Project Blue Truck: '83 C20 - Rolling Chassis

[FrostBite]

I live out in the country and don't have a neighbor within a mile in any direction. I use a 12 gauge.

Martin

I'm in the sticks as well, but I use a scoped Browning .22 to avoid shooting holes in the shop roof since they run across it going from tree to tree. Now that the trees are almost in full leaf, the squirrels have more to hide behind so I may have to use the 12 gauge on some.

 

[FrostBite]

Rather ironically, after all this recent squirrel talk, there were three of them in my yard this morning when I first went outside. Each one got a .22 LR through the ear.

Between mowing the grass and a getting a haircut, I got one link mount tacked in. I removed more of the frame so that now the link mount will be flush with the outside of the frame. To transition from the 10* kick out back to the frame, a 5/8" wide strip of 3/16 was added to the leaded edge. The other mount just lacks having the strip welded on and the frame opened up to make some room for it.

You can see where the top of the frame rail will come off to clear the link. Frame boxing should get interesting here.

I'll weld it up inside and out then grind down the outside welds, throw some various bracing on to help break up the sharp angles, and then paint it. I'm hoping it will come out looking very sleek with everything smoothed and blended in, although I'm not sure why I'm worried about making it look good since it will all get covered up once the cab goes on, the same as the slider arms.

 

[FrostBite]

Both link mounts are now one with the frame. It's amazing how much better a little paint makes everything look.

I'm still unsure as to how I'm going to mount the passenger side link to the chunk.

 

[MNorby]

does the passenger uca have to sit on top the chunk or is there room next to it at bump?

 

[FrostBite]

does the passenger uca have to sit on top the chunk or is there room next to it at bump?

It will go above the 8 bolt cover, which puts the joints in between the oil pan and frame at full stuff.

 

[454Sub]

Haha, I use a scoped bolt action .22 with a handbuilt silencer with hollow points for squirrels, coons, and all that associated nonsense thats gathered by my house. Im out in the sticks, but I have neighbors that are fairly close and dont want to disturb them with my possibly drunken ammo expenditures.


The work is looking great, cant wait to see the 8.1 in there and it moving under its own power.

 

[FrostBite]

Haha, I use a scoped bolt action .22 with a handbuilt silencer with hollow points for squirrels, coons, and all that associated nonsense thats gathered by my house. Im out in the sticks, but I have neighbors that are fairly close and dont want to disturb them with my possibly drunken ammo expenditures.


The work is looking great, cant wait to see the 8.1 in there and it moving under its own power.

I have more reasonable goals, like getting it on four wheels and pushing it out of the damn shop so I can clean up under it.

Mild progress: mock up links went in along with the motor to check clearances yet again. I've lost count of how many times I've stabbed the engine in, but no matter how many times I do it, I will never think, "Man, I'm really glad to have 900 pounds worth of motor and transmission hanging off of this Harbor Freight POS."

Approximate rod end locations.

This is the only worrisome spot, but the axle is pushed slightly above bump, so it can't get any worse, unless the '80e has some other stick out there.

 

[454Sub]

I feel you on that 8.1. Im not sure if there is an actual weight difference, but I had my 454 on that same stand, but I had to put a jackstand under the 8.1s floor pan as I was afraid it would break the stand or pull the bolts through.

Haha, I feel you on just moving it. Mine runs, and everything, but no driveshafts. So I can rev it up all day, but it wont move. It has a pile of mud, dirt, cigarette butts, and soda cans underneath it that is driving me nuts. But my new slip shaft is coming tomorrow they say so I should be able to put it around and do some burnouts.

 

[MNorby]

How are your link calculation numbers with the uppers that high on the frame?

 

[FrostBite]

I feel you on that 8.1. Im not sure if there is an actual weight difference, but I had my 454 on that same stand, but I had to put a jackstand under the 8.1s floor pan as I was afraid it would break the stand or pull the bolts through.

Haha, I feel you on just moving it. Mine runs, and everything, but no driveshafts. So I can rev it up all day, but it wont move. It has a pile of mud, dirt, cigarette butts, and soda cans underneath it that is driving me nuts. But my new slip shaft is coming tomorrow they say so I should be able to put it around and do some burnouts.

If I could just get all of the grinding dust swept up, I would be much happier.

How are your link calculation numbers with the uppers that high on the frame?

Going from highest to lowest position, anti-dive ranges from 80% to 105% while roll axis ranges from 2 degrees oversteer to 0 degrees. I feel like those numbers were a decent compromise for keeping the truck looking like a truck low on Rockwells.

 

[FrostBite]

I received my tower pieces from Mud Pro, and they came out perfect. I highly recommend them to anyone needing custom plasma cutting done.

From left to right, the 1/8th scab plate, the 3/8th main plate, and then both stacked together. The main plates are cut for 1/4" wall DOM to go in the holes, so the scab plate holes will be 3/4" bigger once the tubes get welded in.

I need to order some 2.5 x .25 wall and some 3 x .25 wall DOM to fill in the lower 2 holes, I already have some 2 x .25 on hand.

 

[y5mgisi]

Thats awesome! Can i ask how much that set of brackets cost to get cut? Did you send him a CAD file of some kind?

 

[FrostBite]

Thats awesome! Can i ask how much that set of brackets cost to get cut? Did you send him a CAD file of some kind?

I sent a .dxf of both pieces. He charged $27 for each of the the 3/8th pieces and $12 for each of the 1/8th pieces.

Here are the main plates tacked onto the housing, as you can see, I'm going to have to install a lift kit on my steering cylinder. I'll fine tune it once I dial in the castor and get the pinion flange on.

And slightly above what will most likely become full bump.

 

[y5mgisi]

Sure looks good!

 

[Deuling]

I dig it. Sweet brackets. You gonna put pipe or tubing through the holes?

 

[FrostBite]

I dig it. Sweet brackets. You gonna put pipe or tubing through the holes?

Yes sir.

I need to order some 2.5 x .25 wall and some 3 x .25 wall DOM to fill in the lower 2 holes, I already have some 2 x .25 on hand.

The bolt hole center is 11" above the axle tube, so the plates are gonna get braced up pretty good internally and then boxed on the front and back to tie it all together.

 

[Deuling]

Good deal.

Cant wait to see the 1/8" brackets welded to the others and the pipe in. Those will be some bad brackets


Are you going to be able to have the axle articulated with that bracket tucked up so close to the engine at full bump?

 

[FrostBite]

Good deal.

Cant wait to see the 1/8" brackets welded to the others and the pipe in. Those will be some bad brackets


Are you going to be able to have the axle articulated with that bracket tucked up so close to the engine at full bump?

I really wish I could TIG the plates on, but the MIG is all I have. I'll just have to turn it down a bit and give it my best "stack-o-dimes" I've got.

I had an articulated picture on the camera, but I deleted it. The brackets are actually closer to frame than the oil pan. I figure it's easier to cut off pieces of the frame than the oil pan, if it comes to that.

 

[Deuling]

Do you have a torch? If you do, you can weld with a standard torch head and make some damn pretty welds. I learned it a while back, pretty cool stuff.

 

[FrostBite]

Do you have a torch? If you do, you can weld with a standard torch head and make some damn pretty welds. I learned it a while back, pretty cool stuff.

We've got one at the barn, but I've never used it for anything other than cutting. I snagged you're flex picture this time around.

I started on the "helmet" or "top hat" for the passenger side link. I wanted to leave the factory inspection cover under the helmet so I could pull it on and off with out opening the third member. I need to make a spacer from 1/2" plate to get the proper clearance above the dished portion of the inspection cover; currently I've got scraps shoved under there. I know I want to tie into the side inspection cover, and maybe the pinion seal retainers, so the plate on top was left over sized to facilitate that.

With so much height taken up by building around the factory cover, the heim had to be recessed down into the plate to keep it at the appropriate level above axle center line.

And depending on how I finalize the design, the other tab may mount from a different location, so I just made a quick tab from scrap just to get the joint in double shear.

And the obligatory articulation picture. I jacked the frame up to get as much up travel as possible before the floor jack maxed out.