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Picking up a 327 Tomorrow

T

think_07

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So during my search for a set of heads for my 4 bolt 350 rebuild I came across a rebuilt 327 today for a great price. Going down to pick it up tomorrow after work. I'm pretty excited because now this should be one major obstical out of the way towards having my K5 out on the trail this summer. It was rebuild about 5 years ago and never put in anything, so do you guys have any tips to do before I install it and run it for the first time (wont be until spring when it warms up). Either way this definetly cheered up my dim outlook on having my K5 possibly done this season. haha
 
i'm guessing it's a long block

do you know/trust whoever built it? how much cam?

i'd oil the snot out of it with a drill and adapter, and if it's been sitting unturned for a while you might want to put on a new set of valve springs, they coould have taken a set, i've never had a problem, but have talked to some guys that recommend new ones.

if you have any kind of a stand, bolt on a starter and drop in an old dist base, spin it over and check the compression.

they are getting hard to find, sounds like you found a classic!

how old is it? check that it has the motor mount holes tapped, and enough accessory mount holes in the heads for what you want to do.
 
Unless the heads a not the originals for the motor, it likely doesn't have the accessory holes in the heads. Only the '69 models had them, along with a long nose water pump.

I would be concerned with a lack of break-in lube on the cam and lifter bottoms.
 
Pulls the heads and check your cylinder wall condition. I remember when I bought a 350 that "Was pulled running good after a rebuild just sat". They left out the part where they let it sit outside completely inproperly sealed. Cylinder wall rust...
 
Okay well i'll lube it up plenty before I attempt to start it. Its got an RV cam, and its from '67. Its got the camel hump heads with no accessory holes. What are the accessories I would not be able to run?
 
Stomis said:
Pulls the heads and check your cylinder wall condition. I remember when I bought a 350 that "Was pulled running good after a rebuild just sat". They left out the part where they let it sit outside completely inproperly sealed. Cylinder wall rust...
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I was given a 4-bolt 350 like that. Fresh rebuild five years ago--rust was nearly 1/8" thick on the two cylinders with open valves. I was peeved even though it was free, because not only was it obviously an quality rebuild (quality pistons and cam) it had been bored .060 and can't be rebored to get rid of the rust.:mad:
 
Alright well I'm sure praying its in good shape inside. From what I was told it has been sitting in a dry garage since it has been built so we will see. I'm also getting another set of camel bump heads with it so i'm happy about that.
 
An old engine that ran , I would , and have brought them back with some old backyard mechanic tricks .

An engine that never ran , well , its time for breaking her open and putting some assembly lube on her . She needs to run at 2000 rpm for a half hour or so to break in the cam . So make her happy .
 
think_07 said:
...and its from '67. Its got the camel hump heads with no accessory holes. What are the accessories I would not be able to run?
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Well, all of them. The alternator/brackets, AC/brackets and PS pump all bolt onto the heads.
If I were in your situation, I would pull the heads off and sell them to someone restoring an old chevy, as they are somewhat desirable for that purpose. Then buy a set of vortecs and matching intake, because they will have the accessory holes and make more power than the double humps.
 
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