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Project P-Dub - 1986 K5 Blazer Modifications and Upgrades...
- Thread starter PWagon
- Start date
WOW! Nice work dude 
That's exactly the kind of bumper I eventually want to put on my rig. Too bad you don't live closer, there may be a few beers in it for you to build another one
That's exactly the kind of bumper I eventually want to put on my rig. Too bad you don't live closer, there may be a few beers in it for you to build another one
Looks good, i'm planning on fabbing front and rear bumpers this winter. I have to ask, why did you set it so low? Just curious, on mine i plan on having it high enough so the tail gate can still swing down. With shackle attachments and a receiver hitch also.
, i'm planning on fabbing front and rear bumpers this winter. I have to ask, why did you set it so low? Just curious, on mine i plan on having it high enough so the tail gate can still swing down. With shackle attachments and a receiver hitch also.
It may look low to the ground, but it's not. The new bumper actually has more ground clearance that the factory one did. The new bumper is as high as I could get it while still being able to let down the tailgate. Once the tailgate is down, there's only about a 1/4" gap between the bumper and the gate. The diamond plate is at a downward angle only because it's bolted to the frame, and the frame angles down.
Mind me asking where spindle for tire carrier and latch came from? More details on this bumper/tire carrier would get a lot of us highly interested. I know I could really use extra room inside with a 33 and just be bad ass having a bumper like this!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Subscribed. Awesome truck!
Here is a quick list of the parts and some web urls to order the parts.
QUICK PARTS LIST:
The latch is part number LT-40334, and it was ordered from Amazon.com.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058FJYQ8/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1415115156&sr=1&keywords=lt-40334
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The chrome moly heavy duty hinge kit was ordered from A to Z Fabrication.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16138
**************************
The Clevis Mounts were ordered from A to Z Fabrication also.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16175&cat=0&page=1
**************************
The spare tire carrier wheel mounting plate was ordered from A to Z Fabrication.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16174
**************************
The backup lights (with rubber grommet), license plate mount (with built in light), and 6-way trailer plug were purchased from Southwest Wheel and Tire in Dallas, TX.
https://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-4169-6-oval-sealed-flush-mount-clear-led-utility-light.aspx
**************************
The gas charged shock (to keep the gate from closing when I want to keep it open), is a Stabilus model # SG359011 (rated at 40 lbs lift assist). I purchased this item at Orielly's Auto Parts.
QUICK PARTS LIST:
- 6" x 2" x 3/16" box steel (20' long) - $130
- 2" x 2" x 3/16" square (20' long) - $40
- Latch Type Toggle Clamp - $13
- Heavy Duty Spindle Hingle Kit (Chrome Moly) - $80
- Clevis Mounts - $23
- Spare Tire Mounting Plate - $33
- LED Backup Lights (with Rubber Grommet) - $40
- Semi Gloss Black Rustoleum Paint - $12
- Yeti Bottle Opener - $20
- 6-Way Trailer Connector - $13
- License Plate Mount with Light - $4
- Stabilus Lift Assist Gas Shock - $20
The latch is part number LT-40334, and it was ordered from Amazon.com.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058FJYQ8/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1415115156&sr=1&keywords=lt-40334
**************************
The chrome moly heavy duty hinge kit was ordered from A to Z Fabrication.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16138
**************************
The Clevis Mounts were ordered from A to Z Fabrication also.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16175&cat=0&page=1
**************************
The spare tire carrier wheel mounting plate was ordered from A to Z Fabrication.
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16174
**************************
The backup lights (with rubber grommet), license plate mount (with built in light), and 6-way trailer plug were purchased from Southwest Wheel and Tire in Dallas, TX.
https://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-4169-6-oval-sealed-flush-mount-clear-led-utility-light.aspx
**************************
The gas charged shock (to keep the gate from closing when I want to keep it open), is a Stabilus model # SG359011 (rated at 40 lbs lift assist). I purchased this item at Orielly's Auto Parts.
I like the over center latch. That is one of the best bumper latch designs I've seen so far.
_______________________________________
*****Here are the bumper measurements*****
Several of you guys have asked for the bumper measurements, so here they are. I apologize for taking so long to add them, but I've had a lot going on.
The diamond plate was an after thought, but I like how it turned out. I went down to the local Metal Supermarket (downtown Dallas), and they cut me a custom sized piece 74" long and 5" wide for less than $30. I mounted it straight to the top of the frame rails and then fabricated 1/2" square tubing to give it support underneath. I then used stainless steel screws to hold it in place.
***** Electric Side Windows Slow to Roll Up and Down *****
My passenger side window has been rolling up and down really slow. I've done everything imaginable to speed it up, and I've finally decided that the amount of power to the window was insufficient. The old wiring and connections were likely the cause. I confirmed my guess by apply a 12 volt wire straight from the battery to my motor.
Long story short, I ran a new 14 gauge hot wire from my fuse panel through the dash, behind the kick panel, through door jamb rubber conduit, and into the door. I then wired in relays as shown in the below diagram. I can't remember where I got this diagram from, but it's golden. So hang on to it - You'll likely need it at some point. I bolted the relays to the metal of the door (behind the door panels). I was a little intimidated at first, but it's literally dummy proof. I followed the diagram and it works perfectly. My window now zips up and down like a champ.
*Please keep in mind that all windows (mine included) need to be clean and well lubricated to roll up and down. The more resistance the window has, the slower it moves. So, be sure your window tracks, etc are clean and well lubed. Dirt has a tendency to accumulate on oily tracks and turns it to a thick muck. That'll slow down window movement over time.
*****Here are the bumper measurements*****
Several of you guys have asked for the bumper measurements, so here they are. I apologize for taking so long to add them, but I've had a lot going on.
The diamond plate was an after thought, but I like how it turned out. I went down to the local Metal Supermarket (downtown Dallas), and they cut me a custom sized piece 74" long and 5" wide for less than $30. I mounted it straight to the top of the frame rails and then fabricated 1/2" square tubing to give it support underneath. I then used stainless steel screws to hold it in place.
***** Electric Side Windows Slow to Roll Up and Down *****
My passenger side window has been rolling up and down really slow. I've done everything imaginable to speed it up, and I've finally decided that the amount of power to the window was insufficient. The old wiring and connections were likely the cause. I confirmed my guess by apply a 12 volt wire straight from the battery to my motor.
Long story short, I ran a new 14 gauge hot wire from my fuse panel through the dash, behind the kick panel, through door jamb rubber conduit, and into the door. I then wired in relays as shown in the below diagram. I can't remember where I got this diagram from, but it's golden. So hang on to it - You'll likely need it at some point. I bolted the relays to the metal of the door (behind the door panels). I was a little intimidated at first, but it's literally dummy proof. I followed the diagram and it works perfectly. My window now zips up and down like a champ.
*Please keep in mind that all windows (mine included) need to be clean and well lubricated to roll up and down. The more resistance the window has, the slower it moves. So, be sure your window tracks, etc are clean and well lubed. Dirt has a tendency to accumulate on oily tracks and turns it to a thick muck. That'll slow down window movement over time.
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***** Rear Electric Windows Motor Slow Rolling Up and Down - Rebuild*****
I cannot take credit for the below repair document, but I do want to share it with you all. If you're tired of your rear electric window rolling up and down really slow, then this will likely help or fix it for you. It worked for me.
View attachment Rear Window Motor Rebuild.pdf
I cannot take credit for the below repair document, but I do want to share it with you all. If you're tired of your rear electric window rolling up and down really slow, then this will likely help or fix it for you. It worked for me.
View attachment Rear Window Motor Rebuild.pdf
EPK5
1/2 ton status
Pwagon, would you be deeply offended if I copied your bumper?
EPK5
1/2 ton status
Sure, pm me so I don't hijack your thread?
EPK5
1/2 ton status
Did you build a front bumper as well?
No, the front grill guard is a Warn Trans4mer (spelled something like that). I've heard they don't make them anymore and are hard to find used. I bought mine used for $250. The guy selling it had it sprayed with Rhino-Liner. I have no complaints.
EPK5
1/2 ton status
I bought enough square tube to build one for the front as well. I will look around and see what moves me.
Beautiful rig man! I'm sure you could sell a hundred of those bumpers in this place alone. Job well done, thanks for sharing.
***** Dash Cap and Speaker Install *****
My factory original dash was completely worn out. I had cracks so large that I could fit my entire finger in a few. There were even a couple of holes that went straight through the dash. Anyhow, I ordered a new grey colored dash cap from CoverLay.com. I've seen good reviews on a few websites, so I thought I'd give it a try. Here's how it went.
I ordered the dash cap, and I just had to guess at the color. They offered 3 different colors of grey. They offer light, medium, and dark grey, and I chose medium. It cost about $120 including shipping and arrived soon. I removed my original dash and cut out the speaker vent holes.
I then installed my new Kicker brand speakers in the dash. I bought 2 pair of speakers (four total), and they came with mounting brackets, wire adapters, and screws.
I put one at each end of the dash and two in the middle. I then put the original dash pad back in place to make sure I didn't have any clearance issue. Initially I was concerned that the speakers would touch the dash cap, but they didn't. Everything looked great and lined up.
I was now ready to sand the dash down using sandpaper. I used 600 grit. I had to sand both the original dash as well as the inside of the dash cap (so the adhesive had tooth to hold the two pieces together). The instructions were very clear to only use Windex (ammonia based) to clean the dash. So, I followed orders. I then made sure the dash cap would properly seat on the dash. Damn, apparently the cracks raised up and prevented the cap from sitting down. I then took the cap off and used a utility knife to cut away all abnormally raised dash pieces. I repeated this step several times until I was happy with the fitment of the cap.
I then put the tube of adhesive in a glass of warm water for 5 minutes. Then I applied the adhesive around the inner edge of the cap, and then I carefully sat the cap down on the dash. It looked great. I gently pushed and pressed the cap down to make sure the adhesive made good contact. I then sat a few phone books on the dash and wedged old newspaper between the windshield and the dash to hold it down.
The instructions suggest waiting 8 hours for the glue to dry, but I gave it 24 hours for good measure. The next day I took the newspaper and books out, and man it looked and felt great. It's amazing how a nice looking dash will clean up the appearance of a truck.
My factory original dash was completely worn out. I had cracks so large that I could fit my entire finger in a few. There were even a couple of holes that went straight through the dash. Anyhow, I ordered a new grey colored dash cap from CoverLay.com. I've seen good reviews on a few websites, so I thought I'd give it a try. Here's how it went.
I ordered the dash cap, and I just had to guess at the color. They offered 3 different colors of grey. They offer light, medium, and dark grey, and I chose medium. It cost about $120 including shipping and arrived soon. I removed my original dash and cut out the speaker vent holes.
I then installed my new Kicker brand speakers in the dash. I bought 2 pair of speakers (four total), and they came with mounting brackets, wire adapters, and screws.
I put one at each end of the dash and two in the middle. I then put the original dash pad back in place to make sure I didn't have any clearance issue. Initially I was concerned that the speakers would touch the dash cap, but they didn't. Everything looked great and lined up.
I was now ready to sand the dash down using sandpaper. I used 600 grit. I had to sand both the original dash as well as the inside of the dash cap (so the adhesive had tooth to hold the two pieces together). The instructions were very clear to only use Windex (ammonia based) to clean the dash. So, I followed orders. I then made sure the dash cap would properly seat on the dash. Damn, apparently the cracks raised up and prevented the cap from sitting down. I then took the cap off and used a utility knife to cut away all abnormally raised dash pieces. I repeated this step several times until I was happy with the fitment of the cap.
I then put the tube of adhesive in a glass of warm water for 5 minutes. Then I applied the adhesive around the inner edge of the cap, and then I carefully sat the cap down on the dash. It looked great. I gently pushed and pressed the cap down to make sure the adhesive made good contact. I then sat a few phone books on the dash and wedged old newspaper between the windshield and the dash to hold it down.
The instructions suggest waiting 8 hours for the glue to dry, but I gave it 24 hours for good measure. The next day I took the newspaper and books out, and man it looked and felt great. It's amazing how a nice looking dash will clean up the appearance of a truck.
