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POR-15 or paint

Topdown

Topdown

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I have my project frame clean and bare (bare steel) and will be at the point of decision here in a day or two as to what I should do with it.

Should I POR-15 it? There is very little rust, light surface that was mostly removed when I took the frame to bare steel and a few little spots of pitted rust where it was obvious a metal to metal contact spot.

So...

POR-15 or primer/paint?
 
they sell a product for that, its called metal ready. you just spray it on bare metal and wait for it to dry then brush the por over it. good as new:waytogo:
 
Topdown said:
since I have never used POR, can it be used on bare/clean steel with no rust on it? does it still give the same durability?
Click to expand...
You can paint this stuff on a rusty surface as long as there is no loose rust and it will seal the rust in.
 
mudjunkie 82 said:
You can paint this stuff on a rusty surface as long as there is no loose rust and it will seal the rust in.
Click to expand...

with the rust sealed in wont it keep rusting on the inside? or will it stop since theres no oxygen to further the oxidation process?
 
85burbanator said:
with the rust sealed in wont it keep rusting on the inside? or will it stop since theres no oxygen to further the oxidation process?
Click to expand...
It seals it off so there is no more oxygen to further the rust.
 
How clean is it???
If there is no rust...I'd use epoxy primer...
the acids and rust prohibitors...are the best.

POR15 is just for sufficating rust..
I used it on my purple k5 about 10 years ago..
Most of it.. has flaked-off... (Sure I did it right)
 
its pretty damn clean... there is one section about 12" long that is mildly pitted but otherwise there are no rust spots.

Thats one reason I was thinking of primer/paint but this is going to be the frame of a trail rig... I want something hard and as durable as possible so I dont have to go back and touch it up after every run to keep it from rusting.

I am thinking of using the "hard nosed paint" from POR to paint the body of the truggy for its durability.
 
For sure POR primer and finish, after fabbing my buds J**P frame I used it and it looked awesome. Also I thought it was going to get nicked a few times, HA tough as nails!
 
To give you an idea how tough it is after I finished the frame I put the cab back on the frame.I decided to do the firewall with por. I was using Aircraft stripper to remove the old paint, I spilled some by Accident on the frame. I could not believe it did not hurt the Por at all. Aircraft stripper is some wicked stuff.
 
JK5 said:
How clean is it???
If there is no rust...I'd use epoxy primer...
the acids and rust prohibitors...are the best.

POR15 is just for sufficating rust..
I used it on my purple k5 about 10 years ago..
Most of it.. has flaked-off... (Sure I did it right)
Click to expand...


wow i put it on my axels 4 years ago and it only chips whit a hamer -- or rock rash
 
ramjet gmc said:
wow i put it on my axels 4 years ago and it only chips whit a hamer -- or rock rash
Click to expand...

On frames and axles...it works better.
The POR-15 I sprayed on the pan...flaked-off.
What I have found with POR-15 is...
when you spray the underbody..around the seams..
Since POR is so heavy..and doesn't flex much...
it cracks...and allows moisture to get behind it..
Then the moisture gets trapped...and rust holes start.

I lost a Texas k5 pan to that stuff.

The k30 frame I'm working on has that stuff on it too...
Sure...it's probably been on there for a 10 years...but it's flaking off too.

I guess...I like using the new tech urathanes/epoxies..
they cost as much...and last much longer.
 
To POR-15 a frame...takes longer also..
I can spray 2 coats of epoxy...let it flash 1 hour...then spray color.
With POR-15...dry time is much longer..it takes at least a day to get out of dust...and you need to let it dry for a day before color coating.
 
I've used POR-15 a long time,had mixed results--I found it seems to work better when brushed on right over rusted metal(thats been wirebrushed to get all the loose stuff off first) than it does on clean bare metal--I painted a sandblasted frame and it was coming off in about a year,another one I just cleaned off the grime and painted over the surface rust and it stayed like new for 5 years,then it finally started to fade and peel some..it needs the rust to cause the chemical reaction to harden it right I guess...it lasts forever inside the truck cab on floors,etc--..but for all the expense,I think a good prep job and painting with Rustoleum or similar industrial paints would have similar results--here in new england,not even POR-15 can stop mother nature--only slows her down a little!.It does work better than regular paint,but sometimes I wonder if its really worth it--and its kind of hard to clean up,dont get any on your hootas!!

This new forum is going to take some getting used too--I miss the smiley's already-----
 
JK5 said:
On frames and axles...it works better.
The POR-15 I sprayed on the pan...flaked-off.
What I have found with POR-15 is...
when you spray the underbody..around the seams..
Since POR is so heavy..and doesn't flex much...
it cracks...and allows moisture to get behind it..
Then the moisture gets trapped...and rust holes start.

I lost a Texas k5 pan to that stuff.

The k30 frame I'm working on has that stuff on it too...
Sure...it's probably been on there for a 10 years...but it's flaking off too.

I guess...I like using the new tech urathanes/epoxies..
they cost as much...and last much longer.
Click to expand...

i tend to agree.. if its a problem area with rust that can't be cleaned, its an alternative. god knows i use gallons of the stuff in boats. but if i have clean steel, its zinc, epoxy, urethane... definitely the more proper way to do it...
 
ryoken said:
i tend to agree.. if its a problem area with rust that can't be cleaned, its an alternative. god knows i use gallons of the stuff in boats. but if i have clean steel, its zinc, epoxy, urethane... definitely the more proper way to do it...
Click to expand...

Oh...yah...zinc...now your talkin'!!! :thumb: :thumb:
 
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