nothing puckers your sphincter more than having the blade fly up,then crash to the pavement when your going 30+ mph on a dry tar road....
Last edited:
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
PLOW MACHINE / sleeping quietly : 237 6 shifter levers !
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
Why did it put my text in the quote?^^^
Weird,I never hit "quote" when I posted !--unless I hit the button without realizing it...
Cause you typed in the wrong place? You should be able to fix that with the edit button.
I've tried 6 times now!
As it sits now, you're missing the closing bracket. Fix that and you should be good.
Haha, I just made it worse.
old school fishers had a extra chain for road transport to hold the blade up and let pressure off lift ram .
and the correct hook for a old fisher has a square tab of steel welded on it to make the hook take the chain and then turn 90* and drop down in the hook body .
but even the correct fisher hook is not bullet proof . . . . had 1 pop off on me 1 time up and turn and out the hook .
and the correct hook for a old fisher has a square tab of steel welded on it to make the hook take the chain and then turn 90* and drop down in the hook body .
but even the correct fisher hook is not bullet proof . . . . had 1 pop off on me 1 time up and turn and out the hook .
I have a transport chain,but it is long enough to let the plow "almost" hit the pavement ,if I hook it to the last link...
I prefer having it "almost" hit the pavement because in the event I might lose control trying to avoid an accident,or lost my brakes,etc,and end up having to ram a snowbank to stop the truck,I can lower the blade enough to lessen any impact damage and keep it from just flying up over the banking..(had that happen twice in my other plow trucks !)..
My plow lift hook is likely not the original,but I see no evidence of the original loop welded to the lift frame having been replaced or re-welded...(I did have to build up the loop where the hook cuts into it with weld though,it was getting thin )...
I tried several methods to keep the chain in the hook..
First,I tried putting a bolt thru the links just under the hook..
It helped,but would still let it slip off,and made getting the chain back on much tougher...
I've tried using zip ties to hold the chain to the hook--those lasted about one pass!..then I went to a worm gear hose clamp,that stayed on about 5 minutes before it was torn off,then I thought of the wire rope clamp and decided to try that--it is bullet proof,but it makes taking the plow off and hooking it back up take longer,which sucks if its snowing out..I use self locking nuts on it so they cant back off and dissapear,but you have to use an open end wrench to tighten them..
I prefer having it "almost" hit the pavement because in the event I might lose control trying to avoid an accident,or lost my brakes,etc,and end up having to ram a snowbank to stop the truck,I can lower the blade enough to lessen any impact damage and keep it from just flying up over the banking..(had that happen twice in my other plow trucks !)..
My plow lift hook is likely not the original,but I see no evidence of the original loop welded to the lift frame having been replaced or re-welded...(I did have to build up the loop where the hook cuts into it with weld though,it was getting thin )...
I tried several methods to keep the chain in the hook..
First,I tried putting a bolt thru the links just under the hook..
It helped,but would still let it slip off,and made getting the chain back on much tougher...
I've tried using zip ties to hold the chain to the hook--those lasted about one pass!..then I went to a worm gear hose clamp,that stayed on about 5 minutes before it was torn off,then I thought of the wire rope clamp and decided to try that--it is bullet proof,but it makes taking the plow off and hooking it back up take longer,which sucks if its snowing out..I use self locking nuts on it so they cant back off and dissapear,but you have to use an open end wrench to tighten them..
here ya go .
I can't see the tags in your text, but I think you inserted a [ quote ] tag instead of a [ /quote ] tag. So you opened a second quote instead of closing the first one. What you had before was [/quote (visible because you were missing the ] that closes the tag).
This is turning into good HTML tag practice.
so local dealer to me ( 1.25hr drive each way ) has been cleaning out the back barn .
old stock light used item I got today .
truck side frame work for my style 8ft-9ft fisher plows.
1 step closer faster / and 2 trucks in the end if I so wish .
old stock light used item I got today .
truck side frame work for my style 8ft-9ft fisher plows.
1 step closer faster / and 2 trucks in the end if I so wish .
I have the same push frame for my '85 Burb,but whoever had it first had cut and lowered where the push beam goes down 4",probably to compensate for a 4" lift kit on the truck it used to be on..
It sits quite low to the ground now,especially with the dinky 225/75/15" tires on it now--like 4" from the asphalt!....at least if I ever use the truck on the street I can lift it or put larger tires on it though..The Burb has an 8 foot Diamond blade on it--thing makes my Fisher 7.5 foot one look like a toy..has a upper pivot pin on the a-frame and its twice as beefy all around..
My '82 K2500 has a home brewed push frame--someone simply boxed in the frame rails near the front and welded the usual push bar to the heavy 3/8" plates they used--whoever did it was an excellent welder,and when I got the truck,it had no head gear--I scored the setup like yours off a C-60 at a salvage yard for 50 bucks,all I had to do was bolt it on..the push bar does hang pretty low,but I have never bottomed it out on anything in street driving..
I have whipped the poor truck & plow without much mercy since I got in in 2003 with no issues..
My '77 GMC K2500 had the Fisher push frame too,and so did my '71 GMC K1500...neither truck ever had any cracks develop around the steering boxes,I think the push frame beefed up the frame enough to prevent the usual flexing that cracks the frame there..
It sits quite low to the ground now,especially with the dinky 225/75/15" tires on it now--like 4" from the asphalt!....at least if I ever use the truck on the street I can lift it or put larger tires on it though..The Burb has an 8 foot Diamond blade on it--thing makes my Fisher 7.5 foot one look like a toy..has a upper pivot pin on the a-frame and its twice as beefy all around..
My '82 K2500 has a home brewed push frame--someone simply boxed in the frame rails near the front and welded the usual push bar to the heavy 3/8" plates they used--whoever did it was an excellent welder,and when I got the truck,it had no head gear--I scored the setup like yours off a C-60 at a salvage yard for 50 bucks,all I had to do was bolt it on..the push bar does hang pretty low,but I have never bottomed it out on anything in street driving..
I have whipped the poor truck & plow without much mercy since I got in in 2003 with no issues..
My '77 GMC K2500 had the Fisher push frame too,and so did my '71 GMC K1500...neither truck ever had any cracks develop around the steering boxes,I think the push frame beefed up the frame enough to prevent the usual flexing that cracks the frame there..
yep diamond plows were beefy also back in the day .
little story about them . the diamond designer was once a fisher designer . . . . . . that's why they look so close in the early days and some stuff can even swap over.
now there just a little heaver duty Meyers hunk or metal .
little story about them . the diamond designer was once a fisher designer . . . . . . that's why they look so close in the early days and some stuff can even swap over.
now there just a little heaver duty Meyers hunk or metal .
today was a good day . . . . . had to use my welder and my grinder and my cut off wheel .
but now she is on the new truck AND fits past the military cucv grill guard unit.
before & first test fit pics . darn thing just hit were the headgear brace plates go on . s.o.a.b oh well time for play time in shop .
but now she is on the new truck AND fits past the military cucv grill guard unit.
before & first test fit pics . darn thing just hit were the headgear brace plates go on . s.o.a.b oh well time for play time in shop .
then after removal / clean up / set 1" forward and all welded back up she is set .
once cleaned up and painted to the untrained eye no one will notice . . . . but some might .
once cleaned up and painted to the untrained eye no one will notice . . . . but some might .
Nice "customizing" !...nothing wrong with making things fit right!..
I do not know the vintage of the Diamond plow I have is,but it's a real beefy commercial duty looking unit,thats a lot heavier than the Fisher blade..the push frame is doubled up 3/8" angle irons to make a square tube,and its all gusseted...
I'd use that blade on the pickup if it fit--but the Fisher plow frame on the Burb has a 25" spread at the a-frame pins,and the pickup's has 22" at the a-frame pins..I could make up an adapter plate I suppose,but haven't bothered too...
The lift frame I got off the C-60 sits about 6" higher than the normal one used on 1/2-1 tons,so my plow lights stick up quite a bit above the hood--guy at the inspection place said "that could be considered a hazard,those lights blocking your view"...but I use the drivers side one as a guide if anything,and have become so used to it,it would feel weird not having it there...
He let it slide,seeing the lights are adjusted right,and are not blinding oncoming vehicles..but they are right in your line of sight to some degree..
I suppose I could re-mount them under the supports to lower them,but then the lift frame will likely hit and break them when you lift the blade up all the way..
One bummer is if I want to take the grille off my truck,I think I'd have to cut off those upper truss bar mount tabs the former owner welded right to the frame plates he boxed in the frame rails with--they protrude right behind the stock bumper,and are so close to the grille,it cant be removed,even after taking the plow lift frame off..
A slight oversight that whoever did the mods,didn't think of,or care about I guess...it wont be fun if I need a new tranny cooler--I also had to mount horns under the bumper when the OEM ones behind the grille crapped out--you cant get to them!..
I also couldn't get at the body mount bolt on the drivers side to tighten it up more,due to the grille not being able to come out..might end up having to take it off in pieces and make a "custom" metal grille someday --if I keep it much longer...whole nose is rotted on it pretty good now,the radiator support "looks" decent,but may have rot around the rubber cushions..the inner & front fenders are roached!..I keep adding more patches every year...
I do not know the vintage of the Diamond plow I have is,but it's a real beefy commercial duty looking unit,thats a lot heavier than the Fisher blade..the push frame is doubled up 3/8" angle irons to make a square tube,and its all gusseted...
I'd use that blade on the pickup if it fit--but the Fisher plow frame on the Burb has a 25" spread at the a-frame pins,and the pickup's has 22" at the a-frame pins..I could make up an adapter plate I suppose,but haven't bothered too...
The lift frame I got off the C-60 sits about 6" higher than the normal one used on 1/2-1 tons,so my plow lights stick up quite a bit above the hood--guy at the inspection place said "that could be considered a hazard,those lights blocking your view"...but I use the drivers side one as a guide if anything,and have become so used to it,it would feel weird not having it there...
He let it slide,seeing the lights are adjusted right,and are not blinding oncoming vehicles..but they are right in your line of sight to some degree..
I suppose I could re-mount them under the supports to lower them,but then the lift frame will likely hit and break them when you lift the blade up all the way..
One bummer is if I want to take the grille off my truck,I think I'd have to cut off those upper truss bar mount tabs the former owner welded right to the frame plates he boxed in the frame rails with--they protrude right behind the stock bumper,and are so close to the grille,it cant be removed,even after taking the plow lift frame off..
A slight oversight that whoever did the mods,didn't think of,or care about I guess...it wont be fun if I need a new tranny cooler--I also had to mount horns under the bumper when the OEM ones behind the grille crapped out--you cant get to them!..
I also couldn't get at the body mount bolt on the drivers side to tighten it up more,due to the grille not being able to come out..might end up having to take it off in pieces and make a "custom" metal grille someday --if I keep it much longer...whole nose is rotted on it pretty good now,the radiator support "looks" decent,but may have rot around the rubber cushions..the inner & front fenders are roached!..I keep adding more patches every year...
your frame with tab spacing @ 22" wide is for 7ft6" down fishers.
the 8ft-up fishers are 25" spacing .
and light duty truck side stuff is all thinner than heavy duty truck side stuff also . easy was to spot them if you know what your looking for .
yep few old original diamonds I have seen they are MASIVE
the 8ft-up fishers are 25" spacing .
and light duty truck side stuff is all thinner than heavy duty truck side stuff also . easy was to spot them if you know what your looking for .
yep few old original diamonds I have seen they are MASIVE
Yeah,my Fisher is a 7'6" blade,and very "light duty" compared to ones I had on other trucks--this one's "A" frame is only two pieces of 3" channel iron ,welded right to a thick 1" bushing for the main pivot pin on the blade,and last March one of the channels broke off completely just beyond the welded area,it cracked...right as I was finishing up plowing my driveway for what turned out to be the last time,thankfully..
I had to weld it back together,and I added a 1/4" flat stock plate about 3" wide and about 18" long to the sides of both channels, and wrapped it around the bushing, around the "V"--then I welded in a few "cross braces" to the "triangle"of scrap angle iron pieces--it had none originally near the pivot pin..the only cross brace it had factory was just angle iron welded to the channels,and one side of that was broke off too,I just put it back in place and welded it back on good..
I feel more confident about it holding up now,especially after seeing how much punishment it took to break it over a dozen years of heavy duty use--I was rather amazed it held up that long,seeing how "wimpy" the A frame is in comparison to my other Fishers..those had the double angle iron push frames,and the blades had 3 springs,despite being 7'6" ones,like the 8 footers had..
If I remember right all my other 7'6" Fishers had the 25" spacing too,but someone could have easily swapped on a A frame from an 8 footer onto the shorter blades--or maybe all the old ones were just plain beefier and used wider spacing ?..
I had to weld it back together,and I added a 1/4" flat stock plate about 3" wide and about 18" long to the sides of both channels, and wrapped it around the bushing, around the "V"--then I welded in a few "cross braces" to the "triangle"of scrap angle iron pieces--it had none originally near the pivot pin..the only cross brace it had factory was just angle iron welded to the channels,and one side of that was broke off too,I just put it back in place and welded it back on good..
I feel more confident about it holding up now,especially after seeing how much punishment it took to break it over a dozen years of heavy duty use--I was rather amazed it held up that long,seeing how "wimpy" the A frame is in comparison to my other Fishers..those had the double angle iron push frames,and the blades had 3 springs,despite being 7'6" ones,like the 8 footers had..
If I remember right all my other 7'6" Fishers had the 25" spacing too,but someone could have easily swapped on a A frame from an 8 footer onto the shorter blades--or maybe all the old ones were just plain beefier and used wider spacing ?..
Lookin' good. I think the brush guard will be a good fit for it. Is that un-visible license plate going to be relocated?
