Not especially locked into 6 lug wheels, but the tires are brand new, I'd hate to go away from 15 inch rims and waste the tires.
CK5
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Phil's '88 Big Blue Build Thread
- Thread starter Phil513
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Not especially locked into 6 lug wheels, but the tires are brand new, I'd hate to go away from 15 inch rims and waste the tires.
You can run 15" wheels on 3/4 ton axles.
The front requires a small amount of grinding, the rear will mount right up (unless you do a disc brake swap, then they require a small amount of grinding as well).
Martin
The front requires a small amount of grinding, the rear will mount right up (unless you do a disc brake swap, then they require a small amount of grinding as well).
Martin
OK, I'll start keeping an eye out for those. I don't really know how to find stuff like that, other than just watch craigslist. I think the wrecking yards here are pretty picked through. I have seen failed 3/4 ton project trucks for sale, but since I live in an apartment, thats not really an option.
If you're going 3/4-ton, you don't need to replace your front axle. Simply locate a set of 8-lug hubs and caliper backing plates, and install them right onto the truck. I ended up buying a whole axle to get mine, but changing those out was lots less work than rebuilding the second axle and then going through the swap.
If you are wanting different gears, it's probably easier to simply buy a front axle with the proper gears. Unless you are trying to gain a new skill (which is always a good thing).
In general, rear axles are more common than front axles, so it should be easier for you to find a 14 bolt (either SF or FF) and swap it in. If you are going with a semi-float axle, you can get 6-lug shafts for it and keep your existing wheels & front axle setup). These 6-lug 14bsf axles are found in "heavy half-ton" trucks and 3/4-ton cargo vans from the 90s (and maybe later?). You can either get one of those axles and modify the spring & shock mounts to fit your narrower frame, or you can get an 80's 14bsf axle and put the 6-lug shafts into it.
If you want a full-floating axle, you're pretty much stuck with 8-lug hardware.
If you are wanting different gears, it's probably easier to simply buy a front axle with the proper gears. Unless you are trying to gain a new skill (which is always a good thing).
In general, rear axles are more common than front axles, so it should be easier for you to find a 14 bolt (either SF or FF) and swap it in. If you are going with a semi-float axle, you can get 6-lug shafts for it and keep your existing wheels & front axle setup). These 6-lug 14bsf axles are found in "heavy half-ton" trucks and 3/4-ton cargo vans from the 90s (and maybe later?). You can either get one of those axles and modify the spring & shock mounts to fit your narrower frame, or you can get an 80's 14bsf axle and put the 6-lug shafts into it.
If you want a full-floating axle, you're pretty much stuck with 8-lug hardware.
what he said^^^you can get a 10 bolt front and a 14bff for less than what 2 sets of gears and install kits cost.
if you need to stay 6 lug get a 9.5 14 bolf SEMI- float rear end.
the semi floats are usually 3.73's, arent they? I'd really like to go to 4.10's.
Not really sure, but my '90 has 3.73's.
Is this not a shorter version of what I said?
14bsf axles come in many ratios. 4.10 and 3.73 are common choices for both semi float and full float 14-bolt axles. 6-lug 14-bolts (9.5") do have a tendency to come with 3.42 gears. So six lug will likely require gear swapping. But it's easy to cheaply get a matching set of 8-lug hardware (I paid $200 for my D44/14bff set).
They are available, recently pulled a 410 6 lug unit from the junk yard. GM gear codes are available online, makes it easier to find
Well, during our down time, I did a lot of thinking and decided to just start saving for a Dana 60 and 14 bolt. Might as well just do that.
Which means in the meantime, I won't be installing lockers or regearing the 10 bolts, just run them as is until I collect all the stuff. Might take me awhile though, but that's ok.
I read where, since I have an SM465, i wont need a rear conversion u-joint, is that true?
Which means in the meantime, I won't be installing lockers or regearing the 10 bolts, just run them as is until I collect all the stuff. Might take me awhile though, but that's ok.
I read where, since I have an SM465, i wont need a rear conversion u-joint, is that true?
What drive joint is on your Tcase now or is it a Slip yoke?
Mine is a 205 with a fixed yoke non-flanged, 1310 joint.
For the new driveline, I'm changing the yoke and going up to a 1350 which will match the 14b.
Mine is a 205 with a fixed yoke non-flanged, 1310 joint.
For the new driveline, I'm changing the yoke and going up to a 1350 which will match the 14b.
I'm the worst one to ask. Every project i do gets a fresh driveline. I change out the drive yokes so all the joints are 1350s.
Worth noting the pinion on both a D60 and the 14bff are longer than the 1/2 ton pinions by about an inch.
Worth noting the pinion on both a D60 and the 14bff are longer than the 1/2 ton pinions by about an inch.
Well, that sorta works with a 4 inch lift then. lol.
My real challenge is going to be finding a Dana 60. Which I guess isn't really any big news. It's like a unicorn nowadays. I found one within 3 hours of me, for $1500. I don't have that kind of scratch yet, so I'm just going to keep saving for now. Hopefully something will turn up.
My real challenge is going to be finding a Dana 60. Which I guess isn't really any big news. It's like a unicorn nowadays. I found one within 3 hours of me, for $1500. I don't have that kind of scratch yet, so I'm just going to keep saving for now. Hopefully something will turn up.
What are you actually going to use the truck for and what tire size?
Well, eventually I'd like to do some Moab trails, maybe not the real gnarly ones though. But mostly exploring around here (Southern Nevada, Arizona).
I'm just at this weird tipping point.
A. Do I spend money on lockers, gears, and chromo axles and end up still with just 10 bolts. ( I need to go to 4.10s or so, eventually. It works now though with the 3.43s, just not optimum). Tires are 35's now.
or.
B. Drive it just like it is, and save for tons. At that point, I'd get 8 lug wheels, go to 37s, probably add a 1" body lift to minimize trimming. (I'd probably look for 4.56 axles at that point)
Going the 3/4 ton route doesn't excite me. an 8 lug Dana 44 isn't an improvement over my 10 bolt.
My head is swimming a bit. lol. I just don't want to spend any more money that I'll just end up backtracking later.
I'm just at this weird tipping point.
A. Do I spend money on lockers, gears, and chromo axles and end up still with just 10 bolts. ( I need to go to 4.10s or so, eventually. It works now though with the 3.43s, just not optimum). Tires are 35's now.
or.
B. Drive it just like it is, and save for tons. At that point, I'd get 8 lug wheels, go to 37s, probably add a 1" body lift to minimize trimming. (I'd probably look for 4.56 axles at that point)
Going the 3/4 ton route doesn't excite me. an 8 lug Dana 44 isn't an improvement over my 10 bolt.
My head is swimming a bit. lol. I just don't want to spend any more money that I'll just end up backtracking later.
In my opinion, find a set of 3/4 tons. They are common in 4:10 and just enjoy your rig.
As things break reevaluate the need for tons. Your pocket book will thank you lol.
As things break reevaluate the need for tons. Your pocket book will thank you lol.
Something else to consider is keep within the realm of what is readily available and desirable. Locked half ton axles are not real desirable. Locked 3/4 tons are and typically are easier to find as guys upgrade to tons. Then if you need to sell anything, it's marketable.
Keep your front 10-bolt, convert to 8-lug, and find a 14bff for the rear. The rear axle should run you ~$150 (maybe less), and the conversion should be cheaper yet. Or simply buy a set of matching 3/4-ton 4.10 axles ($200-$300 cost in my area). Then you have 8-lug hardware, you can upgrade all you want, and you've saved at least $1000 vs. going to a D60 (and probably saved time on the front end, too). If you ever do start breaking stuff, you can swap in a D60 then, and your 8-lug front axle will be worth a few bucks more than it is in 6-lug configuration. You'll still have the heavy rear (no wasting money back there), and you'll be set up for an easy swap up front, with wheels and tires already 8-lug.
But I'm guessing that you'll never bother upgrading, if you stick with that purpose. You don't need a heavy front axle for non-gnarly exploration. 10-bolt should be fine. There are plenty of folks who go exploring Moab with stock 1/2-ton trucks. You'd already be a good step up from that.
