hmmm, I'll have to look into that. the fact that it only happens when it warms up help point to anything?
CK5
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Pigeon-Rat - Opel gambler build
- Thread starter ashman
- Start date
1966 Opel rekord mounted to 1990 Nissan pathfinder.
yeah, I'm definitely feeling bummed at the moment. It was a ton of work for sure.
Did some searching and the interwebs are saying maf issue or cam sensor. Don't always trust brand new parts store parts.
I'd get it warmed up and start fogging the intake with carb cleaner to look for the vacuum leak. Any leak would suck in the cleaner and cause the idle to spike.
It's possible that the leak comes when the heat is in the engine and items have expanded/moved due to the heat. Could be the lower intake gasket, blower to intake gasket or just a straight up hose vacuum leak. Fog it down and find out.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll give it a shot and report back.
So, back on the subject of being able to tune this thing:
I was able to get the M30 ECU and harness plug ordered and on the way, so tuning will be possible. However, I'm curious about what happens with the supercharger. The current ECU has a connection for the supercharger bypass control solenoid. The M30 ECU will not have this connection.
Those of you that know superchargers... What happens without that solenoid connected?
I was able to get the M30 ECU and harness plug ordered and on the way, so tuning will be possible. However, I'm curious about what happens with the supercharger. The current ECU has a connection for the supercharger bypass control solenoid. The M30 ECU will not have this connection.
Those of you that know superchargers... What happens without that solenoid connected?
It’s going to dump boost when you don’t need it.
I imagine the bypass is normally closed so full boost all the time without having a way to operate it.
Side idea: You may want to look into installing a Holley Terminator to run the engine. Opens the door to a lot of other possibilities tuning wise
Side idea: You may want to look into installing a Holley Terminator to run the engine. Opens the door to a lot of other possibilities tuning wise
So fogged the top of the engine good with carb cleaner. Don't think it's an exhaust leak.
I've been sitting in it running for 20 plus minutes and it runs and idles just fine 95% of the time, then suddenly tried to die. A little bit of throttle will bring it back and after a few seconds it idles smoothly again.
Freaking weird.
I've been sitting in it running for 20 plus minutes and it runs and idles just fine 95% of the time, then suddenly tried to die. A little bit of throttle will bring it back and after a few seconds it idles smoothly again.
Freaking weird.
A little update on this thing. It's been running like crap, and seems to be getting worse, so I took it to a friends shop to let him give it a once over. He confirmed no vacuum leaks and replaced the idle air control. He found no issues with the wiring, but it still ran like crap. He suggested I have the injectors cleaned, so I did that. Turns out they were extremely dirty, so that may have been part of the problem, but I got them back in and it still runs like dog poo.
I am consistantly getting a knock sensor code (P0328), which evidently is a common issue with these engines. I'm going to attempt to make a bypass resistor and see what that does.
I am consistantly getting a knock sensor code (P0328), which evidently is a common issue with these engines. I'm going to attempt to make a bypass resistor and see what that does.
If the engine thinks it's knocking maybe it's pulling a ton of timing. What's your actual running timing at idle?
Did you try higher octane fuel?
I'll check that before I change anything, but I bet you are right.
Yeah, I'm running 91 octane. I'm pretty sure it's not actually knocking. From my research, these knock sensors are a known issue.
In HP tuners the GM ecm in my Camaro had a table to increase/decrease the knock sensitivity. Ended up playing with that to alleviate false some knock count.
You can also just delete them too if you feel like raw doggin it
So, I bypassed the knock sensor with a 560k ohm resistor and that solved my boost problem. I now get 8lbs of boost consistently. That's the good news.
The bad news is that it still tries to die at idle, and pushes an IAC code. It also runs like crap. Like it's not running on all cylinders or something. I'm really starting to hate this thing.
The bad news is that it still tries to die at idle, and pushes an IAC code. It also runs like crap. Like it's not running on all cylinders or something. I'm really starting to hate this thing.
Man, that sucks. At least you made some progress.So, I bypassed the knock sensor with a 560k ohm resistor and that solved my boost problem. I now get 8lbs of boost consistently. That's the good news.
The bad news is that it still tries to die at idle, and pushes an IAC code. It also runs like crap. Like it's not running on all cylinders or something. I'm really starting to hate this thing.
You said this has gotten progressively worse, meaning it used to idle relatively ok? So something is in the process of failing.. Do you have a real-time monitor of some sort? An ability to do some logging?
I just ordered an OBD2 bluetooth adaptor so that I can monitor it with my torque app.
Before I installed it, it ran great on the engine stand. Of course I never ran it for very long, or under any load, so I don't know what that means. It will idle just fine most of the time, but come up to a light and kick it into neutral and it may, or may not try to die. Since I am getting Idle Air Control codes, I'm assuming that is the issue, but the bigger problem right now is that is seems like it's not running on all cylinders.
be interesting to see what some datalogging shows
