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Priming Motor

4X4HIGH said:
Proper adjustment on a hydraulic lifter cam is zero lash plus anywhere between 1/2-1 turn more. I prefer to adjust with zero lash plus 1/2 a turn.
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So it's OK to adjust them like I did, only i need to leave no slop, and turn it half a turn past zero-lash (just barely touching plus half turn)...
 
You say hard to turn...they need to be EASY to turn, but just slightly less so than if there is no pressure on them. There is no visual test of this.

The term I've heard used is "drag". Rotate the pushrod that has no pressure on it while slowly tightening the rocker arm nut. You'll feel drag when the rocker, pushrod, and lifter are "connected". You may need to back off and try again to get the feel for it, but as soon as you feel ANY drag, stop. Then hit it with half a turn or so.

It takes very little force to move the lifter plunger when dry, you can easily overtighten the rocker.
 
dyeager535 said:
You say hard to turn...they need to be EASY to turn, but just slightly less so than if there is no pressure on them. There is no visual test of this.

The term I've heard used is "drag". Rotate the pushrod that has no pressure on it while slowly tightening the rocker arm nut. You'll feel drag when the rocker, pushrod, and lifter are "connected". You may need to back off and try again to get the feel for it, but as soon as you feel ANY drag, stop. Then hit it with half a turn or so.

It takes very little force to move the lifter plunger when dry, you can easily overtighten the rocker.
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So once you set it that 1/2 turn past zero lash, it's hard to turn...
 
At that 1/2 point, there is no "measuring" of how tight they are, but I'm sure they are quite tight by then. I've never bothered to feel them then, the 1/2 turn past zero lash is too easy. :)

I don't know what the tightening translates to in regards to lifter plunger depth, but I'm sure that last 1/2 turn depresses the lifter plunger just the right amount. At some point if you turned it too much (greater than 1 turn apparently) you'd bottom the plunger out, and there would be no hydraulic action.
 
1/2 turn just seems like alot.. when you look at the teeth and how much the nut moves.

I'll do just as you suggest next weekend when i actually get to work on my truck again...
 
reddog64 said:
Can you tell me where to get said additive...
I just talked to another member about the additive your referring to...
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I thought I told you Parkland Chev by my house had a case left from Dave Villwocks hydro team. It was the only dealer close that I could find it in stock.
Thanks Budweiser:thumb:.
 
reddog64 said:
1/2 turn just seems like alot.. when you look at the teeth and how much the nut moves.

I'll do just as you suggest next weekend when i actually get to work on my truck again...
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They are fine thread studs, correct? I just looked at a picture of my vortecs, and I know the ARP ones that were installed were also fine thread, so I can't imagine 1/2 turn moves them too much.

You can always take one that's on the base circle of the cam (TDC #1 for instance) loosen the rocker, and feel for yourself how much movement the lifter plunger has, just to get an idea.
 
Dont you have a GM dealer in your town? Most every one I have seen carries it.
You have to ask for Assembly Lube. It is the exact same stuff as EOS.
 
reddog64 said:
1/2 turn just seems like alot.. when you look at the teeth and how much the nut moves.

I'll do just as you suggest next weekend when i actually get to work on my truck again...
Click to expand...
I ALWAYS GET ZERO LASH THEN LOOSEN THEM 1/2 TURN.THEN TEST AND READJUST ONCE ITS RUNNING.JUST ADJUST TIGHTER TILL IT DOES NOT TAP ANYMORE.
 
Just for reference, when the valves are adjusted there will be roughly about 3/8" of threads showing above the rocker nut. Whatever you do, don't go by that as a way of adjusting the valves though. That is just a rough idea of where the nut will be once adjusted.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Keep him in line? The bastard's been busy and i've only got to hang out with him on sunday so far. :D
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That changes tomorrow, feeling like that burger youve been talking about:D.
I thought the official CK5 term was "bastage":dunno:.
Call You in the am Scott.
 
I hate adjusting valves...
I've done it 5 times now... Still have an exhaust valve backfiring every few revolutions.... And all the valves clatter....

Oil pressure is like 15 at 2500 rpm...
Now this is with some cheap POS 19 dollar sunpro guage....
Now with the oil primer in the drill I got it up to 20 PSI, but running at 2500 rpm it only goes about 15 PSI WTF???

I am finally getting oil out the push rods...

I cant get this stupid f'ing thing to run right... I'm getting pissed...
If this motor is messed up I'm gonna throw stuff...
 
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