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Pinion Nut

Here's the '91 R/V manual take on pinion seal replacement:








The full size photos are here if you want to actually read them:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/561036416UNTMMP

Apparently by '91 GM had already given up on actually repairing stuff, beyond this, complete axle removal/installation is all that is covered. (bits and pieces like front axleshaft u-joint replacement, but nothing like gear setup)
 
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If you're going through pinion seals that fast the surface on your yoke is likely pitted. If it's anything less than shiny smooth, you might want to install a speedi-sleeve . . .
 
Uh oh..

I just did this on my truck. My drive shaft fell out and I had to find the nut and washer. Local GM Dealer just told me to impact it on. So we did. As tight as it would go. We'll see how that turns out I guess...
 
blbikerood said:
I just did this on my truck. My drive shaft fell out and I had to find the nut and washer. Local GM Dealer just told me to impact it on. So we did. As tight as it would go. We'll see how that turns out I guess...
Click to expand...

What front axle? GM D44 fronts don't have crush sleeves so that would be decent advice for that front end.
 
long debated question

Although the removal and installation of a new seal with old bearings and crush sleeve is actually covered in GM's literature or alldata. Its a lesser of two evils in reality. Why is the seal leaking is the real question. As far as I am concarned and most professional re-builders would be this: Dis-assemble the entire axle repalce both pinion bearings, crush sleeve,and seal. Additionally for more leak free install, pick up a speedi sleeve regardless of the condition of the seal surface on the yolk, also you could take the spring out of the seal and twist it together a few turns, re-install the spring then install the newly tighter seal for a tighter seal. I would definetly advise on a crush sleeve eliminator, yes it is a pain in the ass to install but if you get it set up right and the seal ever leaked again, you simply remove the yolk ,replace the seal and torque the nut to 125ft-lbs . If a crush sleeve eliminator is available for any axle being re-built do yourselves a favor and spend the extra time to install it. This also adds to the sleeves ability to literally crushing further under heavy load. ditch the sleeve, eliminate the potential problem before it re-occurs
 
nothing for the 14Bff either

no crush sleeve eliminator for the 14Bff either, im going to Ruff Stuff later in the week to see what they can do about a sleeve and call Ratech to see about shims for the sleeve. The real pisser to the crush sleeve is getting it to start crushing. On a 10 or 12 bolt they will crush with a nice impact, or breaker bar with a pipe wrench on the yolk. On a 14B you will likely have to heat it up with a map gas torch or put it in the press to get it to start crushing. I also found the press technique to be the only method for crushing of all things a sleeve for a D35 for my friends Wrangler. On the larger axles worrying about the sleeve crushing itself with heavy loads is not so much an issue. But the ease of seal changes with little or no extra work involved is awesome , and one of the many reasons for installing the eliminator.
 
After trying to crush 2 or 3 different sleeves on my 10-bolt rear, I gave up and bought an eliminator.

It made things sooooo much easier.
 
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