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Passenger side wheel angles out after ball joint replacement. (Solved, post 29)

Correct me if im wrong, But the "preloader" it the top balljoint, would cause +/- caster if screwed further in our out. Why wouldn't it? Screw it in= more caster Screw it out = less. Makes sense to me cause of this,
 

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Correct me if im wrong, But the "preloader" it the top balljoint, would cause +/- caster if screwed further in our out. Why wouldn't it? Screw it in= more caster Screw it out = less. Makes sense to me cause of this,

The preload sleeve IS NOT ECCENTRIC. All this sleeve does is applies the proper amount of preload to the ball joint when torqued to the proped value (70 ft/lbs IIRC).

Also if the sleeve was eccentric is would change CAMBER not CASTER.
 
I realize that its not eccentric, but being that the upper BJ is further inboard and not straight up and down, (emphases on the not straight up and down part, then screwing that in or out would move the upper BJ(ever so slightly) further in/outboard. Right? Or am i high?

Also i meant camber... My bad.
 
I realize that its not eccentric, but being that the upper BJ is further inboard and not straight up and down, (emphases on the not straight up and down part, then screwing that in or out would move the upper BJ(ever so slightly) further in/outboard. Right? Or am i high?

Also i meant camber... My bad.

I now understand what you mean but if you were to loosen the preload adjuster then the ball joint would be too loose and the wheel could sit crooked BUT it is not that it changes camber as it would just be loose and doing whatever it wanted at that point.
 
This shot also shows what my orange painting shows,

tube.jpg
 
Mitch, if you look at that pic of the knuckle you'll notice that the bores for the ball joints are still in alignment (straight line with each other). That won't kick the tire in or out.
 
Ok, just fixed the problem. Looks like my axle did have a shim on that side, and I just thought it was some sort of spacer ring - not realizing it was tapered. It was up-side-down, with the narrow side of the shim pointing down instead of up. I switched it around and have a straight wheel. :) Thanks, all!
 
Ok, just fixed the problem. Looks like my axle did have a shim on that side, and I just thought it was some sort of spacer ring - not realizing it was tapered. It was up-side-down, with the narrow side of the shim pointing down instead of up. I switched it around and have a straight wheel. :) Thanks, all!

another problem solved by ck5 :bow:
 
I imagine it's bent, thus the shim. I don't really care. It has worked great for the last couple years. I'm planning on swapping in a dana 60 in the fall/winter anyway.
 
good you got it good now.guess it doesnt matter if its bent if its getting replaced.crazy how you never saw the spacer before now.i guess maybe you never had to replace a shaft yet?i thought you had your truckj a few years now.good driving habbits go long way.ive had mine for 10 years and am just now needing to replace my shafts.but ive been through like 10 sets of bearings and a couple hubs so i know i dont have the spacer deal.my wheels are strait but mine is only i year older than yours so i huess ive been lucky and not bent anything on the front ed yet from what i can tell.maybe that one was in from stock if it was of a lil bit and they just added it to not have to replace a whole axle.either way its 3+ years old so anythings posible.
 
well, I think last time I had the knuckle off, the spacer stuck to the knuckle so I didn't notice it. :) This time it popped free and I put in on 180* wrong. :D
 
well, I think last time I had the knuckle off, the spacer stuck to the knuckle so I didn't notice it. :) This time it popped free and I put in on 180* wrong. :D
at least its good.now it wont wear out your tires uneven until you get that 60 under there.its always the small details that getcha.
 
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