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Pics of my K5 and a few questions! *Exhaust anyone??*

My truck looked like that at one time...:D

Pick up some Stage 8 locking header bolts. Summit.com has them. If you don't, you WILL be tighening those header bolts down ALL the time.

If you're stickin with the carb and want to make the truck a wheeler, ditch the edelbrock carb and put a q-jet back on there. Hill billy efi.

You could prolly find the parts to fix your gas tank flapper at the junk yard. I had to pull back on the boot around the pump nozzle and stand there holding it back while it filled up on my rig...wouldn't work any otherway. Maybe try that in the meantime?

For the gauges, always check the fuses first.

Lug nuts should take a 13/16" socket....I think that works out to a 7/16" bolt? Just tell them you need lug nuts for your year K5.

Gaskets won't matter as long as you get them for a small block chevy motor.

Tightening cover bolts is just a common sense thing. All you're lookin to do is seal in the fluid. Bolts don't have to be tighened in sequence, just enough that it doesn't leak.

Good luck with your new rig dude!:laugh:
 
I think the breathers must be the problem with the fuel tank.. now just to find them!

It is acting like the only way the air thats being displaced in the tank can go is back up the nozzle, so I'm thinking that must be it then. Thanks for the tip!
 
The ones I got from a local tire place are 13/16"

On another note I changed the fluid in both diffs today as well as sealing them.. first time doing anything like that, and alone at that. Front took very little time, but the rear was a pain. Someone before me stripped out the fill plug, had to use a set of vice grips to get it out. Fortunatly I was able to locate a spare without going into town, came from a Ford though ;) Took me all of 6 hours for both...I did paint the diff covers with a can of Krylon I had laying around, figured it'd be helpful in spotting leaks. Color is funky, it is a metallic satin gold!

I did find out that the Speedometer cable is attached to the t case and seems to be hooked up okay on that end. Need to check the other end though I guess.

Doing the oil tomorow as well as cleaning it up a bit.. brakes and header gaskets next week! Going to have a friend help me with the carb(can't really afford to change it out at the moment)...

The only bad thing is after tomorow I have to go back to driving the Ranger daily, this thing sucks wayyy to much gas :(
 
It's a little dirty now, and I got a little sealer on it... No leaks though!

blazer008.jpg


By the way, anyone know who makes these headers?

blazer007.jpg
 
Fuses seem to be a problem with the horn at least, going to play with it some more(seems a lot are missing or blown, only a few are labeled). I did get the horn working with a spare fuse I had laying around :D

I also found a major exhaust leak.. where the collectors bolt up to the exhaust pipe, it leaks bad(and the result is a nice flapping noise going down the road). And I also located an oil leak too :(

Lot's of fun!
 
your headers look like dynomax. I had two sets and they both had that style flange, its round around the pipes instead of square. get a set of Hedmans. they ahve a ball and socket style collector.
 
Those look like cheapie headers...1/4" thick flange is NOT enough. Look for 3/8" thick flanges ATLEAST. The thicker they are, the less they warp. The less they warp, the less they leak and blow out gaskets.

Also, in the picture of your headers, the wire next to the plug boot should be tied up away from the header... It's the coolant temp sending unit, if the wire burns through, your temp gauge will quit working.
 
Thanks! I just moved it(didn't know what it was..).

On a side note, just measured them and they are 1/4" :(
 
how come you got 2 different style plug wires. looks like newer plugs though. might look into a whole new set of wires. can't hurt anything
 
You know I'm not entirely sure, but you are right, probably ought to be done.

I was wondering, what would the most economical solution to the exhaust issues be? Stock manifolds and doing a little replumbing? It already has duals installed and welded all the way back, just would need to get the manifolds hooked up.. no emissions here ;)
 
1978Blazerk5 said:
if it were me i would spend a little more money and get a quality set of headers
Click to expand...
like the ones with the ball and socket talked about earlier. less leaks and looks better IMO
 
Buying headers is going to have to wait for now :( Being in college changes the priorities unfortunately!

Found the oil leak, and it is on the front seal at around 7-8 o'clock if you look straight at the engine.

And my oil pressure idiot light doesn't work.. top that off with a dipstick that never reads the same and it gets troubling to say the least. Not going to drive it much till I at least get a gauge for the oil pressure...

The starter is getting a little worse too, it'll still start but it sometimes takes a while(other times it won't till you make 5 or 6 attempts).

So the list goes:

Starter
Oil Leak
Exhaust
Floors
Weather stripping and door seals

Fun :D
 
take a look at where your starter is and where the headers drop down...I bet you might have a related issue...if the starter isn't wrapped in a heat shield and the headers run right next to it you might be cookin' it from the heat radiating off of the headers...
My dad's headers run right next to his starter and when we changed his we put a heat blanket on it and he is good to go...
 
They run next to each other, but there's about 3" of clearance(enough?). I picked up the starter today, will put it in here next week. Never done one, so I'm planning on it being a day project...

Also, I need to change the water outlet gasket. It was suggested to me to just remove the thermostat while I was in there.. is that sound advice or should I just leave it?
 
jonathon said:
They run next to each other, but there's about 3" of clearance(enough?). I picked up the starter today, will put it in here next week. Never done one, so I'm planning on it being a day project...

Also, I need to change the water outlet gasket. It was suggested to me to just remove the thermostat while I was in there.. is that sound advice or should I just leave it?
Click to expand...

Its a good idea to remove the themostat... Its also a better idea to put a new themostat in its place ;)
 
Okay, so it should stay.. and I should get a new one versus putting the old one back in?
 
well it really doesn't matter... it just cheap insurance

I mean really their not even $10...
 
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