Project P-Dub - 1986 K5 Blazer Modifications and Upgrades...

[PWagon]

This thread is intended to share the modications and upgrades I've done to my 1986 K5 Blazer over the last few years. My truck was bone stock when I bought it, and I've spent a lot of time and money upgrading and modifying the truck. I'll be sure to share part numbers and web links when possible.

Why do I call it P-Dub??? It's short to PWAGON (it's also on its license plate). PWAGON stands for a lot of things. It stands for Party Wagon, Play Wagon, and it can also stand for.... well, you probably saw the Kill Bill movie.

***** Dynomat the Interior *****

A while back I took all of the interior panels, head liner, and tail gate to prep and install Dynomats Extreme sound deadning material. I was considering going with the cheaper alternatives, but online reviews steered me to the heavier Dynomat product. Here are some pictures of my work. Wow, what a difference it made. It's a lot quieter in the cab now, and my music sounds much clearer too. Supposedly the material is supposed to offer a temperature insulation too. I haven't tried testing that out, but it seems plausible.

 

[PWagon]

 

[Burbdood 74]

Looks good! I've got to take the headliner down in my Suburban and I'd love to be able to put sound deadener all over the cabin area. I've found that the drone of the highway on long trips wears you out quick and makes the trip less fun.

How much did you get and how much was the cost if I may ask?

 

[PWagon]

***** 5.3 Liter Vortec Install *****

This is the extremely condensed version of my 5.3 liter Vortec install...

I found a 2003 5.3 liter Vortec engine for sale on Craigslist for $700, and it included the wiring harness, computer, and a lot of other "goodies" to go with it. I hauled it home as soon as I could coordinate with the seller.



My 8 year old son was eager to help me unload the engine and was full of questions about it. I'm glad he's interested, and I hope he takes an interest into turning wrenches and fixing stuff. Anyhow, we unloaded the engine I began my work.



The first thing I did was to verify that the engine was a 5.3. So, I had to take the spark plugs out to view the top of the pistons. This is the only way to visible see if the engine is a 4.8 or 5.3 liter engine. If you see a dished piston top, then you have a 5.3. If the piston top is flat, then you have a 4.8. Sure enough, my engine was a 5.3. Just looking at the engine block won't tell you the engine size since it is stamped 4.8 / 5.3 (they use the same block for both 4.8 and 5.3 engines).




***** Wiring Harness Edit *****

The next bit of "fun" was taking the wiring harness completely apart. I literally traced out every single wire from the computer to each and every sensor on the engine. I removed the unneeded wires and removed the unused pins from the harness plugs. I have to give credit to Brendan Patten at LT1Swap.com for providing awesome schematics and the occasional email advice. I also paid Brendan to reflash my PCM (computer) for my installation. He removed the VATS (vehicle anti-theft system) too. This prevents an engine from starting if the computer senses it's no longer in the original vehicle. All in all, the wiring wasn't too much of an issue.

 

[jeff in co]

Great Project! Hope you son finds some interest...be some great times together!

 

[PWagon]

Installing the engine went smooth. I paid a close friend in unlimited beer drinking while we installed the engine. Thankfully we got it installed while we were still sober enough to think straight. The engine sat kinda tight between the frame rails, and I had to order a set of factory Chevy Trailblazer SS exhaust manifolds in order to clear the frame.

Also, my factory air conditioner compressor would not fit without hitting the frame, so it had to come off. I'll relocate it later.



I still had the original (factory installed) radiator, and it was worn out. It has leaked so much that it just had to go.



I installed an all aluminum Griffin LS cross flow radiator I ordered from Summit. It's purdy, and it's awesome-dot-com.



Yet another conversion gremlin showed up. The Vortec engine did not have accommodations for my vacuum brake booster. So, I had to do some research. I found this adapter from my local GM Stealership that plugs into the back of the intake manifold. The brake booster now plugs in without issues.



I now needed exhaust, so I drove it over to the local radiators, tires, and tacos store (yes, odd combination). They welded up some Thrush hush-turbos with down tips at the axle.

 

[PWagon]

I still need to find a '86 compatable temp sensor to replace the 2003 computerized sensor. Still looking.



I ordered and installed a cold air intake. I still need to build a box around the air filter.



The wire harness fuse box is installed on the driver side fender well. It's enclosed in a hot-tub weather proof housing I found at Lowes. Go ahead and laugh, but it works really well.

 

[PWagon]

The Dynomat was kinda pricey. I bought two boxes and a roller for a little over $240. I had almost a full box left over. I eventually plan on taking the carpet out and Dynomatting the floor.

 

[NorCalAnthony]

Sweet project. Looking forward to seeing everything else you've done and still have planned

 

[PWagon]

***** Leaf Spring Replacement *****

The combination of 28 year old leaf springs and a 2003 oil pan came into contact (literally) with each other the other day. My 2-leaf leaf springs just sag too much. Apparently the speed bumps will make my axle differential and oilpan touch. Luckily the oil pan did not crack or bend. I ordered a set of stock height, 3-leaf American made leaf springs from Eaton in Michigan. They installed easily and gave me a little more lift than expected. I decided not to go with a lift for several reasons. Mostly, I just wanted to keep it stock.

 

[Burbdood 74]

The Dynomat was kinda pricey. I bought two boxes and a roller for a little over $240. I had almost a full box left over. I eventually plan on taking the carpet out and Dynomatting the floor.

Wow! That's pricey but not undoable IMO. If it keeps road noise out and the tunes in, well worth it I guess.

 

[82355]

Notice any difference in ride quality with the three leaf pack?

Martin

 

[PWagon]

Well, I had a hard time deciding on 2 or 3 leaf. Since I bought the truck, I have added both a Warn Transformer grille guard and 12,000 lb Warn winch to the front bumper. That's a lot of weight hanging off the front of the truck, so that's what convinced me to go with 3 leafs. It now has quite a bit stiffer ride, and I'm okay with that. I just need to replace the rear leafs now so the truck sits more level.

 

[rebelgregory]

Love the hot tub fuse box. Keep the posts coming.

 

[Ten_Bucks]

Just out of curiosity, what motor mounts did you use?

Scott

 

[PWagon]

There are a lot of options out there, but I ordered from Dirty Dingo (let the hissing begin). I know there are folks out there that have personal issues with DD, and that's okay. I guess I was in a rush when I ordered my engine mounts, and I didn't put too much thought into it.

 

[PWagon]

***** Headlight Relay to Make Both Low and High Beam Light Up (not just either or) *****

My K5 is an '86 model, but I have a newer front grill (out of a '91 K5), radiator support, and headlights installed. My headlight wiring harness will only energize one of the two headlights at a time (high or low beams only). Since I installed the newer headlights ('91), I can only illuminate high beams or low beams (not both). Why does this matter you ask? Well, why wouldn't you want the extra light from a low beam while you're using your high beams? It just makes sense. Here's how I got around Chevy's design.

Now, when I turn on my headlights, only the outer lights light up. When I engage the high beams both the outer and inner lights illuminate. It works like a champ, and I have a lot more light in front of me.

 

[PWagon]

***** Custom Bumper / Tire Gate / Swing Gate *****

For about 3 years now, I've tried to come up with a design that I liked. The biggest problem has always been the latch (to keep it shut). I've made, and have seen, a lot of ugly and poorly designed latches out there, and I finally came up with a single latch design that secures the gate in all four directions. Here's my design.

I started with 3/16" box steel. The bumper is tapered at the ends for added ground clearance. The gate will only be 3' long since I don't want too much stress on the chrome moly spindle.

 

[PWagon]

More pics of the build. The latch assembly is taking shape too. Notice the slanted angle of the catch latch (5th picture down). It forces the gate forward and down against the bumper at the same time.

 

[PWagon]

More pics... Lights, clevis mounts, trailer plug, and bottle opener getting installed. What?!?! I guy needs to open a beer bottle every now and then. I even added a gas charged lift assist to keep the gate open. I hate it when doors close on me on uneven ground.