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paying to instal gears in my 14bff

mightywhitey_k5

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can anyone give me a good estiment on how much i chould how much should i expect to pay to have a ring, pinion, and detroit instaled labor only. any ball park figure would be great. i have gotten a estiment and the guy wanted 900 for labor no parts, I just about $#!* a brick.:crazy:
 
I paid $675 labor for my front 10 bolt to be regeared...that was 9 hours at $75 an hour...maybe that helps...oh and I didn't shop around, my truck was towed to this place so the guy knew he could rape me if he wanted...
 
900 seems high. i'd say 4-600$ range is fair. i know i was qouted 375 rear and 425 front(f/r 10b) from 4wpw.
 
A ff14 gear install is a snap. I'd do it for $200 no problem. Just remember when you shop around that you not only want a fair price of $200-$400, but you want someone who will install them properly. Also, I would recommend using new bolts on the main caps when you put it back together.
 
I paid 325 for mine and that was welding on new spring perches as well. But the axle was fully stripped, except gears and took it and dropped it off in the back of my Jeep.
 
Holy Jebus batman, some of these prices are outrageous!!!! I would say $200 isn't bad but a hair high... Talked with a Richmond Rep once and he said if the installer knows what they are doing, it should only take them about 20-30 mins to set-up the gears.
 
I did mine and they are easy to do, all you need is a dial indicator and normal hand tools, I didnt know how to do it and it still runs fine today :)
I think the hardest part was the crush sleave. takes around 500 lbs of force to get it set.
 
85mudblazin said:
I did mine and they are easy to do, all you need is a dial indicator and normal hand tools, I didnt know how to do it and it still runs fine today :)
I think the hardest part was the crush sleave. takes around 500 lbs of force to get it set.

Technically you *should* use a pinion depth checking tool also, but my brother used the same method as you and came up with great results.

One tips I have seen on the crush sleeve is to put it in a press and tighten down on it to right when it crushes a hair^. Then install it and it will be easier to crush.

^- Hair: Precise technical measurement. :rotfl: :thumb:
 
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how about the bearings? I tried to regear my truck and it seems like the bearings needed to be machine pressed.
 
riggz said:
how about the bearings? I tried to regear my truck and it seems like the bearings needed to be machine pressed.

14FF doesn't use shims to set backlash at all, no reason to remove the diff bearings unless you feel the need to replace them.

I typically sell a master overhaul kit to install gears in a 14FF though, I feel it is a good idea to replace them when you re-gear to avoid future problems.
 
hay thanks for all the feedvack fellas. now i am contimplating on doin them myself. ill do some more reasearch first.
 
you dont HAVE to have the bearings machine pressed on, of you are very careful you can use a brass drift and tap them on till they sit flush, at least thats the way I did mine :D
 
Zach,

What ratio are you going with?
If you want a 3.73 or 4.10, I can get you a complete setup- ready to drop in your housing. Yoke, pinion gear with housing and shim, ring gear and carrier...Plug and play!
Call me.
 
just FYI all housing are going to be a lil different so there is no such thing as put in and drive off. :)
 
FYI, I know all housings are going to be slightly different but after performing this swap on 4 different 14BFFers, I am confindent in saying this is "put in and drive off". On the first couple, I checked the pinion depth and pattern and they were right on. As far as the backlash, you are forced to set this every time you remove the 14BFF carrier...which is almost braindead to reset.
 
cool Todd thanks for the info ill give u a call in the near future to see if you got your money for the t case and ask about these R and P set ups
 

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