POWER WINDOW ISSUE

[k5Thumper]

Hey all, got an 88 K5 with silverado trim. Driver side PW suddlenly quit working properly. It'll go down 1/3 of the way then grind/hum loudly, then I have to press it down then it happens again 2/3 of the way. Had the door panel off wehn I replaced the vent window seals and didn't see anything. The window is still in the tracks. Is there a simple fix? Anyone else have this issue?

 

[rampage]

Before any one goes blaming the motor, IIRC the motor makes several revolutions to go from top to bottom. It may be binding causing the gears in the motor to skip. I’d do the easy check first and look at the ‘lube’ in the tracks that the rollers ride in. The original lube turns to a hard gunk and binds the window tracks. I relubed mine with marine grease. Also check the rollers for flat spots. Just as a side note, I did a test on a motor I disassembled and reconditioned and it was able to lift 50 lbs before it stalled so the motor aren’t weak. You can always swap in the passenger side motor to check if that’s your problem though.

 

[Abusfullofnuns]

Had the same problem in one of my rears on the suburban. Rock auto had the motors for $15. Figured I wouldn't futz with it for that much. Ordered 3 of them. Replaced the grinding one that wouldn't go all the way down. Now it's twice as fast as the rest. Also have the relay mod done, so it's not power delivery.

Good info above, the old grease was nasty.

 

[k5Thumper]

Thanks fellas pulling the door panels off this weekend and checking them, hopefully it’s that simple !

 

[nutt7]

Mine did something similar, but it was more clunking/clicking that a drill makes when you reach the torque limit setting. Eventually it quit doing it and the motor hardly moved, then quit. I replaced the motor, cleaned and lubed the regulator and tracks, and it did indeed fix it.

 

[k5Thumper]

Is it pretty easy to replace the motor if needed? Whats all involved?

 

[nutt7]

Is it pretty easy to replace the motor if needed? Whats all involved?

Yes. A drill is needed, and maybe a clamp to hold the scissor arms together to prevent the spring from hurting somebody when the motor comes off. Basically the original motor is held to the regulator by rivets, so you drill them out. The new motor comes with nuts and bolts to replace the rivets. They recommend putting a hole in the regulator arms to pass a bolt through for the spring retention...I used a c-clamp somehow...foggy on that part...also foggy on the optimum position to put the window for removal. The longest part is cleaning the regulator