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81jimmyslt

81jimmyslt

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 5, 2003
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Location
So Lake Tahoe (Rubicon), CA
I'm getting ready to set up my Hydro assist setup and have read lots of technical information on different setups and cylinders. I want to know more from each of you that have a setup, what your specs and any problems associated with your setup. If you have purchased a kit let us know what you think. Also can you list what kind of ends you have on you cylinder. Oh and list the price too.

Cylinder: 1.5" bore 8" stroke cylinder (brand unknown, Northern Tool only has 2" bore cylinders)
Hoses/fittings: buy locally 2@ 1/4 4' (what pressure? 2500 running....burst?)
Steering box: Did you tap it? Where? Any interference? (I plan on running EMS caps) yes iv'e seen the ramcharger site, but I want to see yours or hear how it went.
p/s pump mods: any? (I found a thread about drilling out the bore slightly larger)
crossover/highsteer: crossover
tie rod setup: stock d60 (I hear it won't last long :D ) (is it clamped or welded?)
Problems: I've heard of many people over stressing their p/s pump, bent tie rods, leaky cylinders, etc.

Any pictures or other input is greatly appreciated.

Cylinder:
Hoses/fittings:
Steering box:
p/s pump mods:
crossover/highsteer:
tie rod setup:
Problems:

copy and paste :D

Thanks
Jesse
 
Cylinder: Rocklogic 1.5x8" heims on each end, shaft is bigger then the WTO ram.
Hoses/fittings:I had bought the rocklogic kit but im not real happy about the lines. They are 2 short for the amount of droop I have, and dont have 90* fittings at the steering box so they stick out and get into the tire easily. They are also small at 1/4" and the fittings are small at AN-4. I ended up buying new hoses and fitting from WTO, the hoses are 3/8 I believe and the fitting are all AN-6. They are also about 1' longer then the rocklogic lines.
Steering box:I tapped my own box
p/s pump mods: none
crossover/highsteer:Crossover
tie rod setup:1 1/4" Chromo, when I hit the steering stops there is still a little left in the box/ram so it just slightly bows the tie rod, but it being Chromo it just springs right back.
Problems: Woops I guess I already covered them all :p:

Here some pics, These are the rocklogic hoses, you can see how the stick out from the box. I started putting on the new lines/fittings last night but havent got a picture yet.
100_1087.sized.jpg

100_1089.sized.jpg

100_1090.sized.jpg
 
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Cylinder: 1.5 x 8 PSC w/hiems
Hoses/fittings: 1/4" NPT on box, -6AN on lines/ram
Steering box: stock 2wd with EMS front cap/homemade top cap
p/s pump mods: none
crossover/highsteer: x-over
tie rod setup: sleaved dodge rod (same as 1.5" .250 wall)
Problems: pretty slow at idle but just fine above 1100RPM (problem with using stock pump), not putting the heims on the same plane casues ram to kick/twist a little
Comments: The EMS front cap is worth it, the PSC ram is a little "not that special" I would try and use a cheapo ram with new seals for my next one.

Pics

I wanted the ram higher than the tie rod so I wouldn't be very likely to damage it.
14536MVC-719F.JPG


Keeping the ram high caused the heims to be 90° off
14536MVC-721F.JPG


The EMS cap allows you to keep the lines away from the tire
14536MVC-720F.JPG
 
Cylinder: 2" bore 8" stroke tractor tie rod ram
Hoses/fittings: Custom made 1/4" hoses. Would have gone 3/8's but nobody in town had the fittings and I didn't want to wait.
Steering box: Drilled and tapped my own.
p/s pump mods: None
crossover/highsteer: ORD crossover
tie rod setup: ORD 1.5" OD tie rod with a weld on tab. Bends slightly when I max out the ram and the
Problems: Need to adjust the steering stops a little but none otherwise. You've gotta use a little muscle on the street since it's a touch slow but nothing worth possibly grenading my pump for.

EDIT: Just saw your price list request....
Tap: somewhere around $10
Hoses: $50, don't ask, it was a Saturday and I needed them badly
Ram: $55
Crossover: $400
Tie Rod: $115
Diff Ring and T.R. Tab: ~ $75
Total in my steering components: around $700

A picture:

7d6823a4.jpg
 
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I got Matt at WTO to do mine a LONG time ago. 2" Ram and we went through an R&D process with several steering boxes to work out a way to keep the lines on top and out of my tires but still working right. The "original" design did not work for me due taps on the side interfering with my 4" lift and 42" tires on 8" wide wheels with 4.25" b.s (net result: my tires are much closer to the frame than most). Basically, the tires ripped the hoses out of the box when twisted and turning. Anyway, I'm very happy with mine other than the fact it's a bit slow. I've had NO mechanical problems with it once the hose location was resolved. I did the "flow mods" to my pump, but it's still too slow below 1000 rpm or so, particularly if I'm on the brakes too (hydro boost). I think if I pony up for a good after-market pump, It will probably be just about perfect...
ww09.jpg
 
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az-k5 said:
The EMS cap allows you to keep the lines away from the tire
14536MVC-720F.JPG
Click to expand...

Can you guys post a link to "EMS"? That is some secksy junk! I tried to Google it but got a ton of emergency response type stuff.

Thanks!
 
im just about done collecting my assist parts.

2"x8" Northern Tool cylinder
DIY ram mount
home ported box (i have a front cap of tapped made of steel and will tap the top cap, sorta like the EMS setup, but only cheaper).
3/8" x 6' hoses i had gotten as a partial trade with a hydro boost setup.
 
Hydraulic Brake Booster (hydro-boost). Similar to Vac brake booster, but driven by the power steering pump and much more powerful. Typically found on 1 ton trucks, pretty much all diesels, and high end luxury cars like Town Cars (due to smooth and effortless operation I guess).
 
I dont remember prices or specs n stuff cuz I did all of it a while ago but...

Cylinder:WTO (leaky)
Hoses/fittings:WTO
Steering box:my box Tapped by WTO
p/s pump mods: None
crossover/highsteer:ORD crossover/highsteer arms,
tie rod setup:ORD drag link tierod both with w/TREs
Problems:My only complaint is the ram leaks.

117379572vNgaSZ_ph.jpg

117380370aMHAru_ph.jpg
 
How do yall have your lines run?? My wto lines are so long and there pretty stiff, hard to find a good spot that they will work in and not get into the header or oil pan.
 
Mine are WTO and you can see how they are routed in the pic.
 
Hmm seem slike mine are to long to do that easily. Myabe once I push my axle 3" forward this weekend they will. I have a feeling the headers arnt going to last long....
 
Mine seem a bit long.Mine run on the outside of the frame and have heat shielding on them where they run by the exhaust.

P1010021.jpg
 
I somehow forgot to take a picture of how my lines are run but they wrap around the front of the box and go to the ram from there. They're outta the way and safe from carnage and I seriously doubt they'd get into headers if I had 'em.
 
I absolutely hate headers, nothing but trouble... Still, heat shealding in the form of header wrap, or a sheet metal "tin can" style sheild as used for starters should be enough. Main thing is to block the radiant heat.

Also, mine are +4" compared to what WTO normally shipped at the time I got mine. Not sure what "normal" is now, but mine are rather long.
 
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