general blaze
1/2 ton status
well i am loving the truck. but i am not too impressed with my first diesel.. i would like some more power.. no tire spin= no fun.
CK5
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pics of my new k5 6.2
- Thread starter general blaze
- Start date
general blaze
1/2 ton status
Pookster
1/2 ton status
She looks fine to me. 
Nice truck you have there as well.
Check the gearing, you probably have 308's.
Nice truck you have there as well.
Check the gearing, you probably have 308's.
general blaze
1/2 ton status
could gearing help me out..?? it crawls around just fine. but if i want to charge a steep hill that is covered in lose sand.. she has a hard time..
general blaze
1/2 ton status
what are my gearing options?? if i have 308s whats that mean and what can be expected from other gears.
pauly383
Daddy383
Actually , No tire spin = Less broken parts
Gears do help . I noticed the difference going lower , with the same tire size , and only change being gears .
Another thing that helps is a locker . I was able to climb stuff with a small motor and highway gears due to traction .
Gears do help . I noticed the difference going lower , with the same tire size , and only change being gears .
Another thing that helps is a locker . I was able to climb stuff with a small motor and highway gears due to traction .
general blaze
1/2 ton status
ya i noticed i dont have posi in the rear.. that is crap i need to fix that asap. what is the best way to go about fixing that problem and what gears should i look for.. i still want this thing to be streetable but it is not my daily driver so i can afford to surrender some drivability.
RustBuket
1/2 ton status
3.08 means that for every time the wheels turn one full rotation, the driveshaft has to turn 3.08 times. The torque applied to the shaft is also multiplied by that factor so therefore if you have a lower ratio (higher nummerically) say 4.10:1 u get more torque but your engine will have to spin more times to do the same distance. So basically you lose that comfortable highway RPM and gain off the line power.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Try just getting new axles complete- since you seem like your keeping the truck, try to find a d44/10b 8 lug front and a 14B SF or FF for the rear- it will run you about 400, and it will be less than the cost for regearing. Plus, you get more brakes, and stronger axles.
If that is a stock 6.2 K5 it should have the 700R-4 and a 'C' code 6.2.
You can get a few more hp from the 6.2 by swapping on a 'J' code (non EGR) intake and port matching the intake. Inexpensive and simple.
More importantly you should regear. 4.56's would be great. Not only do lower gears mean more rpms, but they multiply torque. So, if you have ~240 lbs of torque to work with 3.08's will put down 739 lbs to the wheels. 4.56's increase that to ~1100 lbs. That's about a 50% increase.
RPM wise you'll still be in good shape because you have overdrive. The 6.2 is most efficient around 1800 rpm cruise. With 33's and 4.56's you'll be at 2100 rpm at 65...which is still low enough to return ~20 mpg.
Diesels also really respond well to large free flowing exhaust. Large exhaust also helps keep EGT's down...not that that is such a big deal with no turbo but it is a nice side benfit IMO.
Rene
You can get a few more hp from the 6.2 by swapping on a 'J' code (non EGR) intake and port matching the intake. Inexpensive and simple.
More importantly you should regear. 4.56's would be great. Not only do lower gears mean more rpms, but they multiply torque. So, if you have ~240 lbs of torque to work with 3.08's will put down 739 lbs to the wheels. 4.56's increase that to ~1100 lbs. That's about a 50% increase.
RPM wise you'll still be in good shape because you have overdrive. The 6.2 is most efficient around 1800 rpm cruise. With 33's and 4.56's you'll be at 2100 rpm at 65...which is still low enough to return ~20 mpg.
Diesels also really respond well to large free flowing exhaust. Large exhaust also helps keep EGT's down...not that that is such a big deal with no turbo but it is a nice side benfit IMO.
Rene
general blaze
1/2 ton status
THANSK alot for all the info. but i am still a newbie. all this c code and j code things i am not to familur with. but it seems like helpfull info. this is not my daily driver so i am not to concerned with highway speeds. i want the lower gears. so i am going to do what you said. where can i find these parts..
Two options come to mind.
Option #1:
Re-gear existing diff's to 4.56 and add at least a rear locker. Detroit locker is about $500, gear sets seem to run about $250 for each end plus having them installed might run another $200-$400.
The downside to that plan is you'll still have a somewhat failure prone 10 bolt rear end...although with a full carrier Detroit it should withstand more.
Total cost is prolly gonna be about $1500.
Option #2:
Swap to 3/4 ton diff's. 14 bolt FF rear and 8 lug 10 bolt front. These diff's commonly come with 4.10's and can usually be found for under $400 for the pair. Yes, the ratio isn't quite as deep but it would still be a very good improvement over what you have now. Factor in 4 15 x 8 8 lug steel rims and you'll be able to re-use your existing tires...shouldn't run more than $250 for the rims.
Total cost is gonna be about $650. Add a Detroit for another $380 and install it yourself (easy job). So, for just over $1K you would have a bulletproof rear diff with a detroit locker and much better gears.
This is a 'J' code intake:
You can see it's pretty much open from the top except for the divider mine has. Some versions don't have the divider. If you remove your air cleaner assembly you'll see the difference. I don't have a 'C' code intake pic handy...but basically there is an EGR crowding where the air goes in and it's pretty restrictive. The more air a diesel can get the more fuel it can use and the more power it'll make.
Rene
Option #1:
Re-gear existing diff's to 4.56 and add at least a rear locker. Detroit locker is about $500, gear sets seem to run about $250 for each end plus having them installed might run another $200-$400.
The downside to that plan is you'll still have a somewhat failure prone 10 bolt rear end...although with a full carrier Detroit it should withstand more.
Total cost is prolly gonna be about $1500.
Option #2:
Swap to 3/4 ton diff's. 14 bolt FF rear and 8 lug 10 bolt front. These diff's commonly come with 4.10's and can usually be found for under $400 for the pair. Yes, the ratio isn't quite as deep but it would still be a very good improvement over what you have now. Factor in 4 15 x 8 8 lug steel rims and you'll be able to re-use your existing tires...shouldn't run more than $250 for the rims.
Total cost is gonna be about $650. Add a Detroit for another $380 and install it yourself (easy job). So, for just over $1K you would have a bulletproof rear diff with a detroit locker and much better gears.
This is a 'J' code intake:
You can see it's pretty much open from the top except for the divider mine has. Some versions don't have the divider. If you remove your air cleaner assembly you'll see the difference. I don't have a 'C' code intake pic handy...but basically there is an EGR crowding where the air goes in and it's pretty restrictive. The more air a diesel can get the more fuel it can use and the more power it'll make.
Rene
what is the hp rating on those?
maybe that is part of it?
I was searching the other day and came up with non turbo @ 135hp and 240ftlb torque?????
that is why im learing away from a diesel...
maybe that is part of it?
I was searching the other day and came up with non turbo @ 135hp and 240ftlb torque?????
that is why im learing away from a diesel...
yo divorced..
guess you play postal 2 huh???
running with scissors
ALI ALI ALI ALI - yelling in a foreign tongue
guess you play postal 2 huh???
running with scissors
ALI ALI ALI ALI - yelling in a foreign tongue
'J' code is supposed to be 155 hp and either 255 or 265 tq. I've seen a few chassis dyno numbers exceeding that at the rear wheels though.
Gearing does affect chassis dyno numbers though, and the truck I'm referring to had a 700R-4 and 4.56's with 35's. Best numbers before the turbo was added was 134 hp and 336 lbs of torque to the rear wheels. With turbo it was 172 hp and 451 lbs of torque.
Rene
Gearing does affect chassis dyno numbers though, and the truck I'm referring to had a 700R-4 and 4.56's with 35's. Best numbers before the turbo was added was 134 hp and 336 lbs of torque to the rear wheels. With turbo it was 172 hp and 451 lbs of torque.
Rene
general blaze
1/2 ton status
new axels it is. now where do i get these. do i go to my local salvage yard or check ebay.. can anyone supply me with a link if you see any going for a reasonable price..
oh and just a tid bit of info. i blew up my first u joint today..hahahahha. got it fixed in like 30 mins...
just thought i would share
oh and just a tid bit of info. i blew up my first u joint today..hahahahha. got it fixed in like 30 mins...
just thought i would share
general blaze
1/2 ton status
14 bolt FF what does this FF mean???
also i am searching ebay for these parts but i am having a hard time. i have a local shop here that is willing to help with my build up. they are giving me half off of labor.. and with my work schedual i just dont have the time to work onit myself right now..
also where do i get a j code intake manifold. what engine did it come on..?? what is a part number.. someone tell me how to getone of these.
also i am searching ebay for these parts but i am having a hard time. i have a local shop here that is willing to help with my build up. they are giving me half off of labor.. and with my work schedual i just dont have the time to work onit myself right now..
also where do i get a j code intake manifold. what engine did it come on..?? what is a part number.. someone tell me how to getone of these.
general blaze
1/2 ton status
general blaze
1/2 ton status
someone might like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...33731QQitemZ8001840571QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...33731QQitemZ8001840571QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
