CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project: Dirty South (K5)

More parts waiting to go on

My NP208 slip yoke finally is eliminated and the DIY4X clocking ring is installed. I bought a hybrid Chevy/Dodge 208:

DSC01417.jpg

DSC01418.jpg


One down side is the factory Dodge rear yoke is only a 1310, but it can be upgraded:

http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=873815&postcount=12

I am late to this party, as the Chevy 208/Dodge 208 hybrid has been around a while. Here are some threads discussing the tech:

http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100934
http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4692
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=771339

There are basically a couple of options, you can use the back half of the Dodge case, or drill the back half of the Chevy case for the Dodge tail housing. The CK5 thread discusses the latter.

DSC01419.jpg

DSC01421.jpg


There are trade-offs with using the Dodge back half, pictured above. One is, you lose the second torque rod anchor boss. The second is, the Dodge fill port is lower than the Chevy's so you either need to fill through the vent or be content to run a little less fluid.

Either way, you gain 4" of rear driveshaft length, which helps on short wheelbase rigs like Blazers.

DSC01420.jpg


Another up-side is your speedo cable will plug right in to the Dodge speedo port. The drive and driven speedo gears varied from Dodge to Chevy, though, so these guys can hook you up with the right adapter to correct your speedometer -

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm
 
More parts waiting to go on

DSC01416.jpg


A couple of 1410 pinion yokes. Pictured with them is the Precision part number for the 1410 u-bolts.

DSC01422.jpg


30-spline full spool to take the place of my busted Lincoln locker in the rear.

DSC01423.jpg

DSC01424.jpg

DSC01425.jpg

DSC01426.jpg

DSC01427.jpg


My filthy work bench detracts from the pics, but these are braided stainless steel extended brake lines, sheathed in red-tinted clear plastic. They are from G&J Aircraft -

http://www.gandjaircraft.net/

The whole bundle, front and rear was about $100. These guys were fabulous to deal with - even fixing, for free, a stupid mistake I made in banjo fitting size when I gave them measurements initially. The quality is top notch and the price can't be beat. Highly recommended.
 
More parts waiting to go on

DSC01428.jpg


Live Wires spark plug wires, that include full-length heat shielding. Mine are used from a Pirate member, but you can get yours in your choice of colors here -

http://www.performancedistributors.com/

Pictured also is a new in-cap HEI coil by Mallory, P/N 29212 at Summit Racing, about $90.

DSC01429.jpg


You can also be cool like me and throw a dumb amount of money on their bling billet plug wire clamps.

DSC01430.jpg


Also from Summit Racing, the sending units I mentioned in an earlier post for my Trans Temp, Water Temp and Oil Pressure VDO gauges.

DSC01431.jpg


Finally, a used factory GM oil cooler for a SBC. At left are the GM parts you will need to bolt the adapter on - 2 bolts and gaskets. The cooler plate will bolt right up to factory locations on the radiator support on most Blazers, Pickups and Suburbans.
 
:waytogo:

Questions:

How are you going to plumb the trans temp sender?

What are the fittings sizes for the oil cooler?
 
:waytogo:

Questions:

How are you going to plumb the trans temp sender?

What are the fittings sizes for the oil cooler?

You basically have about 4 options to plumb -

1. An aftermarket transmission pan with a port for the sender.
2. Alternatively, you can plumb it in the oil return line to the transmission with a T fitting
3. You can use the pressure test port in the driver's side of the case, just above the shift linkage. It has a pipe plug in it from the factory.
4. You can drill your pan and install a drain plug kit -
http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Transmission-Products_2/Drain-Plug-Kit

I'll have to check the cooler fitting sizes. The CK5 member I bought from sent the lines, too, so I didn't bother measuring.
 
Great build, and you will be happy with that 208. Still wish I would have held out on my FIL welding. Ended up just plugging the oil splash galley and using the chevy halves. Hand testing has eased my mind in that the rear bearing doesnt feel any hotter than the Tcase.
Another option(although disputed) is the supply to the coolers. The fluid is coming right out of the torque converter. I went complicated with a mechanical in this spot, am pretty happy with the results. You know exactly whats going on.

What are you going to end up with for a driveshaft? Like you already know, yoke options are plentiful and relatively inexpensive.

Great build and lots of cool, quality partrs
 
What are you going to end up with for a driveshaft? Like you already know, yoke options are plentiful and relatively inexpensive.

Great build and lots of cool, quality partrs

Thanks. Feels like I need a lot more.

I'll probably end up spending some money with HAD or Tom Woods.
 
where did you get your 1410 yokes from? I need one for the 14BFF.
 
talked with Jesse from HAD, got one of his on the way....straight up dude right there.

I'm keeping an eye on your build, great stuff here.
 
This was a great build. Probably one of the most well-written and detailed build threads I've seen on an internet forum. Does anyone know what happened to Xanthias? Is he still around? I'd like to see how this Blazer turned out.
 
Top Bottom