What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project DieselWarrior ( ++ Updated: 25 Aug 10 w/PART 23 VIDEO ++ )

small_DSC07326.JPG


I take it, this is the prop valve.... and to the left is the reset?


I got the front brakes bled fine, my assist. pumping the brakes, I got good gushes of fluid into my catch jar!

I moved to the front because the rear would NOT bleed!

My BRAKE light is on in the dash.

Im suspecting this to be the culprit.

Any further advice, Id be happy to hear please. Id love to get this job finished.

I replaced both wheel cylendars/brake pistions in the rear. I was about to go to the store tomorrow to get a new hose with splitter block that goes from the frame to the axle... but after reading a few post as suggested, I think the prop valve is to blame.

I hope you (anyone) read this and can offer more clear advice, I feel like Im closer to solving, but still too confused to fix the problem.

Bleeding the rear only produced a few small bubbles, nothing like what it should. And they didnt come all that often either.

Thanks so much guys!
Andrew
 
BTW, my BRAKE light came on before I did all this work, it is still on. It came on as I was loosing braking power, just a few miles before I brought her home and parked her.

I did NOT bench bleed the MC, did I commit a sin or does it just make it "more work"? I hate to have to pull it off again just to bench bleed, unless I absolutely must.


Andrew
 
If I am understanding this correctly, the small needle in the PV needs to be pressed in, and held in place, while the rear is being bleed.

Once the rear is bleed then I assume the proper pressures are applied inside the PV and no need to hold the "reset" pin in.

Am I close?

If so I can fab up a jig to press and hold while I crack bleeders and pump the pedal.

Andrew
 
UPDATE: FIXED BRAKES!!

1) Lesson learned: If you dont bench bleed a new (or empty for that matter) master cyld., you will NEVER get the brakes bled right!

2) "resetting" the prorp. valve does not always work, mind did NOT even try. My master mechanic told me on the phone, try opening the back and slam on the brake, or the front or all 4 if you dont get that working. I may have done "some" good that way, but I couldnt tell any diff and the BRAKE light stayed on.

3) Re-bleeding the rear AFTER bleeding the MC resulted in success, but lots of pumping and fluid was used. What was ejected looked like 10W30, so it was way past time for a full system bleed!

Took her for a test drive, pedal feels good, panic stop at 25mph resulted in tires screeching. :woot:

Thanks for everyone's help, I love you guys!

Andrew
 
Yes, the BRAKE light did go out and stay out as the brakes were bleed and the propt. valve started to balance out the pressure and stabilize in operation (it "reset" its self)

It has been about a week since then, brakes are working WONDERFULLY! I still need to adjust the rear, no biggie.

I FINALLY got work, good news... But Im working 9 hour days, and 6 on Sat, I have to get up at 3am to get to work on time. Sux, I stay tired. Ive got to start going to bed at 8pm instead of 9pm to get enough rest.

Im at a stand still with the truck right now, I need money bad to continue work.

To do:
New springs front and back for proper 4" lift and get rid of all blox
New drive shaft with proper length
Output seal on transfer case
Pinion angle adjusted to truly ELIMINATE driveline vibration

The above is NECESSARY, the desired stuff like roof rack, 16 inch rims and 33" tires... will have to wait until next summer.

Thanks-
Andrew
 
Congrats on the job!!! I have to say I've enjoyed this thread and look forward to more updates...
 
OH YEAH! There is so much left to be done, to make it "right", there WILL be future episodes of the truck drama to come! Stay tuned, same bat channel! :waytogo:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom