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**PICS** of my brackets/ram installation

Your bracket looks great. It definately gave me some ideas. Also, thanks for the best view I've seen of a behind the axle tie rod. Will your rig be street driven at all? I'm curious to know how it does both on and off road.
 
79Beast said:
Your bracket looks great. It definately gave me some ideas. Also, thanks for the best view I've seen of a behind the axle tie rod. Will your rig be street driven at all? I'm curious to know how it does both on and off road.
Mine won't be street driven much, but my friend has the same setup on his 72' K5 w/ 6" of lift that gets street driven quite a bit. His steering is very tight and responsive on road and he likes it alot. I would recommend WFO CONCEPTS to anybody. Their products have been great, and the service is 2nd to none. I got my arms, tierod, draglink, rod ends, pitman arm, etc... from them and have been happy w/ all of it, and the shipping times are amazing...
 
Poohbair said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about that when I built it, but then after more contemplating I think it will be ok. The bottom ram mount is only about 3/8 of an inch above the bolt, and the plate is 3/8". That means that the ram would have to push hard enough to basically bend 3/8" plate RIGHT at the top of the bolt.
It may bend, we will see... but I look at it one way, I have never been afraid of breaking parts on my rig so let 'er fly and see what happens!:grin:
Even with a little 1.25" ram you'll be putting over 2000 lbs of force on the bracket. It'll bend, perhaps not right away, but it will. Double the force for a 1.75" ram.
Were it me I'd add the gusset and tab the end of it to go under the far U-bolt nuts.

WFO is Trevor Huiskens, right? Tell him hello if you talk to him much.
 
Maybe I am seeing things, but It appears that the high steering arm are bolted backwards. How would that work?
 
ntsqd said:
Even with a little 1.25" ram you'll be putting over 2000 lbs of force on the bracket. It'll bend, perhaps not right away, but it will. Double the force for a 1.75" ram.
Were it me I'd add the gusset and tab the end of it to go under the far U-bolt nuts.

WFO is Trevor Huiskens, right? Tell him hello if you talk to him much.

How many pounds of pressure can a 3/8" plate handle? Most winch mounts are made out of 3/16" or less and they get up to 18,000 lbs on them...?
 
78blazaer said:
Maybe I am seeing things, but It appears that the high steering arm are bolted backwards. How would that work?

They arent backwards, they are reversed Hi steer arms from WFO
 
Poohbair said:
My 52's have the overload removed and replaced w/ a thin leaf from a set of Skyjacker springs, and then a THIN 0 rate/shim. I have about an inch or more of clearance between the spring and the tierod. Before I messed w/ the spring pack and had a regular add a leaf in I did have issues.

this is usefull info... I guess I might have to do something like this with my packs. Did you try running just stock 52s? Seems like 1 overload might be the same thickness as that skyjacker spring + the thin zero rate. I want 5" of lift with my 52s, maybe I'll have to get them rearched... I dunno. I guess I could take the zero rate out in my rear 52s if the front lift turns out to be lower than I wanted.

j
 
jekbrown said:
this is usefull info... I guess I might have to do something like this with my packs. Did you try running just stock 52s? Seems like 1 overload might be the same thickness as that skyjacker spring + the thin zero rate. I want 5" of lift with my 52s, maybe I'll have to get them rearched... I dunno. I guess I could take the zero rate out in my rear 52s if the front lift turns out to be lower than I wanted.

j

Yeah, the thin offset shim and the Skyjacker leaf are probably about the same thickness as the stock overload... maybe a TOUCH thinner. I never tried it w/ just the 52's because I didn't want to settle for my axle only being 2" forward from stock... I wanted 3.5 or nothing. It would probaby work w/ no zero rate and a stock leaf pack just fine.
 
my perches are drilled 1" off-center... so I figure I'll have 3" of forward-axle-action. Thats plenty for me... why did you need 3.5", if I may ask. I planned on trying the stock 52 pack plus one of the shorter leaves off another 52" pack, but I think that will be to thick to use with the WFO behind-the-diff arms. Oh well, lower center of gravity is better anyway right? :grin:

j
 
jekbrown said:
my perches are drilled 1" off-center... so I figure I'll have 3" of forward-axle-action. Thats plenty for me... why did you need 3.5", if I may ask. I planned on trying the stock 52 pack plus one of the shorter leaves off another 52" pack, but I think that will be to thick to use with the WFO behind-the-diff arms. Oh well, lower center of gravity is better anyway right? :grin:

j

THe further forward, the better the approach angle is. That would be my guess. I only did it cause i could.
 
jekbrown said:
my perches are drilled 1" off-center... so I figure I'll have 3" of forward-axle-action. Thats plenty for me... why did you need 3.5", if I may ask. I planned on trying the stock 52 pack plus one of the shorter leaves off another 52" pack, but I think that will be to thick to use with the WFO behind-the-diff arms. Oh well, lower center of gravity is better anyway right? :grin:

j

I would rather have it more in the 6 or 7" forward area, but that involves WAY to much work all the way around, and causes too many issues... so 3.5" is easy to do and doesn't interfere with anything else so that is why I wanted to go for it. I would like to have the tires stick clear out in front of the ends of the front frame rails :grin: . Approach angle is the biggest reason. I would love it to be so I could pull up to a wall and have the tires touch it before anything else!!
 
Poohbair said:
How many pounds of pressure can a 3/8" plate handle? Most winch mounts are made out of 3/16" or less and they get up to 18,000 lbs on them...?

That is a Shear or Bearing type failure. You've got it in a Bending failure mode. Far easier to bend steel than it is to tear it.

If you really want to know what it'll take to bend it you'll have to wait until next week b4 I can calc it. My ref books are at work and there's a 1000 yard long mudslide btwn here and there.
 
ntsqd said:
That is a Shear or Bearing type failure. You've got it in a Bending failure mode. Far easier to bend steel than it is to tear it.

If you really want to know what it'll take to bend it you'll have to wait until next week b4 I can calc it. My ref books are at work and there's a 1000 yard long mudslide btwn here and there.

That would be sweet to know... I tried looking around the net for a while and didn't come up w/ anything.
 

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