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CK5
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Nice blazer to get started with. Sucks about the engine. I like that front bumper.
Sh*t happens at least I’ll know exactly what I got under the hood. Supposedly this motor only had ~20k miles on it. The timing set was tight and nothing appeared worn besides that cylinder. It’s impossible to get the plugs out without removing the headers so that leans me towards someone broke the end of a spark plug in it doing things the lazy way.
It’s 97% rust free which is why I wanted it so bad. That’s something you don’t see up north that often.
The front and rear bumpers are custom steel. Someone at some point dropped a lot of money into this rig.
That motor oughta push her down the road nicely. I'm still on the fence about building a hi-po 350 or just manning up and building a 383.
Since you're building anyway...might as well stroke it
Dropped right in.
So far the engine is in.
Torque converter is torqued
All accessories are in.
Somehow in the mix my power steering pump started to leak.
Still need to put in the bellhousing hardware and starter then I can start the top end.
Torque converter is torqued
All accessories are in.
Somehow in the mix my power steering pump started to leak.
Still need to put in the bellhousing hardware and starter then I can start the top end.
Calling it a night.
Start on the top end tomorrow. Pour in some coolant and fire it up.
Really a bummer about my power steering line rupturing. Oh well, rockauto to the rescue.
Start on the top end tomorrow. Pour in some coolant and fire it up.
Really a bummer about my power steering line rupturing. Oh well, rockauto to the rescue.
It looks to me that you have the alternator belt done improperly. It should go around the crankshaft and power steering pullies too. I believe that you could end up with belt slippage at the water pump as is because the belt for the A/C is driving the alternator and the water pump. Of course you shouldn't have a big problem firing it up as is, as long as it doesn't cause a problem immediately.
But I am not sure what application would get you the correct belt length. The alternator moved to the passenger side in '73 and didn't go back to the driver side until '89 with serpentine belt drive. All of the trucks that I have seen in the early 80's had the A/C compressor on the driver side. Do the pulley grooves line up to run a belt around the power steering pump and crankshaft to the alternator?
But I am not sure what application would get you the correct belt length. The alternator moved to the passenger side in '73 and didn't go back to the driver side until '89 with serpentine belt drive. All of the trucks that I have seen in the early 80's had the A/C compressor on the driver side. Do the pulley grooves line up to run a belt around the power steering pump and crankshaft to the alternator?
It’s got custom accessory brackets. Took me like 5 hours to put it back together. Everything lines up just fine and tightens.
Putting everything back just the way it was.
Yeah, I figured that they were custom. But that doesn't guarantee proper performance in my experience.
The alternator has no more adjustment left, so if the belt stretches any, you won't be able to tighten it up more.
I'm just trying to give you something to watch or consider.
Alternator adjusts to the right (facing engine) to tighten using a pry bar on the frame pushing alternator to the right. If alternator was any further left it would ride the valve covers.
No dim head lights at idle ie., underdriven alternator.
Adding accessories like AC and PS can slow down your alternator rpms by more than the recommended 10% underdrive anything less than that and the voltage of alternators drops rapidly at decreasing rpm.
If anything I thought the alternator may be over driven. is that what you were saying? If so I would agree. I took voltage checks when it was running and it spun out 14v consistently though.
Here you can see the bolts that adjust the alternator. 1 bolt the elongated hole and one bolt center>down from pulley. You have to loosen the center>down in order to have the alternator swivel. Push it to the right tighten the elongated bolt and then tighten the center down.
Here you can see the bolts that adjust the alternator. 1 bolt the elongated hole and one bolt center>down from pulley. You have to loosen the center>down in order to have the alternator swivel. Push it to the right tighten the elongated bolt and then tighten the center down.
I see now. I didn't notice that there was no adjustment slot at the alternator. I didn't see where the adjustment was until you posted the other picture.
I wasn't trying to say anything about the speed of the alternator, I was just concerned about what I thought was no adjustment left.
I would have to do math to figure out the speed of the alternator based off of pulley sizes, and since you know how to check your voltage, I don't see any sense in measuring and doing the math.
My original thought and comment about the alternator being driven as it is has to do with how much power can be transmitted through the section of the A/C belt that is hitting on the water pump pulley. It may be fine, I don't actually know how much power it would take to make it slip there. I was looking at it with the perspective of how the factory ran the alternator belt to the crankshaft pulley and around the water pump and power steering pump. I would assume that they did it as such to give more belt surface transmitting power to the other accessories.
However, you may not be able to run a belt in that fashion with those brackets, so in that case I shouldn't have said anything. I can't tell without seeing everything, so I tossed the idea out there.
Hopefully it all works well and I didn't waste too much of your time.
I wasn't trying to say anything about the speed of the alternator, I was just concerned about what I thought was no adjustment left.
I would have to do math to figure out the speed of the alternator based off of pulley sizes, and since you know how to check your voltage, I don't see any sense in measuring and doing the math.
My original thought and comment about the alternator being driven as it is has to do with how much power can be transmitted through the section of the A/C belt that is hitting on the water pump pulley. It may be fine, I don't actually know how much power it would take to make it slip there. I was looking at it with the perspective of how the factory ran the alternator belt to the crankshaft pulley and around the water pump and power steering pump. I would assume that they did it as such to give more belt surface transmitting power to the other accessories.
However, you may not be able to run a belt in that fashion with those brackets, so in that case I shouldn't have said anything. I can't tell without seeing everything, so I tossed the idea out there.
Hopefully it all works well and I didn't waste too much of your time.
Well it’s in there. I put everything back just the way it was.
Now I have sparks shooting off the battery when I try to connect ground.
My ground wire runs off the battery to the frame and then to the passenger side head.
This is how I had it set up before.
It’s acting almost as if the battery terminals have reversed.
Dead 0 on the negative battery cable. 12v at the battery.
I can’t possibly think of anywhere there would be a short.
Now I have sparks shooting off the battery when I try to connect ground.
My ground wire runs off the battery to the frame and then to the passenger side head.
This is how I had it set up before.
It’s acting almost as if the battery terminals have reversed.
Dead 0 on the negative battery cable. 12v at the battery.
I can’t possibly think of anywhere there would be a short.
Are they custom aftermarket or custom home made? I have always been under the impression accessories must be driven by the crankshaft. Is this setup something you have already had installed and gotten extended use out of? Not trying to slam your build, just trying to learn if it works or not. Batteries can reverse polarity which can be checked with an ohmmeter.
It’s a homemade set up. I didn’t get much use out of the truck but everything worked great until I blew the head gasket. Everything except the alternator is ran off the crankshaft.
Battery reads fine so I’m guessing I have a short at the starter wire. Probably touching the housing or something to that effect.
Got to tired and called it a night. Will work on it some more tomorrow night see if I can’t turn it over then.
