Shagg it...
CK5
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Project 82 TCBF -10.13.9 - progress!!!
- Thread starter NEK5
- Start date
you should 86 that chrome water neck, i learned that the hard way years ago. GM has them at the dealer in cast iron and there indestructable.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
other than rust, any specific reason?
notorious for poor, or warped mating surfaces.. obviously resulting in leaks... sometimes you can mill them with a flat file... factory cast are fine... stilll good to drag file across it to check em... unless ya wanna get fancy, expensive with a billet piece...
other than rust, any specific reason?
Hey Ben if you're worried about it, I have the original thermostat housing from my truck in good shape. I think its the usual cast steel i beleive
NEK5
3/4 ton status
i think i got mine from the old intake, i think. if not, I`ll take you up on that
NEK5
3/4 ton status
looking for ideas boys. I`m having a tough time coming up with something.
I have the bottom taken care of, now I need to mount the top.
Any ideas?
The top mounts won`t work, they`re close on the pass side, but still off on the drivers...and when they`re bolted down, the dont even hold the radiator in place.
I have the bottom taken care of, now I need to mount the top.
Any ideas?
The top mounts won`t work, they`re close on the pass side, but still off on the drivers...and when they`re bolted down, the dont even hold the radiator in place.
Ben,
Try to come up with a more compliant top mount than the factory setup. A lot of the problems people have with aluminum radiators (cracking, leaking, etc) are due to them being hard-mounted to a flexible core support. When you flex the truck, it's going to twist the radiator too....and aluminum won't hold up as well as a traditional steel radiator to that kind of treatment.
I think your lower mounts are going to be OK, but if you can come up with some sort of good rubber isolators and brackets that will allow the upper rad area to move and twist a bit, you'll have a more reliable setup.
Try to come up with a more compliant top mount than the factory setup. A lot of the problems people have with aluminum radiators (cracking, leaking, etc) are due to them being hard-mounted to a flexible core support. When you flex the truck, it's going to twist the radiator too....and aluminum won't hold up as well as a traditional steel radiator to that kind of treatment.
I think your lower mounts are going to be OK, but if you can come up with some sort of good rubber isolators and brackets that will allow the upper rad area to move and twist a bit, you'll have a more reliable setup.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Good point Greg. I have some rubber left over from the giant mat I had in the floor of the Blazer (like 1/4in thick stuff), maybe I can incorporate that into it....The bracket itself is where I`m stuck. At this point, it looks like it`s defintely going to be full on custom. Will some flat stock and angle iron do the job?Ben,
Try to come up with a more compliant top mount than the factory setup. A lot of the problems people have with aluminum radiators (cracking, leaking, etc) are due to them being hard-mounted to a flexible core support. When you flex the truck, it's going to twist the radiator too....and aluminum won't hold up as well as a traditional steel radiator to that kind of treatment.
I think your lower mounts are going to be OK, but if you can come up with some sort of good rubber isolators and brackets that will allow the upper rad area to move and twist a bit, you'll have a more reliable setup.
I'd take a look at the way exhaust hangers work and try to copy that type of idea....a hard mount/cage with a flexible rubber intermediate connector to the radiator.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
hmm. Time to do some research
I think I have a hanger hanging (no pun intended) around in my box somewhere...let me take a look....
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Cardboard makes a great template. Pics tomorrow
NEK5
3/4 ton status
small update. mostly waiting on pay day
got two of my cables made up, one is charge wire, other is ground to rad support
the lights for my bed, 4 10 diode red leds, and 2 36 diode white leds
also not pictured that I got with the lights (ordered from DelCity) is some switches for accessories, as well as some relays for headlights, and circuit breakers for accessories.
Putting aside half the money for insurance/reg this paycheck, the other have will be from the next check (thats when it will be put on the road) Also going to get all the metal for my bed, and hopefully get the interior figured out
got two of my cables made up, one is charge wire, other is ground to rad support
the lights for my bed, 4 10 diode red leds, and 2 36 diode white leds
also not pictured that I got with the lights (ordered from DelCity) is some switches for accessories, as well as some relays for headlights, and circuit breakers for accessories.
Putting aside half the money for insurance/reg this paycheck, the other have will be from the next check (thats when it will be put on the road) Also going to get all the metal for my bed, and hopefully get the interior figured out
I wired up a set of those lights on my boss' boat trailer... bright little suckers!
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Ok, here`s my idea for the radiator mount.
pass side
drivers side
Paint shop creation is self explanitory. The red will with the flat peice of the cardboard going towards to the firewall.
The only thing I`m curious about is where it mounts to the rad support. The only reason I chose to do it like that is because it uses the existing holes from the factory radiator mounts, which have nuts welded underneath, and I have the bolts. Will this work?
pass side
drivers side
Paint shop creation is self explanitory. The red will with the flat peice of the cardboard going towards to the firewall.
The only thing I`m curious about is where it mounts to the rad support. The only reason I chose to do it like that is because it uses the existing holes from the factory radiator mounts, which have nuts welded underneath, and I have the bolts. Will this work?
NEK5
3/4 ton status
I plan on using these mounts to incorporate the fan mount into. I won`t be using the windstar fans because the shroud is too wide, so I`ll be running a mark viii fan, which is a good with that should be easy to mount. I figure I`ll weld a length of flat stock to the face of the mount, and it will go down to the piece of square tube at the bottom on both sides. That way I`ll be able to bolt the fans to the flat stock on both sides. Whatcha think?
NEK5
3/4 ton status
ttt for the night crowds opinions
I don't think cardboard will be strong enough.
J/K, looks good to me. I think incorporating the fan mount is a good idea.
J/K, looks good to me. I think incorporating the fan mount is a good idea.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
I don't think cardboard will be strong enough.
J/K, looks good to me. I think incorporating the fan mount is a good idea.
Thanks man
Ben,
I think it needs some more fine-tuning.
The illustration shows that the bracket and the rubber isolator are all jammed together with no gaps to allow the radiator to move. That's really not much different than having the whole thing made out of steel.
The main thing you want to do is constrain the radiator from moving front-to-back (toward the firewall or toward the grille), so brackets that creates a vertical channel on either side would accomplish that. To secure the radiator from lifting up and out of the radiator support, I would focus on a rubber mount across the top somehow....think short "bungee-cord" type straps from the radiator support, across the top of the radiator to a bracket on the fan-shroud side. This will allow the radiator to move upwards (slightly) when the frame is flexing and won't transfer those forces into the radiator itself....the radiator will simply push up against those rubber straps and deflect them as it creates the clearance it needs.
I envision a set of brackets that are more side-mounted on the radiator, with rubber straps running across the top...
ps. This advice is worth what you paid, and the more people you ask the more opinions you'll get.
I think it needs some more fine-tuning.
The illustration shows that the bracket and the rubber isolator are all jammed together with no gaps to allow the radiator to move. That's really not much different than having the whole thing made out of steel.
The main thing you want to do is constrain the radiator from moving front-to-back (toward the firewall or toward the grille), so brackets that creates a vertical channel on either side would accomplish that. To secure the radiator from lifting up and out of the radiator support, I would focus on a rubber mount across the top somehow....think short "bungee-cord" type straps from the radiator support, across the top of the radiator to a bracket on the fan-shroud side. This will allow the radiator to move upwards (slightly) when the frame is flexing and won't transfer those forces into the radiator itself....the radiator will simply push up against those rubber straps and deflect them as it creates the clearance it needs.
I envision a set of brackets that are more side-mounted on the radiator, with rubber straps running across the top...
ps. This advice is worth what you paid, and the more people you ask the more opinions you'll get.
