My truck avenger was awesome too, but I did find incline limitations. I was half way up a hill when I came to a small ledge, and it cut out. I was in a real bad spot.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
I would go with a qjet if you want to drive it soon without breaking the bank.
If you want better reliability long term go with efi.
I will not drive a carbed truck anymore.
Yeah, luckily there is still one gas station here that sells non-ethanol gasoline. Which is where I get my fuel for my older rigs.
I would like to get this to a point where I could take it on long road trips....... like to Moab for blazer bash for example. 1700 miles one way.....
Lots of stopping and camping on the way of course.
I would like to get this to a point where I could take it on long road trips....... like to Moab for blazer bash for example. 1700 miles one way.....
Lots of stopping and camping on the way of course.
Funny story.....
Looking for a carb on craigslist. Dude says he has a brand new rebuilt qjet.
I ask him for the serial number and the specs. He sends me some pictures.
I’m thinking to myself. This carb looks awfully grungy to be “rebuilt”. So I tell him I’m pretty concerned with the way it looks and that he said it’s rebuilt. It doesn’t look rebuilt at all. Says it was rebuilt “by a shop”.
He says, “the discoloration is from the powder of the fire extinguisher from when it caught on fire”
I sh** you not. Dude hosed this thing down with a fire extinguisher and is trying to sell it as a rebuilt carburetor.
Looking for a carb on craigslist. Dude says he has a brand new rebuilt qjet.
I ask him for the serial number and the specs. He sends me some pictures.
I’m thinking to myself. This carb looks awfully grungy to be “rebuilt”. So I tell him I’m pretty concerned with the way it looks and that he said it’s rebuilt. It doesn’t look rebuilt at all. Says it was rebuilt “by a shop”.
He says, “the discoloration is from the powder of the fire extinguisher from when it caught on fire”
I sh** you not. Dude hosed this thing down with a fire extinguisher and is trying to sell it as a rebuilt carburetor.
I just don’t even know what to think.
Guess they did a real good rebuild if it caught on fire.
Well I had a rebuilt carb catch fire from bad timing
He told me that he was checking for vacuum leaks with starting fluid and caught everything on fire. Lol
I appreciate the honesty from him but it’s not a new rebuilt carburetor from that point forward. It was just super funny. He did admit he isn’t a mechanic. Which should appear obvious at this point. I told him next time to keep a wet towel near by. Not sure what you guys use but when I’ve had carb fires I just lay a water soaked towel over the engine.
I appreciate the honesty from him but it’s not a new rebuilt carburetor from that point forward. It was just super funny. He did admit he isn’t a mechanic. Which should appear obvious at this point. I told him next time to keep a wet towel near by. Not sure what you guys use but when I’ve had carb fires I just lay a water soaked towel over the engine.
That's what I use.
I have done just a towel once, not enough time to get it wet, it worked but if I am working on carburetor again I would have a wet towel handy, I almost caught the towel on fire.
Edelbrock AVS 650...
Alright.
I got a question.
Only cranks unless I have the distributor turned as far as I can clockwise.
Does this mean I need to turn the distributor teeth counter clockwise or clockwise?
I think it means counter clockwise but just want to be sure since I am by myself it’s hard to get it back to TDC
I got a question.
Only cranks unless I have the distributor turned as far as I can clockwise.
Does this mean I need to turn the distributor teeth counter clockwise or clockwise?
I think it means counter clockwise but just want to be sure since I am by myself it’s hard to get it back to TDC
Clockwise on a SBC or BBC is retarding the timing,as the distributor rotates clockwise,I'd assume you need to pull the distributor back out and turn the rotor clockwise a tooth or two more,maybe three,then you can turn it to advance it as needed once it is back in..
Ideally the vacuum can for the advance if you have one,should be facing the passenger side fender once the timing has been set..
Ideally the vacuum can for the advance if you have one,should be facing the passenger side fender once the timing has been set..
my Vacuum advance is probably at a 40 degree angle facing the passenger fender using the firewall as the base of the triangle. The cap is turned very clockwise any more counter clockwise and I get a ping and gas shooting out the carb.
When you set in your distributor at TDC do you have the rotor closer to 2 or closer to 8 ? I always try to get it right on 1 and maybe that’s my issue. I’m also thinking my timing mark may be off for some reason. I was there when we put it on and the motor was at TDC. The correct length timing mark was used. Still seems like I’m having a timing issue.
I stab the distributor in with the timing mark on TDC and set it so the rotor is slightly before the #1 terminal on the cap,so when it slides down in all the way,the rotor ends up turning & facing the #1 terminal or slightly before it..the spiral cut on the gears means you must allow for the distance the rotor turns while pushing the distributor down in all the way..
When the distributor is in right,the HEI coil wiring on the cap should be 90 degrees to the drivers side fender or close to it,and the vacuum can about the same on the opposite side..
If you set the timing this way and still have to turn the distributor a lot to get the engine to start or the timing marks aligned with a timing light,then it is possible the harmonic balancer has "slipped" and the timing mark is off,or it may not be the right balancer ,or timing tab on the timing cover,in that case you will need to pull the #1 spark plug out and find "true" TDC with some kind of tool ,a wooden pencil is something I've used,but you'll need two people,one to hold the pencil and another to turn the crank with a breaker bar..
When the distributor is in right,the HEI coil wiring on the cap should be 90 degrees to the drivers side fender or close to it,and the vacuum can about the same on the opposite side..
If you set the timing this way and still have to turn the distributor a lot to get the engine to start or the timing marks aligned with a timing light,then it is possible the harmonic balancer has "slipped" and the timing mark is off,or it may not be the right balancer ,or timing tab on the timing cover,in that case you will need to pull the #1 spark plug out and find "true" TDC with some kind of tool ,a wooden pencil is something I've used,but you'll need two people,one to hold the pencil and another to turn the crank with a breaker bar..
That’s how I’ve been setting the timing and just made sure once again. Had my wife crank it until pressure popped cylinder #1. My timing mark is dead on TDC. Rotor is facing #1. I’m pretty stumped. I’ll try to put the rotor slightly towards #2 on the cap and see what happens again.
I got impatient looking for a new carb and picked up the edelbrock AVS2. I definitely had carb issues before. I no longer smell gas when cranking. So that’s good.
Purdy
Man. Something just isn’t right. I just can’t find the sweet spot with the timing. It either idles smooth but runs way to hot. Or idles like sh** and runs at a good temp.
Well. I got the tv cable adjusted. Lockup rewired in. Taken it on 3 test drives. Still runs hot at idle but drops to 200 when driving. Maybe this thing just likes to run hot.
