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Pics of my Dana 60 14BFF Install

Good to see you back on the board:thumb:
 
THUNDERUSONE said:
Thanks for the compliments on the burb. I wouldnt say that you can't neccessarily hide money.....its just that I am not very good at saving any.:D To me, rat holing money away is like taking an 18 year old piece of quality puss and putting it in safe deposit box. Why would you not want to enjoy it now when you can really appreciate it. Assuming that was possible, what would you do with that when you are 70 years old sitting around in an adult diaper? :-)

Well put sir!!
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I am getting ready to lay the beads on the China walls and go back down with the intake. This is a royal pain in the azz to do this one in the truck.

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what coating did you run inside the mill?


good to see ya back around.... :D
 
ryoken said:
what coating did you run inside the mill?


good to see ya back around.... :D
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Thanks Man! I think that it is a high build primer with an epoxy coating. This particular block is the GM Gen 6 Bowtie tall deck. Believe it or not....it actually came this way. I have to admit, it looks just like it did when I assembled it...so no complaints. My intake gasket failure was due to several circumstances that got together at the same time with the carb that would probably never happen again.
 
thanks... I've just always been curious as to internal block coatings.... I've deburred, smoothed and polished 340 lifter valleys and such for oil return before, but always wondered about the coatings...
 
ryoken said:
thanks... I've just always been curious as to internal block coatings.... I've deburred, smoothed and polished 340 lifter valleys and such for oil return before, but always wondered about the coatings...
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The coatings do well and I like them if they are properly done. The issue comes if you do one and there is ANY oil residue and that epoxy starts lifting in chips and headed to other areas. Typically when I build a larger hp blown 598ci up to 1200hp, I use a wet sump system that has a total system capacity of about 3 1/2 gallons. North of 1200hp continuous duty I go dry sump with a 5 gal capacity. With that being said, with all of the things that I do to get the oil back to the bottom of the pan and the kind of capacity that we use in the boats, I have NEVER had an oil starvation problem not running a coated valley. In a higher hp automotive application, it might become an issue. I really dont know.

I got my intake back on. I got my new style ECM controlled distributor stabbed. I dikked around for 30 minutes trying to get the oil pump drive rod to line up. I could not get in any position where I could actually see it. I finally just kept messing with it and it finally dropped in. I had already brought number 1 up to TDC before I pulled the old manifold off. I am about spent for the day. I am going to finish up tomorrow. I have a little bit of wiring to do with the new ignition and I have to mount my external coil. (The old HEI had the coil in the distributor). Other than that it should come together pretty quickly from here on in. Everything else is pretty much plug and play from the EFI conversion two weeks ago.

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Slapperbar said:
I love this build. Watch the livewires at the crimp inside the boot at the spark plug. I had a few break there.
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Thanks man. That is great info to know. Were they live wires brand that this happened on? I pulled one apart removing an engine out of my old boat but it was my fault.

I had to order a coil wire to go to the external coil since the large cap HEI had the coil in the distributor.
 
Slapperbar said:
They were DUI Livewires for my wife's Jeep 4.0.
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Thanks brother. I will make sure to ohm all of them out in the future to try and catch it on the front end if there is a problem. So far, I have never had an issue with them. Actually they have been the best performing wires that I have ever used around headers. But, the devil is in the details on all of this stuff. About the time you really learn enough to build a truck / car / buggy from the ground up and do it right....you fall over dead from old age. :D
 
Teck said:
Nuce work as always.
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Thanks Teck. You know have nothing but RESPECT for your mad skills. I have everything wired up, fuel pressure and I topped the radiator back off with Be Cool Ice. I think that I am ready to put the ECM back in learn mode and set the base timing.

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I got it fired up and the timing matched up between the ECM and motor. You have to get it running and then hold it at 2,000 rpm. With it at 2k, you match the actual engine timing with the same reading the the handheld from the ECM says. It may case that was 37 degrees. It is now locked down and ready to go drive and learn. It even idles at 850 rpm. :D. I have rain coming in and I am exhausted. I will drive it later this week and then report back.

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