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Pics of the new dd/tow rig... '00 K3500 CCLB

reddog64 said:
Actually it's best to run a small balance... no more than 1/2 if you must... and pay more than the minimum... even if only a few bucks :D
CC companies report several things ... late/on-time payments, minimum or more than minimum payment, and balance...

It kills your score if you fill a card up :rolleyes:
It kills your score if you miss a payment :doah:

Filling it up tells them your living on your CC, missing payments tells them you cant afford to have a cc...

Lots of good articles out there on this... The credit reporting companies are finally telling the consumers how they rate them... you just have to look...
And working for a bank helps... :wink1:
Click to expand...

THAT is good to know.
 
reddog64 said:
Actually it's best to run a small balance... no more than 1/2 if you must... and pay more than the minimum... even if only a few bucks :D
CC companies report several things ... late/on-time payments, minimum or more than minimum payment, and balance...

It kills your score if you fill a card up :rolleyes:
It kills your score if you miss a payment :doah:

Filling it up tells them your living on your CC, missing payments tells them you cant afford to have a cc...

Lots of good articles out there on this... The credit reporting companies are finally telling the consumers how they rate them... you just have to look...
And working for a bank helps... :wink1:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!
I've heard gas cards don't do much but would it be a good idea for me to get a regular credit card to put my gas on?
Also what about stuff at say 4 wheel parts? I have thought about getting new tires through their 12 month no interest deal on purchases of $1k or greater (which tires would be), or does that work differently?
 
So Avery! how do you like the turning radius on that sled? LOL I had a 95 cc long bed dually 4x4. It didn't like to turn.

As mentioned get a trans cooler compatible for a 40,000lb GVW check out your TRE's and idler arm and get the lifetime front half axles. Have the front hub bearings checked out as well as upper and lower ball joints. Also either replace the front axle actuator or upgrade it to a "posi-lok" actuator. Did you check the heater/AC fan? they like to squeal and often need replaced. The only other thing that I have a pet peeve about is sealed u-joints replace them with greasables and also check out your carrier bearing.

My final question is you said it has newer paint, is that b4 the dent in the door?
 
Haha actually it doesn't seem to bad to me, of course the only daily drivers I have ever had are my k10 on 38's and the black CCSB C2500 :)
Honestly it's worth it to me, I park in the back of parking lots anyways and it actually feels smoother than the black truck (probably b/c of the increased sidewall size as well as a longer WB)...

As far as your list of things to check I've been talking with TenBucks and I'm heading up north (Sac. area) one weekend for a meet and greet and at the same time I'm going to have the shop he used to work at replace the TRE's, Balljoints, etc and give it a once over...

What's the story on the front axle actuator? So even though its a stick on the floor TC shifter it still has an electronic actuator to engage the front end?

Oh and the paint... the pics I have on here are ones I found online. The dent was removed and then it was painted... so the dent is gone and the paint looks great. :)
 
I've got a 2000 K3500 regular Cab, 454/4l80E/4:10's. Love it. It's my daily driver and hauls all my cement buisness equip/skidsteer around with no problems at all. I bought it about 1 1/2 years ago with 118,000 miles on it. It was a southern truck, so no rust. Plus it already had the goose neck trailer hitch in it. I only gave $9200.00 out the door. Beutiful truck. Same color as your's also.
 
Yea they have a central axle disconnect with an actuator some where a gas chamber with a sort of glow plug when it heats up gas expands and engages the axles. The other kind is a worm drive where it spins and screws down the shaft. The good thing for you is your not in a cold climate cuz neither works vary well in the cold.
 
I just rolled into town (I had a couple hours to kill in Dallas) and the flight seemed to take forever! So the pics will have to wait. :)

Original Balzer... that sounds pretty crazy. So when you engage the TC and the front d-shaft starts spinning either the gas chamber or the worm gear setup is what engages the front axle shafts? Kinda sounds like a new version of the auto hubs on a solid front axle...

I found that posi-lok you were talking about... seems like a good idea.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_chevy-k.html
 
That is exactly what happens. Chevy designed the front end to never have to have manual hubs, but they did it in the differential on all the ones I have seen. My old S-10 used vacuum and was a total pain, but the newer ones are supposed to be a bit more reliable, but the posi-lock is the best way to ensure the front end engages when you engage the transfer case.
 
lectric80 said:
That is exactly what happens. Chevy designed the front end to never have to have manual hubs, but they did it in the differential on all the ones I have seen. My old S-10 used vacuum and was a total pain, but the newer ones are supposed to be a bit more reliable, but the posi-lock is the best way to ensure the front end engages when you engage the transfer case.
Click to expand...

I did a little googlin' and sounds like it's an ok system (especially b/c of the warm climate I live in) but it should definately be on the top of my list... it isn't really that expensive either (like $250) and it gives me the option of 2Low...
 
I've installed a couple of those Posi-Lock units in afew different vehicles. I really like them. I haven't done it to my 2000 K3500 yet, but I'm sure there'll be a day. I know when I lived in Las Vegas, mine went out in my 95 K1500 I just installed the original equip. actuator back in it only because at the time my dad worked for a Chevy dealer and I got factory parts real cheap.
 
this winter i checked the operation of my 4wd in the extreme cold (~-20*f) and the actuator worked fine. even that cold it went in just fine. i have the worm gear type of actuator. i still want to replace it someday just to be safe, though.
 
I have to admit, mine has worked all winter long so far, and yes, it get's damn cold up here in NE Wisconsin. (Now I just jinxed myself, HA HA HA)
 
Shesh, you guys live in some friggin' cold places!


I got some deep Michelin rubber floor mats for the front and back...
I tightened the driver's side hood hinge and got the hood aligned again so the latch works...
Oh and I installed a short LED bar above my rear license plate since the factory light in the bumper is gone. It looks clean and it'll keep the police off my tail ;)


I think I'm going to order up a new driver's side mirror and door handle so I can get them installed in the next week or so...


EDIT: I just ordered a new driver's side power mirror and a driver's side exterior door handle... $90 total after tax and shipping which didn't seem too bad. So those will be here in the next couple days and I'll get them popped on... Any tips or things I should know or is it pretty straightforward?
 
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Nope no owner's manual yet... Next time I'm at the auto parts store I'm going to grab a haynes or chilton for it though. I have one for my '85 and it comes in pretty handy.

I'm doing the fluids this weekend but I'm holding off on the tranny b/c we've been talking about swapping the 4L80's between both the trucks since the one in the C2500 only has about 9k miles on it.
 
Thats what I was looking into... I've heard on some trannys you can swap the tail-shaft since that's basically all that's different but I'm not sure on these...
I'm going to run by the shop that did my '85 and chat w/ him to see what he thinks...
 
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