing the problem but I will check that today when I get home. You say just bend the pinch weld inward to correct it? The weather strip is pretty new I think, though I didn't put it in. The door does shut pretty flush with the body and the gaps are good but it does rub ever so slightly at the forward edge of the door, right above the lower trim, rubs the fender when you open and shut at a certain point. Maybe I will have to adjust the hinges...

 

[6872xtc]

I am late helping here, but you merely need to move the latch plate outward slightly on the door jamb.
It has probably been bumped over the years, or someone moved it in, then it got new seals.

Go easy ,as it only takes a small amount of moving it to find the sweet spot.
And make sure the plate is on line with the latch and not rubbing on the top of the latch.
The plate is most likely in just a little too far to get the 2nd click without slamming the door.

 

[Bent77]

I had this problem on a 72 k5 once. It's better now