muddybuddy said:now how much did you find the 14b detroit for?
$409 for the 14B detroit
CK5
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Poll: Detroit or Lockright locker?
- Thread starter RockinChevy
- Start date
$409 for the 14B detroit
thats a good price, best ive found is $389, but the company left a sour taste in my mouth so i wont recommend them to you, sucks for them.
Which company was it?
Performance Offroad Center, they've got the cheapest prices and will price match, but their customer service is terrible. they are over on pirate. i made a thread about them to be ware of them on here. ill see if i can dig it up
Yeah I think the $409 price is from ringpinion.com... I still haven't checked around locally...
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
BadAss90K5 said:I hear 5.13s and 37s are okay for 10bolts.
stay 10 bolt, no reason you cant make it live, a lock right is not only cheaper but will also be less harsh on the front axel than a detroit would.
there are plenty of locals who can tell you the same thing.
heres the thread. the guy tried to tell me i ordered the wrong stuff and argued with me...why would i order ford 60 parts for a chevy? if he hadnt accused me of ordering the wrong parts it would have been cool. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162407&highlight=PORC
supersize75k5: Hey Shawn, what's up? Long time no see ha ha
muddybuddy: yeah I'll be sure to steer clear of PORC. thanks for sharing the thread and your input. much appreciated.
muddybuddy: yeah I'll be sure to steer clear of PORC. thanks for sharing the thread and your input. much appreciated.
pauly383
Daddy383
Real world wheeling in AZ , yes . Why not spend some money on a 10 bolt front . D60's aren't cheap anymore , nor are they easy to come by . 1/2 ton front is fine for a Blazer . Especially for the few first few season as you get seattime in the rocks .garlicbreath said:
We have plenty of year round wheeling , and the local yards are hip to the need and price D60's accordingly .
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
pauly383 said:
So come to my place and pick up the darn dana 60's I can't get rid of for 800.00
pauly383
Daddy383
garlicbreath said:
Because , to me , they are not worth even 800 bucks . They are available brand new , and assembled , aftermarket with non Dana made housings . So until those are more popular , and drive our used prices down , I will pass .
And when the prices do come down to what they are really worth , mine will have six lug hubs . My wife works hard too , and bought me my new six lug rims
to my wife .
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
a 44 or 10 bolt is just fine for most of us, people who have built or bought a 60 are proud for a reason, it cost alot, can be a headache and may or may not be worth the down time to make it all happen time or money wise. for me and the buggy its a no brainer so I dont have to worry as much with a big block and 42's.
a 260.00 lock right is not to heavy of a hit for most people who can spare some cash and it gets the job done and has pretty good feed back from those here and on pirate as well. if you are only running 38s or lower a 10 bolt with a lock right can be done, upgrade the shafts and joints when you can and it should work for most wheeling.
as for the cost of building a 60, 3500 to 4500 is not hard to spend, thats not to far off from what a new aftermarket one cost, and you dont have to build it, find it, clean it and you get some nice piece of mind and can slap it in and go..not a bad option if you can afford it.
a 260.00 lock right is not to heavy of a hit for most people who can spare some cash and it gets the job done and has pretty good feed back from those here and on pirate as well. if you are only running 38s or lower a 10 bolt with a lock right can be done, upgrade the shafts and joints when you can and it should work for most wheeling.
as for the cost of building a 60, 3500 to 4500 is not hard to spend, thats not to far off from what a new aftermarket one cost, and you dont have to build it, find it, clean it and you get some nice piece of mind and can slap it in and go..not a bad option if you can afford it.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
The Detroit will be more durable but with 37" tires, & chromo axles you will be at a crap shoot as to what will break anyway. That combo is known to snap any number of items including R&P, locker, axles, hubs.
As for using CTM's there are cheaper options that are probably just as strong. If you are buying your Chromo's from Desert Rat then ask them for the chromo kit price with Super Joints. They are very close to CTM's in strength and you get a much better price then CTM's will be because the "kit" is much cheaper then buying the axleshafts & joints seperate. I personally am going to use Longfield D44 joints in my axles when I can afford them. They have a LIFETIME warranty against breakage & are about $50ea cheaper then CTM's. If you can break the Longfield joints he replaces them.
Since you have a 700R4 tranny either 4.88's or 5.13's are a good choice for gears. 4.88's are a little stronger but if I had to do it over I would have went with 5.13's in my 10/14 combo.
As long as you are smart with the throttle then the combo of 37" tires, chromo's, 5.13's & lockright should hold up for awhile. Keep in mind that Hydro assist will put extra strain on your balljoints & axlejoints if you are trying to steer when bound up. I personally don't run it on my truck and probably won't.
Honestly with the money you are about to drop on all the 10 bolt stuff if you can find a D60 for a reasonable price you might be better off going that route. Beefed up 1/2 tons are run buy alot of the AZ guys including myself but for the amount of money invested at one time a D60 might be a better option.
I have some nice parts in my 10 bolt but I bought my axle w/gears & locker already installed. I also built the rest of my axle over 3 years so I only dropped little bits of money hear and there not one huge chunk in a short period.
If you can find a serviceable D60 for $500-800 it might be a sound investment. I know you already have money dropped into the crossover but some of those parts will be reusable and you can resell the rest.
If you are set on a 10 bolt front that cool too. I run one with little problems. Just know that 37" is the max size tires you can run and wheel heavily with and expect any longevity. Also know that you need to drive with your brain & eyes not with you foot & ego. If you try and big dawg it with the throttle & ego then you will be spending alot more money on parts & alot of time fixing it.
Harley
As for using CTM's there are cheaper options that are probably just as strong. If you are buying your Chromo's from Desert Rat then ask them for the chromo kit price with Super Joints. They are very close to CTM's in strength and you get a much better price then CTM's will be because the "kit" is much cheaper then buying the axleshafts & joints seperate. I personally am going to use Longfield D44 joints in my axles when I can afford them. They have a LIFETIME warranty against breakage & are about $50ea cheaper then CTM's. If you can break the Longfield joints he replaces them.
Since you have a 700R4 tranny either 4.88's or 5.13's are a good choice for gears. 4.88's are a little stronger but if I had to do it over I would have went with 5.13's in my 10/14 combo.
As long as you are smart with the throttle then the combo of 37" tires, chromo's, 5.13's & lockright should hold up for awhile. Keep in mind that Hydro assist will put extra strain on your balljoints & axlejoints if you are trying to steer when bound up. I personally don't run it on my truck and probably won't.
Honestly with the money you are about to drop on all the 10 bolt stuff if you can find a D60 for a reasonable price you might be better off going that route. Beefed up 1/2 tons are run buy alot of the AZ guys including myself but for the amount of money invested at one time a D60 might be a better option.
I have some nice parts in my 10 bolt but I bought my axle w/gears & locker already installed. I also built the rest of my axle over 3 years so I only dropped little bits of money hear and there not one huge chunk in a short period.
If you can find a serviceable D60 for $500-800 it might be a sound investment. I know you already have money dropped into the crossover but some of those parts will be reusable and you can resell the rest.
If you are set on a 10 bolt front that cool too. I run one with little problems. Just know that 37" is the max size tires you can run and wheel heavily with and expect any longevity. Also know that you need to drive with your brain & eyes not with you foot & ego. If you try and big dawg it with the throttle & ego then you will be spending alot more money on parts & alot of time fixing it.
Harley
supersize75k5 said:stay 10 bolt, no reason you cant make it live, a lock right is not only cheaper but will also be less harsh on the front axel than a detroit would.
there are plenty of locals who can tell you the same thing.
????
A Lock-right and a Detroit basically function the exact same way. I have no idea of how a Lock-right is "less harsh on the front front axle" than a Detroit.
An ARB also falls into this same catergory. It's not going to help a 10-bolt survive any longer than any other locker. You put the most stress on the parts when you have the locker engaged because you need it, like one tire stuck down in a rut or under a ledge. You are not going to break something while cruising around on a flat dirt trail whether the locker is engaged or not.
In any case, spending that type of coin on a front 10-bolt is simply "polishing a turd". I would probably just get the Lock-right because it's cheaper, and therefore you have less money wrapped up in the 10-bolt when you part it out.
BL1TZKRIEG
1/2 ton status
how are the road manners with the lockright, is it something you could dd
and take on long road trips and still be injoyable
and take on long road trips and still be injoyable
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Maybe somebody should mention that to Allan's D44.Hossbaby50 said:
42's driven by a BB on 5+ rated trails, and no breakage. 
kinda off topic but I heard a funny story yesterday. I was talking to a guy who is running 44s on a 10b front thats locked. he has a 14b rear and said most of the time he only uses 2wd. said he is scared to put it in 4wd cause every time he does he breaks an axle or u-joint. go figure. then comes the funny part, he tells me that he thinks there is something screwed up in his axle causing it to break cause those $30 u-joints shouldnt break that easy.
I was thinking yeah maybe your tire size is whats screwed up but I just laughed and said he should see about getting that fixed before he wheels too much.
he has a 14b rear and said most of the time he only uses 2wd. said he is scared to put it in 4wd cause every time he does he breaks an axle or u-joint. go figure. then comes the funny part, he tells me that he thinks there is something screwed up in his axle causing it to break cause those $30 u-joints shouldnt break that easy. I was thinking yeah maybe your tire size is whats screwed up but I just laughed and said he should see about getting that fixed before he wheels too much.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
MaxPF said:Maybe somebody should mention that to Allan's D44.
Ya, I know Allen. He is one of the exceptions to the rule but eventually it will catch up to him. He is looking for a D60 after he saw Rob & Mikey snap chromo D44 stubs in Parker w/37" tires. Allen does have chromo's which is the reason he is getting away with it sofar. The other reason is because he is lighter then most of us & displays great throttle control. If he steps on the BBC when he is bound up wheeling it is all over for the D44.
Harley
