Update? That shortbed is absolutely bad to the bone!!
CK5
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Project Chump (88 K5) - ORD front 4 link install
- Thread starter westn11
- Start date
Cntymnty77
1/2 ton status
What kind of dash cluster is that?
I honestly can't remember. If I recall correctly, I Googled who makes these dashes for our vehicles, and found someone who had laying around without any holes in it.
Its been a while since I had time to get back on the K5. You know the story... other projects, other commitments. The largest one being finishing my Tundra for a trip out to Moab with the guys late last March. I had originally wanted to take the K5, but I was worried that it would require more work than I had time for, so I spent the few months I had getting a vehicle ready that I feel could make the deadline.
I'm now on a mission to get this thing on the road for the Fall. Hopefully early September.
Originally, when doing the front links, I wanted to keep the lift height as low as possible and still run the tire size I had in mind. I figured moving the axle forward a few inches would keep the tires away from the firewall/floor. This required me to move the steering box forward a few inches. It drove fine after I got it back on the road, but I was never happy with how I did it. Basically, I just re-drilled the frame for the new steering box location, used some sleeves to keep it aligned correctly and went with it. This time around, I wanted to weld in some 2x6 3/16 wall and drill holes to run some "slugs" that the bolts would go through.
Here's how it went.
The first thing I did was build a little jig to hold the steering box in the location that I wanted, so it would stay put after cutting everything away.
The first picture is of how things sat before I started cutting and with the jig built.
The second is of my old/initial mods which you can see easier after I cut it out.
I'm now on a mission to get this thing on the road for the Fall. Hopefully early September.
Originally, when doing the front links, I wanted to keep the lift height as low as possible and still run the tire size I had in mind. I figured moving the axle forward a few inches would keep the tires away from the firewall/floor. This required me to move the steering box forward a few inches. It drove fine after I got it back on the road, but I was never happy with how I did it. Basically, I just re-drilled the frame for the new steering box location, used some sleeves to keep it aligned correctly and went with it. This time around, I wanted to weld in some 2x6 3/16 wall and drill holes to run some "slugs" that the bolts would go through.
Here's how it went.
The first thing I did was build a little jig to hold the steering box in the location that I wanted, so it would stay put after cutting everything away.
The first picture is of how things sat before I started cutting and with the jig built.
The second is of my old/initial mods which you can see easier after I cut it out.
The next pics are nothing important, just showing how everything looked after I cut the frame and started making plates to weld the new 2x6 on to.
I obviously can't just drill holes through the 2x6 and bolt the steering box to it. The next step was to make some round slugs to run through the new frame piece, which the bolts will go through. I know a better word exists than "slug", but my brain isn't finding it right now.
Drilling a hole through the solid round bar.
One down. This took a long time!
Drilling a hole through the solid round bar.
One down. This took a long time!
The next part may be a little tricky to describe? First, I cut the new 2x6 frame to fit nicely where the old factory frame was that I cut out. Then I put the steering box onto the jig that I built so it was in the location that I wanted. At this point, imagine the 2x6 frame sitting in its place on the trucks frame, and the steering box kind of floating next to it on the jig. I then put some bolts on the lathe and turned them down so they had a little point on them. I threaded them into the steering box so that the new frame and the steering are now touching by the points of the bolts. A nice big wack with a dead blow hammer and the bolt points put a nice ding in the frame so I knew where to drill the holes for the slugs.
2x6 frame in its place and steering box floating next to it on the jig
Here's the bolts that I turned down to have a small point (kind of). I threaded them into the steering box so that they're barely touching the new 2x6 frame. I then gave the side of the new frame a wack with a dead blow to make a ding similar to a punch with a hammer.
2x6 frame in its place and steering box floating next to it on the jig
Here's the bolts that I turned down to have a small point (kind of). I threaded them into the steering box so that they're barely touching the new 2x6 frame. I then gave the side of the new frame a wack with a dead blow to make a ding similar to a punch with a hammer.
Once I knew where the holes needed to be, I put them on a mill and got some nice straight holes drilled through the 2x6. I enlarged the holes so the slugs fit through, mocked everything back up, took a bunch of measurement to make sure it fit as expected, then welded it up enough to put it through some testing.
Steering box still on the jig, bolted to the new frame with bolts going through the "slugs".
Side shot.
Kinda welded in.
Steering box still on the jig, bolted to the new frame with bolts going through the "slugs".
Side shot.
Kinda welded in.
Good to see what you have going on it!
This will be cool to see how you are going to put the frame back together.
This will be cool to see how you are going to put the frame back together.
Any progress? Awesome build. We arent too far away from eachother (i think you may have bought some parts off me years ago), but would be happy to lend a hand turning wrenches if it would help get the k5 back on the road
I'm still using the grill that I got from you many years ago :-)
I've been working on it a bunch over the past few weeks and making very slow progress. The short version is that I got rid of my old low hanging ORD frame side brackets and have switch to their high clearance ones. I was able to go one side at a time, which kept the axle in place and really cut down on some of the work. After installing the longer links, I have realized that the bump stops are now too far back and I want to redo the brakes lines as a personal preference. I'm also realizing that the tires are going to come up high/forward enough and hit the new trans cooler, so I need to redo the mounts and location for that.
I have been doing all my clearance checks with a 38"x13.5" Toyo on a 9" wide x 4.5" BS wheel. This however will not be the final combination that I run. The main issue is that the 4.5" BS wheel helps keep the tire out of the upper fender lip, but it gets hard into the steering box. I think a 3.5" BS wheel will help with the frame side clearance, but require a severely cut fender, which I'm personally not a fan of.
Radiator and trans cooler mounted by themselves. They wont be connected to the core support. I personally like to be able to take the front clip off if needed and not have to drain fluids. Maybe its the little hot-rod I have left in me.
Links all mocked up and sitting at ride height.
Drivers side droop
Drivers side stuff
Tire hitting the steering box
Nice work!
Cycle cycle cycle. Time to inboard that steering box for it to hit the track bar mount next lol.
That opens a can of worms because the draglink gets real short which would want a short track bar and then that would create a lot of side to side movement. Which is why people end up going with the fancy cantilever steering to keep a long track bar.
How much further did you move the front axle forward?
I definitely don't have the skill or time to try and real custom steering stuff. 
I talked with ORD and he said that they setup most of their vehicles like mine with a 3.5" BS. I bough a few spacers (setup only) to figure out which final backspacing I'll go with. I'm trying to go with either a 39" KM3 or 40" Nitto.
With the new longer links, I need to move my bump stops forward and up a little, so wheel/tire sizing and fitment will depend on a lot of variables at that point. I'm going to cut off the old bump stop mounts and fab up new ones today, then put it on the lift next week and start cycling again. I purchased some goodies this week that should handle the fender clearance issues. Pics will be coming later...
"How much further did you move the front axle forward?" <-- The steering box was moved forward two inches. When the the links got setup initially, I needed this extra clearance just to keep my factory wheelbase.
I talked with ORD and he said that they setup most of their vehicles like mine with a 3.5" BS. I bough a few spacers (setup only) to figure out which final backspacing I'll go with. I'm trying to go with either a 39" KM3 or 40" Nitto. With the new longer links, I need to move my bump stops forward and up a little, so wheel/tire sizing and fitment will depend on a lot of variables at that point. I'm going to cut off the old bump stop mounts and fab up new ones today, then put it on the lift next week and start cycling again. I purchased some goodies this week that should handle the fender clearance issues. Pics will be coming later...
"How much further did you move the front axle forward?" <-- The steering box was moved forward two inches. When the the links got setup initially, I needed this extra clearance just to keep my factory wheelbase.
Peterbrassington
Newbie
Hi Nigel
I have been reading your build as I would like to build a front 5 link similar to yours but I live in Australia and our cars are right-hand drive, so I cant just buy a kit from ORD
any chance you could answer some questions for me?
* what is the link vertical separation at the frame brackets
*what is the link vertical separation at the axel brackets
* how long are the links
* are they the same length
thanks for your help
Peter
I have been reading your build as I would like to build a front 5 link similar to yours but I live in Australia and our cars are right-hand drive, so I cant just buy a kit from ORD
any chance you could answer some questions for me?
* what is the link vertical separation at the frame brackets
*what is the link vertical separation at the axel brackets
* how long are the links
* are they the same length
thanks for your help
Peter
