CK5
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Please help me troubleshoot
- Thread starter Madbomber88
- Start date
For the knuckles, disconnect the tierod ends.
Hook a fish scale in the hole for it, and pull.
Should be 15-20 pounds of force to turn the knuckle.
That in its self shouldn't make it wander I don't think though.
Myself, I always run the sway bar. Not sure if you have yours hooked up. But I'd rather have it than body roll.
As stated above somewhere,,, what's the caster? Should be like +5*-7* if I remember right.
I'm running 40"s with 5" lift and stock steering. Smooth and straight at 75-80 no problem. So definitely not the tire size or lift.
Hook a fish scale in the hole for it, and pull.
Should be 15-20 pounds of force to turn the knuckle.
That in its self shouldn't make it wander I don't think though.
Myself, I always run the sway bar. Not sure if you have yours hooked up. But I'd rather have it than body roll.
As stated above somewhere,,, what's the caster? Should be like +5*-7* if I remember right.
I'm running 40"s with 5" lift and stock steering. Smooth and straight at 75-80 no problem. So definitely not the tire size or lift.
ClintWalkersBlazer
Registered Member
It was good reading all the suggestions as I am having similar problems with my 73 Blazer. Your picture looks good, however, it looks like your front tire is not centered in the wheel-well (?)
ClintWalkersBlazer
Registered Member
I wondered if the front axle was out of alignment . . .
ClintWalkersBlazer
Registered Member
Another topic - I’d appreciate your feedback on my restoration project, which I have on a website called: clintwalkersblazer.com
Thanks
Thanks
I measured the wheel base side to side and I'm within 1/8" (if even that). I will measure the knuckle resistance with the fish scale, so thank you! I am reading a lot from people with similar issues and the common theme is that crossover steering creates a lot of lateral force on the leaf springs and the solution is either a panhard bar or even hydro assist. Thoughts? It makes sense to me so far. I am leaning towards lowering the lift to 2.5" and going with 33's which I figure will only help a little.
I have run crossover steering on my K10 with three different sets (and brands) of leaf springs and it has done just fine, with no issues to report.
IMHO, a track bar on a leaf spring truck is just a Band-Aid, and really takes away from vertical suspension movement.
Those duratrac's look pretty worn, I bet a set of new tires will make a world of difference.
IMHO, a track bar on a leaf spring truck is just a Band-Aid, and really takes away from vertical suspension movement.
Those duratrac's look pretty worn, I bet a set of new tires will make a world of difference.
Hydro assist is cool, you don't need it. Panhard bar with leafs make things bind. Leafs go up and down, panhard goes side to side when suspension cycles. If the leaves are letting the axle move side to side then the bushings are all worn out.
You're 100% right about that. I was holding off on new tires until I nailed down a lift and tire size. Pretty sure I'm going 33s so I should just bite the bullet and do that.
Good point. Maybe I should start with new hangers and poly bushings. That's not a ton of $$
Should the ball joint pre-load be set different than factory spec, given the lift and tire size? If so, what is the rule of thumb?
My '70 has crossover with only a small steering stabilizer. It drives fine.
No panhard bar.
No panhard bar.
I've got to figure this out as it's driving me nuts. I see lots of twist/movement in the rear front spring shackles (these are ORD heavy duty shackle hangers from the previous owner) when the truck is parked, running, and you steer left to right. I would imagine when the wheels are rotating, that is diminished greatly. Best way to explain the steering at speed is like steering a boat.
I went back and re-read your 1st post.
And now I happen to remember that you need to have the steering box centered to have it be in the tighter portion of the worm gear to rack mesh.
So how far off of center is the steering wheel?
Is it only the steering wheel that's off and the column is straight? (Difficult, but not impossible)
Is the drag link little bit too long and not allowing enough adjustment to get the steering wheel centered?
You will get some movement at the front shackles and more when there is more resistance to turning, like when stopped on pavement. I honestly can't give you a measurement to expect as normal.
Yes, they do drive a little like a boat, even though the body roll is opposite of how i remember a boat behaving. However, that doesn't mean that there isn't a problem with your truck, you just haven't found it yet.
And now I happen to remember that you need to have the steering box centered to have it be in the tighter portion of the worm gear to rack mesh.
So how far off of center is the steering wheel?
Is it only the steering wheel that's off and the column is straight? (Difficult, but not impossible)
Is the drag link little bit too long and not allowing enough adjustment to get the steering wheel centered?
You will get some movement at the front shackles and more when there is more resistance to turning, like when stopped on pavement. I honestly can't give you a measurement to expect as normal.
Yes, they do drive a little like a boat, even though the body roll is opposite of how i remember a boat behaving. However, that doesn't mean that there isn't a problem with your truck, you just haven't found it yet.
It looks like the steering wheel alignment is just that the steering shaft (with 30 spline Borgeson coupler) just need to be reclocked to the correct center, or at least that is the working theory. Right now the steering wheel is off just about exactly 90 degrees to the right. That's an interesting theory on the drag link. It's what ORD sent me based on my 4" of lift. It's hard to describe exactly, but the responsiveness is just nowhere near any other K5 I've had or driven. My other ones respond like a Porsche compared to this one.
Ok, good to know that you have driven an old leaf-sprung truck before and not just late model IFS.
Part of my logic is that many OEM vehicles came from the factory with a variation of the crossover steering and people were good with driving them.
So there has to be something or multiple things adding up to what you are experiencing.
Just gotta figure it out. Trying to help without being hands-on can be a challenge sometimes, obviously.
Part of my logic is that many OEM vehicles came from the factory with a variation of the crossover steering and people were good with driving them.
So there has to be something or multiple things adding up to what you are experiencing.
Just gotta figure it out. Trying to help without being hands-on can be a challenge sometimes, obviously.
