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Pigeon-Rat - Opel gambler build

1966 Opel rekord mounted to 1990 Nissan pathfinder.
Overview Gallery Discussion
So, update time.
Verified that all the wiring we were worried about is connected correctly, so far it looks like I built the wiring harness correctly.
I moved the injectors around (which involves dismantling the top of the engine) and no change there, but it started running really bad, then wouldn't start at all.
Eventually I decided to try replacing the distributor (again) and it fires right up! However, while setting g the timing I caught one of the plug wires arcing to the head. So I pulled the supercharger (again) so that I could replace the plug wires. Now it runs great again! No more misfire!

I still have the idle issue though, and a scan tool shows it running way lean, even though the exhaust smells rich. I decided to replace the o2 sensors to see if that was the issue and found this:
20220825_190342.jpg
The v band is obviously leaking. Both sides were the same. You can see the o2 sensor just inside. Now, this is downstream from the sensor, but it's pretty close. Maybe that is the cause of my bad reading?

Gonna put it back together tomorrow with some copper rtv and see if there is any improvement.
 
ashman said:
So, update time.
Verified that all the wiring we were worried about is connected correctly, so far it looks like I built the wiring harness correctly.
I moved the injectors around (which involves dismantling the top of the engine) and no change there, but it started running really bad, then wouldn't start at all.
Eventually I decided to try replacing the distributor (again) and it fires right up! However, while setting g the timing I caught one of the plug wires arcing to the head. So I pulled the supercharger (again) so that I could replace the plug wires. Now it runs great again! No more misfire!

I still have the idle issue though, and a scan tool shows it running way lean, even though the exhaust smells rich. I decided to replace the o2 sensors to see if that was the issue and found this:
View attachment 423655
The v band is obviously leaking. Both sides were the same. You can see the o2 sensor just inside. Now, this is downstream from the sensor, but it's pretty close. Maybe that is the cause of my bad reading?

Gonna put it back together tomorrow with some copper rtv and see if there is any improvement.
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure that affects the reading.
And I feel for you working on this engine.
I have done a lot if work on the NA version and everything is buried under shit, and you have the supercharger to add to the mix
 
I replaced both o2 sensors and fixed the exhaust leak. I pumped a few pounds of pressure into the tailpipe and didn't hear any leaks, so I'm fairly confident that problem is fixed.

However, it still has trouble idling sometimes. Hooked it up to my friends scan tool and at least now I'm getting readings off of the o2 sensors. bank 1 is reading consistently rich and bank2 is mostly rich, but does go lean occasionally. The exhaust certainly smells rich, so at least I'm getting the right readings now. We're going to try timing it again tomorrow with a better timing light to see if I'm just off still.
 
This thing seriously vexes me! Stock timing is supposed to be 10* BTDC. Using the better timing light I can just barely get it to hit that if I turn the distributor as far as it will go one direction. However, it runs kinda crappy like that. Since I have a smaller pulley and I'm pushing more air (8psi), I'm thinking it wants a little more advance than that. So, I pull the distributor and move it back 1 tooth, but then the closest I can get it is about 20* BTDC. I'm thinking it wants to be 12-15*, but I just can't get it there.

Also, the random misfires are back. I think the aftermarket distributors are super touchy and pulling it out over and over is doing something... maybe. Nothing else has changed.

It seems to run "ok" right now, so I think I'm going to just run with it for awhile and see what happens. After BB I may order another distributor direct from Nissan and see if that works better.

Oh, one last thing. My neighbor suggested that part of the idling issue could be my MAF sensor not getting a correct reading. I have an aftermarket cone air filter on it, so maybe it's getting turbulent air? I guess I could try putting the stock air box back on it and see how that does. Unfortunately I already threw it away, so I'd have to go to the junk yard and find one.
 
Try adding some tube to extend the distance between your filter and the maf
 
@Raggedy_Ann has had similar trouble with the MAF on his 6.0L. It will idle rough but runs okay at higher RPM. He said it's due to the MAF being too close to the throttle body. Needs to be at least 12".
 
ashman said:
This thing seriously vexes me! Stock timing is supposed to be 10* BTDC. Using the better timing light I can just barely get it to hit that if I turn the distributor as far as it will go one direction. However, it runs kinda crappy like that. Since I have a smaller pulley and I'm pushing more air (8psi), I'm thinking it wants a little more advance than that. So, I pull the distributor and move it back 1 tooth, but then the closest I can get it is about 20* BTDC. I'm thinking it wants to be 12-15*, but I just can't get it there.

Also, the random misfires are back. I think the aftermarket distributors are super touchy and pulling it out over and over is doing something... maybe. Nothing else has changed.

It seems to run "ok" right now, so I think I'm going to just run with it for awhile and see what happens. After BB I may order another distributor direct from Nissan and see if that works better.

Oh, one last thing. My neighbor suggested that part of the idling issue could be my MAF sensor not getting a correct reading. I have an aftermarket cone air filter on it, so maybe it's getting turbulent air? I guess I could try putting the stock air box back on it and see how that does. Unfortunately I already threw it away, so I'd have to go to the junk yard and find one.
Click to expand...
I had similar problems with my ls. I originally had the maf right in front the throttle body, would run but ran rough at idle and got better with rpm. I ran the intake in the dash. And you can see how I have the tube and maf set up in the photo, ran much better just moving it. Might work for you

20220902_202142.jpg
 
20220902_231502.jpg

This is my current set up. I have about 12" behind the maf, but the filter is right in front of it. Maybe an extension there would help.
 
ashman said:
View attachment 424372

This is my current set up. I have about 12" behind the maf, but the filter is right in front of it. Maybe an extension there would help.
Click to expand...

Add me to the list of folks thinking you need more inlet piping. That turbulent air has no chance to stabilize with such a small distance between the filter and the MAF, so I'd expect sporadic MAF readings.
 
mrk5 said:
Looks like you were getting after it pretty good!
Click to expand...
Way more than I planned, but everyone kept talking about how good this other guy, Danny, did...
Keegan Michael Key Snl GIF by Saturday Night Live
 
centexk5 said:
I guess the spark plugs were causing the bad running issues?
Click to expand...
I was still having a lot of issues, but I replaced the distributor with one I got from the Nissan dealer and that seems to have helped a lot. It was running really well during the race. I still have idle issues, but I think that is related to the intake and MAF sensor.
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
So if it's running better.... when are you going to start playing with the ttb?
Click to expand...
I need to get to work on the 1 ton swap for BYT first, but I'm hoping to work on it this winter.
 
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