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Planning ahead for hydro steer and I have a question

cybrfire

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The steering column under the dash can it be modified to accept the 36 spline steering valve that is offered by Performance off road systems? I guess my question is when you stick your head under the dash and look at the steering column right before it goes through the firewall You are seeing a tube that houses the shaft itself correct? Has anybody ever cut this away to get at the actual steering shaft itself? What I want to do is mount the steering valve right up tight to the firewall. I disassembled the column up to the clamp on the firewall. Basically what is there is a shaft with flats on it. I'm thinking I may have to cut the shaft back and weld on a 36 spline female shaft end. Any thoughts/experience on this?
 
Should be possible. But one thing comes to my mind is that the valve should be on the other side of the firewall. Blown lines and seals do not sound fun with high pressure and hot fluid in your lap. My luck it would be one of those pin holes and the hot fluid would cut through my leg like a laser, but not as clean, leaving that hot hydraulic oil under the skin to cause all sorts of problems. Funny, I was actually talking to Sean today about a valve among other things…
 
Yeah, I'm in total agreement with you there. Need it on the outside of the firewall but right up tight to the firewall. My DD has a huge oil stained carpet from a PO that put in a mechanical oil gauge that eventually cut a line I guess. Anyway back on topic, It would seem reasonable to cut away the protective tube if that is what it is and weld a shaft end with the right coupling on it. I don't think welding in this place is of any concern since the only pressure it sees is human input. I guess I'll just have to pull the column tomorrow and see whats in there.
 
Why not just mount it on the frame like a steering box? My buddy's is like that. With full hydro there is no stress on the frame, and it seems like a perfectly good place to put it to me.

Opinions?
 
Yep, I've seen several mounted down there. No cutting or custom stuff required other than mounting the rag joint (or better yet, u-joint). But the best thing is that the lines are very short that way. Long lines are more $$$ and more places to chafe/cut/leak not to mention messy looking if not done right
 
I've got my headers going outside the frame rails so I would like to create as much room there as possible. Why run the exhaust outside the frame rails well, my radiator is going out back and being plumbed in with aluminum tubing that will be inside the frame rails. So to keep heat transfer to a minimum basically and to create space.
 
Sorry for this minor question... but what exactly does hydro steer do? /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
full hydro steer not to be confused with hydro assist replaces all mechanical linkages in your steering system with hydraulics. NO tie rod no drag link no steering box like you think of it now. Just hoses and a cylinder and a valve. You get much improved power and no stress on the frame from a steering box. It also eliminates the problems associated with steering and lifted vehicles.
 
Oooh... How much is that going to set you back... now what is this hydro assist /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif Sorry I hi-jacked your post... just trying to get on track.

Is the full hydro steer ideal for 4x4ing?
 
don't know about the how much yet. Don't want to. Basically it is your power steering pump attached to a valve which most refer to as an orbital valve but I'm not sure about that terminology. That valve is what your steering wheel is hooked to. The hoses go from the valve to the hydraulic cylinder. Cylinder is usually attached physically to the axle itself which facilitates the steering action. Somewhere in the system a resevoir and filter should be plumbed in for the extra capacity required by the cylinder. Most stock pumps wit the resevoir built in don't have the capacity to feed the cylinder.
 
it is ideal for most types of offroading. if done right it can be ideal for everything. but not street legal anywhere. the size of the cylander, lines and pump volume determint he speed and power of the steering.

if you bind up your tires and put pressure on the ram then you can break a lot of stuff if not carefull. i will be going full hydro im thinking. it tends to be more cost effective, and since i wont be driving my blazer on the highway i wont have to worry bout it to much. also the blazer will only be driven on the street once a week or so.
Grant
 
I will upgrade to full hydro eventually, but not before some dedenbear knuckles and maybe forged inner Cs.
 
You could still run it in the cab if you boxed it up incase of a leak. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
but not street legal anywhere.

[/ QUOTE ]

Prove it. This has been brought up MANY times on the Pirate boards and no one has furnished proof of any state outlawing full hydraulic steering.
 
It may be legal but I sure as hell wouldn't run it on the highway... Fitting breaks, line breaks, etc and you have no control.
 
i do recall something about "return to center" which power steering will accomodate, will full hydro?
 
If you use the correct steering valve you will have return to center.
 
All the research I have done leans towards the lack of a DOT mandated steering requirement. I will agree that you may not want to run it down the highway because breakage would be bad, mechanical linkages brake too. When it comes down too it your trusting something either way. Do you inspect your rod ends everytime you head out or just trust that they are OK. There is alot of large equipment out there that run some type of hydraulic steering and they go zipping down the road at a pretty good clip in these parts. One of which comes to mind is some of the farm equipment.
 
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