Problems during/after Header instal

[brassnut]

Okay heres the skinny,
81 blazer stock 350 with 4" lift . I got tired of the stock exhaust manifolds and associated piping leaking fumes out everywhere so I decided to put on some Hedman Elite 69830's (thanks to the advice I got here on ck5). So the instal was not as quick as I thought. Removing various PS brackets and AC brackets and Oil dipstick tube and passenger side leafspring0 bumpstop ( which is useless after the lift and was intruding on the headers preferred path) and spark plugs and valve covers....... after all that i was finally ready to put on the headers. The header bolts hedman sent were all 12 the same size length. I needed a longer stud on the front driver side of the engine for the PS or AC bracket(cant remember which). Then I noticed some of the bolts on the passenger side seemed to be bottoming out in the heads before they were tight. So, picked up some longer ones from local parts store and back in business. Then put new cheapo valve covers on cause I disgraced mine from a previous instal, and I was back in business. Now for the problems left unsolved........

The oil dipstick tube got violated by the new headers before I decided to do the right thing and remove it. Now it is reinstalled, but has a lot of play in the chunck of metal it slides into. So my question is how is the the dipstick tube (passenger side mind you) seated to the engine block? Is there a "bracket" that bolts to the engine block? If so, this "bracket" has a lot of wiggle/play to it. Can I tighten it or is it pressed into the block and now beyond repair. Also, the dipstick tube had no o-rings on it, is it supposed to?

Second question,
I have an extra bracket left over that I cannot put back on. It reninforces the PS pump bracket by bolting to the front two driver side header studs/bolts and securing the PS pump. I don't have it installed right now, but the belts for all my accessories (non-serpentine) are tight and show now signs of slack/play. Will this be fine, or should I seek further attention to it . Is there a bracket someone makes to compensate for this with a header instal?

Thanks in advance,
Austin

PS,
Please excuse any spelling errors, my knuckles have bled over the keyboard hindering proper keystroke rhythm.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Those are the joys of wanting to run headers. I've installed headers on other vehicles and you almost always have to scrounge a few proper bolts, make a couple spacers, and modify a bracket. I'm too old to be goofing with headers they days so I leave them stock.

 

[454Sub]

The dipstick originally mounted to the exhaust manifold. It can mount to the headers with either a spacer tube, or just bend the bracket. A cheap tubing piece from your local hardware store like a large dowl pin will work. It just slides into the pan or block, cant remember which, I just used some red loctite on it and it held it in good. Black RTV will work as well, just be careful and dont over blob it. If I remember correctly, my dipstick itself had no o ring on it, but the oil level checker had one on it at the handle.

You dont have to run that extra bracket, you can if you would like. Just have to pick up some spacers that are the same thickness as the manifolds and viola. Done

And to make your life easier, dont use them crap gaskets they send you, use dead soft aluminum or copper, as headers are notorious for coming loose. I usually tighten mine every few heat up/cool down cycles and eventually they dont come loose for me anymore.

 

[brassnut]

The gaskets that came with seemed to have metal Layer sandwiched in between the two paper layers. Is that still considered a cheap header gasket? Also, the dipstick tube slides into sOme kind of square block that is attached to the engine block sOme how and now that square block is loose and I am not sure if it can be replaced or tightened.

Thank you for all your responses and help.

 

[454Sub]

Hmmmm, I always thought they just slid into a hole in the block. Guess Im wrong, is there a way to tighten it that you can see? Possibly the dipstick holds it tight after you get the play out of it.

And yea, them are cheap gaskets, they will work if you keep the headers tight all the time, but if they get loose they will burn the gaskets. That brings the suck. Thats why I use copper/aluminum ones, still occasionally comes loose, but doesnt burn up the gasket when it does allowing retightening. Always carry a 7/16in wrench in your glovebox for that purpose.

 

[Blue85]

Also, the dipstick tube slides into sOme kind of square block that is attached to the engine block sOme how and now that square block is loose and I am not sure if it can be replaced or tightened.

Can you get a pic?

 

[brassnut]

Pics added

Here is pic of the engine block (pass side ) where the dipstick tube went after a loose metal wedge looking thing came off of it. The second pic is the metal wedge thing. It looks to have been silicOned on the block/oil pan as it piled some of the cork oil pan gasket off with it. Do I silicon this piece back on or am I screwed and have to spend more $$$ ?

Thanks

 

[livid4dirt]

Hard to tell in that picture but is that the oil pan that sticks out beyond the edge of the block? Look at the drivers side and see if there is a steel plug in the block were the dipstick would go. When i bought my new crate engine it had a provision for either side and a steel plug to fill unused hole.

 

[livid4dirt]

Ok after rotating your photo i can see better. It looks like someone put a different oil pan on that motor and added that piece you have in your hand. My guess would be there is a provision in the block on the drivers side for dipstick tube.
Iv'e never seen an added piece like that but i'm no expert either.........good luck.

 

[brassnut]

I know that the previous owner replaced the stock 305 with a 350. Now what year the 350 came from I am unsure of. It appears that the engines built 80-85 (guessing) had passenger side dipstick. So maybe the PO reused his oil pan with a new block and half-arsed a way to keep the dipstick there. I do see a contouring on the block on the driver side that looks like it would allow for some dipstick.

Question: Can I RTV the hell out of the fabricated wedge piece and keep dipstick on the passenger side, or do I need to buy the correct oil pan and get a new dipstick? Also, how difficult is it to change oil pans? Is it the similar concept as doing the pan on a th350?

Thanks

 

[454Sub]

Same basic concept. A little harder as its over the axle. But easily doable in a driveway with some tools. Make sure it has a spot in the block for a dipstick before you go all out. And I would try and find a factory dipstick for that side.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

That broken off piece looks like it broke off the block(I would bet money on it). Probably the guy who changed out that motor broke it off and just siliconed it back on, But more likely it was cracked and you finished it off by wiggling and pulling on it. I would clean that thing real good, remove all the oil from both the block and that piece then use a JB weld type material and place it back on. Then if you have the ability(Welding wise) make a tab to connect the dipstick tube to one of the header bolts.

 

[brassnut]

Great, thanks. How can I tell for sure if the block has an oil dipstick option on the driver side? Would it look the same as the block that broke off? Also, can I weld that piece back on the block, or JBweld and silicon?

 

[doonjumper]

I would wire wheel all three mating ends and get them clean. Then take some carb cleaner and clean both pieces. JB weld. Even JB weld the part that rest against the block and call it good.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

No silicone! all JB Weld and clean the living sheit out of it. Then when that's connected and cured(24hrs) use a dab of silicone to seal the dipstick when you push it into that little hole, and then brace it at the top some how.

 

[brassnut]

Is there an aftermarket oil pan( or kit) I can buy that has the dipstick tube coming directly out of the pan instead of going through the block and then into the pan? I seem to recall the BBC engines being set up like this.

Thanks

 

[blazer74]

If you JB it i would use jb marine, Advance has it. Also the slow setting is better than the quick set.
I'm not familiar with that bracket thingy looking whatever it is.

 

[brassnut]

Ok, removed the oil pan and it looks like there is an oil dipstick hole in the driver side of engine block that someone siliconed up.


Next pic is the pass side with the tube and dipstick still in ( I siliconed that block in before the JB weld advice came through and it leaks).

You can see the dipstick coming through the hole between the starter and oil pump.

My question: Can I buy a new pan with driver side dipstick access and unclog the hole that is siliconed up to utilize a driver side dipstick config? If I did this could I remove the passenger side wedge thing that i tried to glue back on all together?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[livid4dirt]

Yes that should work, if the pan and gasket make good contact on passenger side.

 

[blazer74]

Found this conversation on Team Camaro, Might Help.

That bracket thing is supposed to be part of the tube and bolted to the block.







I suggest GM - look at these part numbers. 12551144 & 12551154 for the tube and stick. The pass side is really a better set-up in my opinion, at least as far as the facrory stuff goes. The earlier driver's side tube was simply a press fit, and they seem to loosen up after the tube has removed. The pass side setup has a small bracket welded to the tube which bolts to the block just under the cylinder head.

Thanks BPOS, those part numbers worked awesome. I finally got around to using your suggestion. The only issue I had (for anyone doing this in the future) was I had to cut down the tube about 3-3/4" at the bottom, since it was hitting my aftermarket Champ racing oilpan (7-quart) where the pan meets the block. This left about an inch or so where the ridge of the tube hits the block, plus it made it so that the mounting bracket from the tube would line up with the hole in the block (so I could bolt it on). I put a little bit of Permatex around the tube in the block before bolting it down. This dipstick thing was one of those little things that was driving me nuts. Thanks again!