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Proper cross-over steering modifications.

I think ORD just uses the standard TREs. If so, as discussed above, you would just not ream it out quite as large. Best bet is to talk to Stephen and make sure. Honestly, I don't see how anyone is running these things (the SL or other big drop pitmans) with less than 6" of lift AND MUCH bigger bumps than the normal/common large 4+" bumps many use with lifts. My DLE still needs the smashed zirc removed, and I'll probably put a plug in after it's greased simply because ever THIS pitman *might* allow it to be tagged on a really hard stuff of the drivers side...

Also, to restate, IMO, if you run a straight drag link, you should not run TREs. On a bend drag link like ORD sells to work around the FUBAR stock cross member, the TREs are flat, so the small amount of miss-alignment is ok. But if you like a straight drag link as I do, I strongly suggest using DLEs in spite of a few who say their's work with TREs. If you get much droop on the passenger front, especially like those who have 52s or custom packs are getting, the a TRE is likely to get mangled...
 
Oh, and it's the early 80s vans, maybe even very late 70s. Just look for the broad flat/wide one and you'll be fine. The one you want has the arm that is so WIDE that it comes in tangent to the major diameter of the sector shaft splined end. In other words, the "disk" like sector end is just like a rounded off piece of bar stock without an obvious "disk" like look. See my pics above, and it's also very like the pic of the orange SuperWinch huge drop pitman shown above. It is NOT like the huge drop in my photos which has the larder "disk" on top. After you get it off, you can verify that it is the one you need by checking the keyways. They should be at 12, 3, 6, and 9 as you hold the pitman vertical. There is a sorta similar one in the later 80s that has the larger "disk" and the keyways are 45* off.

With that discription and pics it should be possible to get what you need.
 
it looks like i got the wrong one, the keyways are 45* off from being at 12, 3, 6, 9. i guess i get to go back and try it again tomorrow. it sucks because it took me almost 1 hour to get the pitman arm off the box at home with it on the bench

also a stock chevy TRE is too big to fit into the stock frod arm.
 
Your luck runs like mine, look on older ones, and the one you need is way broader and flat at the selector end, but not quite as thick. You'll know it when you see it...
 
So basically it needs to be reamed a little for the TRE. I plan to use the bent DL from ORD and TRE's and will be running 52" springs up front. Sorry for the hijack!
 
i went back today and look at all the ford vans he had. they are all the same with the keyways 45* off. the earliest he had was a 82. it must be the 70s vans that have the right arm. tomorrow ill go to another junkyard and try again.
 
Hmm, I think the van I got mine off was marked 82, and the "wrong" arm was on one marked 84 or 85. But I was really just looking under at the arms, not really paying attention to the years. Seems to me the one on my truggy came from a mid 80s. I think Ford must have had multiple boxes that got matched maybe on rating or something. The "wrong" on that the yard pulled first was on a 1 ton. The one I went out and pulled (the right one that is now on the K5) was on a 1/2 ton van. That might help identify it.

Also, if you look back 2 or 3 years, Waxer (use user search?) may have provided more info on the specifics, but I don't think anyone ever got it ironed out...
 
I decided to do some searching for you to refresh my memory. I know what to look for, so the old details have faded. Here are some links for you. Oh, and it looks like some of the guys said the Ford pitman would fit with some ends.

One
Two
Three
Four
 
it looks like a 78 ford van pitman arm is what i need. that should keep me from looking under everything again. maybe i'll get luck and find a 78 ford 1 ton that has the correct spline, drop and taper for a TRE.
 
Not sure what years fit, but it's more than just 78. I look under any van from anywhere in that time frame and always find one or two. Look for a greasy one too. Messy to fool with, but getting off one that has rust on the splines is a major SOB. Also, not so sure a 1 ton Ford would fit. The one ton pitman I had first (with the wrong splines) was still way small...

Edit: Also, if you pull it yourself, take the big nut off, then drop the whole box onto the ground. Getting at it mounted to the frame is a real PIA. Took me about 15 min total when I went back to get the right one and pulled it myself. Must make sure you carry enough tools to get it on the ground. (From memory) 5/8 and 11/16 open ends for the lines, 7/16(?) 12 point for the rag joint or collar, your choice, and 5/8 socket for the box to frame bolts. 1.25" for the big nut and don't recall what the rod end nut was...
 
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Back to the top. We should really make this thread a sticky somewhere, as it has basically EVERYTHING you need to know about crossover in it or linked in it. One thing it is missing though, is tube size. What is the inner diameter required to tap 7/8-18 threads for the rod ends?
 
I know a lot of the shops use 1.25 DOM with 0.25 walls. That gives you a 0.75 ID. Some also use 1.5 DOM with 0.375 walls, still a 0.75 ID. I don't know if they have to drill it out or anything before they tap it, but that's what they start with.
 
The local offroad shop here says its unsafe to have a bent draglink, is this true???
 
Depends on what they mean by "bent". If you mean "damaged", then yes, it is unsafe. But if you are talking about the commercial "bent draglink" made to clear the cross member, then as long as it is a well designed unit with sufficient wall thickness and bent on a proper machine that does not damage the tube, then it will be fine. That said, I do prefer straight and that is what all mine run... but I have to change cross members to fit it.
 
BadDog said:
Depends on what they mean by "bent". If you mean "damaged", then yes, it is unsafe. But if you are talking about the commercial "bent draglink" made to clear the cross member, then as long as it is a well designed unit with sufficient wall thickness and bent on a proper machine that does not damage the tube, then it will be fine. That said, I do prefer straight and that is what all mine run... but I have to change cross members to fit it.
Click to expand...

The ORD draglink is a great example of a bent draglink to illustrate a safe one. While bent, it clears the frame cross member and is made from DOM tubing. I bet it is stronger than the stock tie rod below it!
 
afroman006 said:
Back to the top. We should really make this thread a sticky somewhere, as it has basically EVERYTHING you need to know about crossover in it or linked in it. One thing it is missing though, is tube size. What is the inner diameter required to tap 7/8-18 threads for the rod ends?
Click to expand...

Drill size should be 53/64th's or .8281

http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm
 
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