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Play in new tie-rod ends in Dana 60 factory knuckles.

handloader90

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Ordered new tie rod ends that I was planning on using with heavy wall DOM tube for a HD Tie-Rod.

I ordered P/N's: ES2021L and ES2010R based off of P/N's listed that I've seen.

My original TRE's popped out with little effort from a rubber hammer. No pickle fork was needed.

The holes in the knuckles don't look to have any wear marks or ovaling.

Did I order the wrong junk?

I stuck one of my new drag link ends in the hole and it was a tight fit, the TRE's had play in them.
 
Found these on ECGS. Says they are D60 specific.

Maybe the ones that I currently have are for 1/2 & 3/4 Ton applications...

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My D44 tierod dropped into my D60 just fine. The length of the tierod itself was wrong though.
Can you get the cotter pin in?
 
Pics for reference.

I'm positive the boot isn't supposed to be compressed that much (it doesn't have grease in it).

Now the drag link ends I got for the crossover drag link have a thicker shank where it tapers up. When I put one of the drag link ends in the knuckle it went in there with what felt like the right amount of resistance. I would have to tighten the castle nut to get the shank on the DLE to fully seat.

Also some pics of the TRE holes in the knuckles, the don't seem to be swallowed out or have any irregular wear marks, nice and smooth inside.

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This is what was in there. Again, these came put with just about zero effort with a rubber hammer... Just a few taps and out the came.

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The old tie rods don't seem to have any abnormal wear either.

I can't put my finger on this one lol.

I've already ordered the different TRE's from ECGS.
 
Definitely don't have that in the budget at this point lol.

I'd like to do assist. Maybe when I head your way you can help me with the box.
No worries on the box.

How do those TREs look when laid next to the old ones?.
Id agree the receiving taper looks fine
 
some quick measuring with some calipers should shed some light on the situation. It remember seeing someone else with a similar issue on CK5.
 
some quick measuring with some calipers should shed some light on the situation. It remember seeing someone else with a similar issue on CK5.
The one thing I don't have... I got rid of my calipers when I got out of handloading ammo...

I need to pick up another, the ruler doesn't cut it for stuff like this.
 
The one thing I don't have... I got rid of my calipers when I got out of handloading ammo...

I need to pick up another, the ruler doesn't cut it for stuff like this.
Doesnt need to be off much. If the next set aint ok, have the motor pool guys lend ya some calipers
 
Old TRE vs. new TRE.

A pic of the drag link end ES2026R. The DLE shank is the right size for the hole. I drip it in and it stops, I would have to put a wrench on the castle nut to suck the shank down enough to get the corner pin in. That seems right to me.

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so much super cheep offshore CRAP out there these days .

the tapper is 1.5" per foot .

and also as said even just a tiny bit off = a ton of difference . i found this out years ago on a lift kit install . the new center link was not reamed to the correct depth . it took some fighting with the company but they finaly sent me another and it dropped right in no problems after that .

i now have a reamer in my tool box just incase i ever run in to this again .
 
so much super cheep offshore CRAP out there these days .

the tapper is 1.5" per foot .

and also as said even just a tiny bit off = a ton of difference . i found this out years ago on a lift kit install . the new center link was not reamed to the correct depth . it took some fighting with the company but they finaly sent me another and it dropped right in no problems after that .

i now have a reamer in my tool box just incase i ever run in to this again .
That's what the incoming TRE's are, 1.5" per 1'.
 

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