I f you do need to use it on the trail your usually not alone anyway. So as long as your friends aren’t lazy it shouldn’t be a big deal.
CK5
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Project Tetanus
- Thread starter formercruiserhead
- Start date
89 K5 37s H1s 465 swap 241c sye Tub swap rust free
Keep an eye on the spindle as you begin to drive it, that is a lot of weight on a single shear spindle.
I have been debating on running one on each side. I have also seen just one on several vehicles with similar weights. Will see how it does after the latch is done.
Some more progress. Still need to get latch at top to not rattle but it seems very sturdy. Latch at the bottom works well. Added the pin cause I just dont trust it. I see them coming loose on a washboard road.
Yeah X2!
Nice design!
Nice design!
Thanks its really not that bad but just a small rattle that drives me nuts. I put a rubber bumper in a spot that helps. Just need to make sure that is where it is coming from. Could be gas cans, hilift handle ect.
Got the latch done and working. I think I need to make some type of adjustment for the cable.
More progress on the winch bumper. Now need to take off and weld backside and grind the frontside smooth and paint.
Couple more front pics. Picked up some old school KCs. Wife got me some covers for them for my birthday but didnt realize they came 2 in a package so I have 4. So had to pick up a couple more. Lights are just sitting there. Open to ideas for some type of tubing mount for the lights.
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Took my youngest out fishing on fathers day. Was great to use this thing for what I built it for, all around family fun. Been thinking about getting some of the window mount fishing rod /gun holders to help keep rods organized.
Also took the boat out for first trip of the season. Got towed back from the middle of the lake due to a starter flopping around on one bolt. Had to gut the interior to be able to get to the starter. Not cool.
Also took the boat out for first trip of the season. Got towed back from the middle of the lake due to a starter flopping around on one bolt. Had to gut the interior to be able to get to the starter. Not cool.
Sweet lookin k5!
Thanks! Its an honor for sure.
I never got the chance to finish the paint. Have been wanting to sand it down and buff it out just to get it to look a little smoother. But the k5 gets back burnered alot and keeping it running, and house, boat, kids ect. take priority. So this is some long awaited paint finishing. This is not a show truck paint job. Nor have I ever wanted it to be. We cant have cars like that. I really enjoy car shows and the amount of work put into a show quality paint job. But ours get used and abused.
Anyway had alot of orange peel and some issues with clear drying before it hit the panel so basically dry spots. Here is my 20ft paint job getting turned into an 18ft paint job. So some spots were rough so took it down with 800grit which you have to be very careful to not sand through the clear. You usually use 1000-1200. I didnt want to round the bumps with too fine of paper, but flatten them.
Anyway had alot of orange peel and some issues with clear drying before it hit the panel so basically dry spots. Here is my 20ft paint job getting turned into an 18ft paint job. So some spots were rough so took it down with 800grit which you have to be very careful to not sand through the clear. You usually use 1000-1200. I didnt want to round the bumps with too fine of paper, but flatten them.
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I use 3m products. Thats all I ever used when I worked at a body shop in highschool. I am still friends with my boss from back then and he has his own custom shop now and uses this stuff. And he is who I get all my body work advice from and he also taught me everything I know about it, so I get what he tells me to so I dont waste time and money on crap products.
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You can see some of the rough spots here before sanding down with 1000 grit and buffing back.
Some more after. You can see how much smoother it is. Long explanation but they dont put all the solvents in the paints that make them flow well any more. So you need to add alot more of the reducer to get it to lay flat when it hits the panel. I didnt know that and when you are spraying it and it isnt working its too late to experiment you just have to finish. So I ended up with a rough texture in the clear. Looked like dry spots. Some if the areas I took it down with 800 because it was so bad I didnt want to round the bumps with too fine of a grit. Then I buffed it back to glossy with a variable speed buffer. You have to figure out the best speed. Too fast and you are wasting compound, to slow and no real progress. Too hard and you can easily burn through especially on edges and corners. The 3M compound is about $50 a bottle online. Local stores here get $70-80. After you get it back to glossy you finish it with the second finer bottle with a foam pad instead if a wool pad. Less agressive and gets out the swirl marks.
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