CK5
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Project "Old Man Strength"
- Thread starter TC4x4
- Start date
Dad's 1984 Chevy K20 - Rebuild started 15 years ago and put on hold to invest more time in the family business - family business taking off - time to resume building.
I see, I see. That makes sense. Don't people flip the spaces quite often to the bottom after a lift is installed?
Thats a bad idea. It compounds the angle on the front driveshaft
Wouldn't it reduce the angle because it lowers the cross member down? (spacers under the frame)
On the back yes, and adds all of it to the front
It’s pretty normal for front driveshaft issues to arise at 6” of lift without moving the spacers, so moving it had been noted to make that worse
and flipping the spacers BLOWS out the frame rail lower lip .
Wanted to run an idea by all of you. Dad and I have put on a few 4" lifts with 35's. We wanted to ask some opinions before we put an order in. Pros and Con's.
Heres the idea we are tossing around for the suspension. Front: 6" spring and 1" zero rates. Rear: 4" lift, 2.5" shackle flip, and zero rates. The front is .5" shorter. Would the front end weight level it out?
Heres the idea we are tossing around for the suspension. Front: 6" spring and 1" zero rates. Rear: 4" lift, 2.5" shackle flip, and zero rates. The front is .5" shorter. Would the front end weight level it out?
spacers for what ? these bolts on t-case crossmember to frame ?these are just to hold the bolt tight for correct bolt strech . DO NOT USE FOR lowering spacer between frame and crossmember . and also will kill front drive line angles also .
if so there 1" tall x 3/4" o.d. x 29/64" i.d. just a hair bigger than 7/16" to let the smooth shank of the bolt body fit easy .
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The back will still sag, it’s pretty normal
Back to the spacers. We have concerns about that and dont want you to mess up your project
Definitely not planning on using them improperly. I am mounting them today and they are going on TOP of the inside lower frame rail. I was more curious of the why versus F*%k it, I'm doing it anyway. Thanks for the help guys.
no problem . thats what we are here for .
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Nuts should have at least 2 full threads exposed beyond the nut to ensure full thread engagement. Especially important if you want the locking feature of the nut to work
TreeFarm thanks for the imput. I just cut .5" off the spacers, even with the new washers I should have plenty of thread to grab.
On a different note. Does anyone know if the B-52's and beyond of DIY4X will work as a direct replacement for the stock body/front leaf mount?
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17715&cat=250&page=1
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I got the spacers cut down to 1" allowing for plenty of threads to pass through the all-metal locking nut.
I really want to rebuild the axles myself at home, getting help when needed. This will be MUCH slower but will add MUCH more to our hand's on experience and knowledge.
So, the first question. What tools will I need to completely disassemble and rebuild the axles?
I really want to rebuild the axles myself at home, getting help when needed. This will be MUCH slower but will add MUCH more to our hand's on experience and knowledge.
So, the first question. What tools will I need to completely disassemble and rebuild the axles?
should need a hub nut socket for the 14ff rear . should be a 6 tab most all were this . the inner edge of the tabs towards the threads will be kind of rounded .
dana 60 front if its early it will be 6 tab and can use the same socket . if newer then its a BIG 4 tab . NOT the smaller 4 tab .
otherwise no other major stuff unless you need to change the king pin its self in the housing on the inner "C" .
dana 60 front if its early it will be 6 tab and can use the same socket . if newer then its a BIG 4 tab . NOT the smaller 4 tab .
otherwise no other major stuff unless you need to change the king pin its self in the housing on the inner "C" .
