Pretty bad oil leak with my 6.2 after stuck in mudhole, HELP UPDATE

[Dabba]

I just got my m1008 like a month ago. I just got new mud tires on it and wanted to test it, espcially after i pulled a stuck wrangler out of the spot i was in, well i got stuck, stuck up the front bumper and doors in muddy water slime crap. She sat for a few hours while we made every attempt go get it out, finally ending in paying a guy with a wrecker 5 bills. As we got back to the truck to pull it out, i noticed she was smoking more than usual, couldnt tell if it was oil burning or not. Long story short we get it pulled out and shortly after discover shes leaking oil pretty quickly. My house is only 5-10 mins out so i decide to shoot for it.

Well, as i get close to my house i hear what sounds like a glass marble bouncing around, in tune with the rpms of the motor, i took it as a sign she was critically low on oil but i was around the block from my house, so i got there and cut the engine asap. I get under and theres what looks like oil leaking from between the oil pan and tranny. Theres also some oil on my starter (but a second look shows none on top of the starter) and the filter. Shes not leaking oil while sitting, and i cant start her because the starter just clicks so im guessing its all gummed up.

At first i thought it was the Rear Main, but the smoking and the marble noise makes me worry i did some serious damage. I also heard it could be the CDR being blocked and is building up pressure in the motor? So oil would be pushed out of seals and gaskets? What/where is the cdr and how do i check it? I also head it could be from the valve covers or maybe its a head gasket? Could i have cracked the block? I did bottom out in the mudhole but i didnt go in fast at all, kinda crawled in. What could cause all these symtoms from being in the water/bottoming out? Im so worried i blew the motor and she wont even start it makes me sad.

Shes stuck parked out in the street now and its so depressing. I was thinking i could try the rear main myself as well as do all the fluids if i replace the started in the street and limp it to my grandmothers house if i can use the garage (too damn cold out to do any serious work, esp in the street) Otherwise im gonna bring it to my mechanic and im thinking 500-1000 right there.

Anyone got any ideas? I reposted this in more detail here from the garage, figure it belongs here.

 

[imiceman44]

First thing I would do is after it sat, check the oil level, if it's high, you have water in the oil.
If it's low then something is pushing oil out which could most likely be the CDR, don't ask me where it is.
If the oil checks out not too high and not below minimum, try to start it, if it still won't start afetr it sat then take it out and either take it appart and clean it or change it.
Get it inside a garage and then we can go from there but these are the first things you want to for now, and also check your diffs, most likely you have water in them too.

 

[Dabba]

yeah i was gonna change all fluids. Forgot to mention i did check the oil. Its a cm above the end of the stick which im guessing is about 2qts low. You think its the cdr or could it be low from the leak too?

 

[imiceman44]

yeah i was gonna change all fluids. Forgot to mention i did check the oil. Its a cm above the end of the stick which im guessing is about 2qts low. You think its the cdr or could it be low from the leak too?

If it low, that's better than high, it means it leaked somehow, now I am assuming before you got in the mud it wasn't leaking like this so my assumption is that something happened that forced the oil out which most likely is the CDR.
If you do change the oil, check when you first open the drain plug if any water comes out.

 

[Dabba]

If it low, that's better than high, it means it leaked somehow, now I am assuming before you got in the mud it wasn't leaking like this so my assumption is that something happened that forced the oil out which most likely is the CDR.
If you do change the oil, check when you first open the drain plug if any water comes out.

Thanks for the advice thus far, it was in the water last night, and ill let it sit until tommorow, and if she still dosnt start im gonna order a new starter for like 125. So, you think if it is the cdr and i clean it out and ungum it or get a new one, itll stop the leak? I thought it was something mechanical like the seal riped up from muddy water or something busted from the temperature differences. Thanks.

 

[ryoken]

its a crankcase depression regulator.. I'm no 6.2 expert, but I would guess it acts like a PCV valve.. and yes, if bad, I would think it would force oil past seals by having too much crankcase pressure.. I'm sure a couple of the diesel experts will chime in on this...

if thats the case, that rear main may be shot.. pushed out..

I'd change the oil.. clean the CDR out with solvent or replace (i'd guess its up on the valve cover or intake), and fire it up, see how bad it leaks... well, once you get it cranking...

 

[Dabba]

thanks, im hoping its this and the seals still alright, but i have a feeling once it started it leaking it wont stop even if i fix the cdr (if thats even it)

 

[Dabba]

i should also mention there was a SMALL amount of water soaked into the foam around the filter and in the filter cover. Does the cdr valve have an opening to the outside or is it all "internal plumbing"? Because if it is indeed open than im pretty sure its gummed up good...

 

[Dabba]

and afew guys over on the deisel forums site said the marbles sound was the lifters being starved of oil. Sounds pretty bad, but she only ran like that for 2-3min at most and she run up until i shut her off. Im thinking i probably should go to mechanic, because this maybe something more than i can handle... Anyone think shes seized?

Im thinking of trying to turn the engine over by hand, so i take a socket wrench to the front of the engine, facing front of the truck looking rear, which way do i turn? Would an impact gun capable of 250 lbs be better? How hard is it to do physically so i know if the engine is done or im just a weakling?

 

[kennyw]

Do not try to turn it over with an impact wrench. Since you ran it out of oil there is a very big chance you did other damage like spinning a bearing. Pull out all the glow plugs before you try to turn it over by hand. 20+:1 compression gives a lot of resistance.

The CDR valve is mounted on the intake on the CUCV series.

 

[Dabba]

guess im bringing it/towing to my mechanics. I would doubt my abilities in a garage or in warm weather, not in the middle or winter when its snowing out..

 

[Russell]

Before you panic, I'd do some diagnostics first. Knee jerk over-reactions can cost lots of money!

First things first, pull the glow plugs and try turning the engine over by hand with a socket on the ALTERNATOR nut, you should be able to turn it over if your belt is in good shape. If it seems impossible to turn the engine over without the alternator pulley slipping, then try turning it over with the bolt that retains the harmonic balancer. Just be careful, busting a bolt off in the end of the crank is a serious pain to deal with

The engine will not be easy to turn over, but it should turn smoothly and without making any noises (other than air being compressed and forced out of the glow plug holes).

If thats good, drop your pan and figure out where that leak came from. A leak that serious is probably not going to be associated with the CDR or the rear main. Is your oil filter on tight? How about your oil cooler lines, are they still solid? What about the oil pressure sending unit up at the rear driver's side of the engine just behind the head? Did you crack your oil pan open?

Fix the leak, put some oil in it, and fire it up. If it is still making bad noises, go from there. But don't panic right away!

If it does wind up that your engine has internal damage, I'd start looking for a replacement engine and run the one you've got till it blows. Its truly amazing how long some engines will run with a heavy knock till they let go, and a good used engine will cost far less than a full rebuild and associated machining would cost. Especially if your block or crank was damaged by a spun bearing.

When buying a new engine, make sure you drop the oil pan and investigate the mains, look for cracks running up along the bolts for the main caps, make sure it has good (and even) compression.

 

[Dabba]

Thanks, but as i said its snowing outside so its gonna have to wait at least awhile. This is my first deisel so... how hard is it to pull the glow plugs? Just like pulling spark plugs?

 

[Russell]

Yep! Easy to get at the bunch of them even with AC (Number 8 you gotta get at from under the truck with AC though)

Shouldn't be much snowing going on under your truck / hood -- I did an engine swap at - 13F in the middle of a blizzard with another CK5er earlier this year

 

[Dabba]

okay ill try it, theres no ac, its an m1008 so i should be okay, i guess i can crawl into the engine bay

 

[Dabba]

well, i did it, She turned over very easily. The belts on the alts sliped so i had to go down to the crank. Very easy. I left the Plugs out as they were a bitch to get out and i dont think i can put them back in at the momment. I may leave them for the mechanic.

Im not sure if i wanna try doing the starter and changing the oil in the snow and limping it to my mechanic with the leak as long as theres no sounds or if i should just have it towed and have him do it all. Theres a about a foot of snow outside now.

 

[imiceman44]

well, i did it, She turned over very easily. The belts on the alts sliped so i had to go down to the crank. Very easy. I left the Plugs out as they were a bitch to get out and i dont think i can put them back in at the momment. I may leave them for the mechanic.

Im not sure if i wanna try doing the starter and changing the oil in the snow and limping it to my mechanic with the leak as long as theres no sounds or if i should just have it towed and have him do it all. Theres a about a foot of snow outside now.

Wait a couple of day till the weather gives you a break, then change the oil put back those glow plugs and try to start it and watch for leaks and noises, you might be surprised it's all good.

 

[Dabba]

well, other than the oil change, i need to take the starter off and clean it out or have it rebuilt/get a new one. So. And im still worried about the leak. The plugs can stay out for a few days though right?

 

[Russell]

Even if you slip them back in and turn them a few threads by hand, that will help to protect your cylinders from possible flash rust, but at that point it is only a few more minutes to tighten them up anyways! Starter is easy to get at, doesn't take any longer than the glow plugs did, keep pluggin' away at it for as long as you can deal with the cold & the snow, its well worth saving a few thousand bucks on a mechanic if it is just a damaged oil cooler line or something.

 

[Dabba]

alright, ill try both tommorow. Any tips for putting them back in, i almost couldnt get the 4 out from the 2 rear most cylinders on each side, i mean i can get the rachet in there but after you break em loose, man do you need small hands to get under all those hoses and stuff, im afriad ill damage the plugs trying to put them back in haha. Maybe i can make my girl do it with her small hands haha.

i gotta pull the flex plate cover to get to the starter? didnt see it in the m1008 tech manual