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Project DieselWarrior ( ++ Updated: 25 Aug 10 w/PART 23 VIDEO ++ )

I dunno what sears roebuck is man, but I'm guessin a tool/parts place, it shouldnt be a problem man, before you go out and buy a socket try putting a ring spaner on it, I'm guess it's 7/16, maybe 1/2 and see if it comes undone, it should do pretty easy a multi hex just means 12 point instead of 6 point like they use in impact sockets etc
 
What is a 'multi hex socket', is this something I can get at Sears Roebuck? :dunno:

Thanks!

12 point socket, and yes, Sears should definetly have one :waytogo:

*****Just checked mine in the garage, it's a 7/16 12 point socket you will need .

Great job so far on the rig, and the video updates :bow: very cool !!

Just noticed your sig, thinking about a Cummins huh :whistle:
 
Thanks for the info, Ill have to scoot out to get one tomorrow. Looks like Im shy the $40 for Frank to do it, so Ill have to do it in the driveway, like everything else.


Just noticed your sig, thinking about a Cummins huh :whistle:
Only after the 6.2 takes a dirt nap. :woot:
 
I dunno what sears roebuck is
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/v_10153_12605_Tools

Its a part of US history...
sears&roebuck.jpg


searsandroebuck1900.jpg




No one every adds the Roebuck anymore, a forgotten part of history.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sears

I own a lot of the Craftsman tools
craftsman1.jpg

There guaranteed for life, and I get free swaps no problems, no questions asked. Took the head right off a T-50, got a new one. They never asked if it was on a breaker bar with a cheater bar, and I never told them. :whistle:
 
I think the idea behind the spacers and bolts is to get more bolt stretch at the correct torque. The steering box has the same thing...

Rene
 
There guaranteed for life, and I get free swaps no problems, no questions asked. Took the head right off a T-50, got a new one. They never asked if it was on a breaker bar with a cheater bar, and I never told them. :whistle:
Baaahahahahahaaahahhahaahahaahaahahahaahaahhaah :haha::haha::haha:

farkin luv it bro, I do that kinda sh!t all the time
 
As it stands, RIGHT NOW: I am ready for the snow or for the trails! :waytogo:

Good tires, good steering, driveline vibrations eliminated- handles, brakes, runs, steers great!

Im still toying with a Panhard bar idea, but that will be next year. I still need new springs up front to get rid of the blox, but that can wait until I get a job.

I am looking at the possibilities of building a set of shackles to go on the back, a flip shackle setup, using the stock rear springs... this should also rotate the diff so the pinion angle will be much improved also.

I will also need the drive shaft re-tubed, its a good bit too short with the lift on.

Still need to build a center console, with some type of lock.

Still want to build an overhead cargo rack, full length. Will be installing a 52" whip on it, should work well to pi$ off every drive through worker I come in contact with. :whistle:

Bunch of other chit I cant think of right now, but as you can see... Part 22 video is not the end, or near the end of the series for Project: DieselWarrior.

Also thinking about making my own bio and running B50 in the war wagon... Not sure just yet, but thinking about it. :laugh:
 
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If you want more power, get rid of the EGR intake and swap to an open 'J' code intake, then turn up the pump a bit.

I did the open filter thing way back with my 6.2 Jimmy, was too loud for my liking so I went back to a factory filter assembly.

Rene
 
PART 24

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y26tFeofUfA






Say Bye Bye Rag Joint!

I modify a Jeep Cherokee XJ intermediate shaft to eliminate the 28 year old GM rag joint.

Steering now is 100 times improved! It really does feel like a like a new vehicle! Slop in the wheel is virtually eliminated, feedback in the wheel is much improved. Steering and overall handling is a major improvement.



part24.jpg
 
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Been driving her is all. All the major stuff has gotten addressed so far, there are more things that need to be done, but dont have the money at this time to do them. Ill be adding more as time goes on, so dont delete the subscription!

Cheers,
Andrew
 
UPDATE: PART 25 IN THE WORKS

What I am doing today;

* New master cylinder
* Two new calipers
* New rear brake pistons
* Brake shoes contaminated, replacing
* Clean entire rear brake areas
* Full system bleed

Yeah, you guessed it... Old, worn out, failing parts. I almost lost all my brakes before I got home. The master had a failed seal and all fluid in the rear reservoir was gone.

Started digging further: Left caliper: bleed screw seized in original caliper. Right caliper: bleed screw seized and ROUNDED OFF in original caliper.

Im on the rear brakes now, waiting on mama to get back so I can wheel up to O'Rilleys for new pistons and brake cleaner, I got the master and calipers on. Rotors, bearings and bearing seals all look good. Pads were still 9/10 good so I am just using them.

Whew... I stated at 10am and its 2pm now, been going balls to the wall, I should be done by 5 I hope... The rear of course, is not going to be as fast as the front. (Gawd I wish I had disk all around!)

BTW, both rear pistons have failed and leaked out, the right was worse, fresh fluid on the drum. WooWoo!

Fluid I pulled from the master and captured from the lines, looks like 10W30! Holy chit batman!


Andrew


 
Nice one bro, your blazer is almost the twin of my red one, I've done just about everything you have on War Wagon, apart rom the rag joint - rust in same areas, brakes, blah blah blah, ya gota love the old wagons man :waytogo: good luck with brakes mate, if ya run into any probs bleedin them look up "Proportioning valve" and bleeding, I weas lucky and had no probs, and the gravy that came out was redicilas :eek1: brakes work awesome now

G
 

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