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Proper Dana 60 hub installation?

GsxrMike

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Sorry guys, I know I've read how to on here b4 but I can't find it searching with my phone.

What is the correct way to install the hubs on my Dana 60? I read on billavistas page to go 50# on the first nut and then back it off about 90* but I have it at 60# and the rotor still turns fine. Can some one give me a quick run down?

And the keyed washer goes between the bearing and the first nut correct? (they don't show it in the parts break down)

thanks!
 
i can just do it by feel now, but the inner nut and outer nut sandwich together that ring thats keyed to the spindle. the one with holes in it im assuming?

i think the first nut it tighten to 50 foot pounds while rotating to seat the bearing for sure, then back it off to 30 foot pounds. adjust back to match up the ring.
ten hammer down on the outside nut.

i think thats the way to do it. did my ten bolts this way, just by feel though.
 
My 60 has a keyed washer, 2 nuts and the locking ring with the little fingers on it. I'm pretty sure the keyed washer goes first, just wanted to be sure. I will try the 50 and then 30 and see if I have any wiggle.

I did it by feel on my 44 and ended up welding a bearing. Guess I was feeling strong that day.
 
paging somebody like scott? im sure he knows the right way.

the inner nut has a little tip coming off of it on one side. then that tip goes into one of the holes on that keyed washer to keep the inner nut from spinning. then the outer "blank nut" tightens up against the two.
 
That tip you are talking about doesn't exist on the 60. 60s have a ring with "fingers" that you bend down to keep the outer nut from moving. I appreciate the help though!
 
ahh you have that type, ive got the ones with the holes. ive never actually used those nuts.
 
both are 2 nut systems.

the washer with tabs is the 1st style.

the pin in nut is the second style.

the washer always goes in the middle of the 2 nuts.

and make sure your socket wont snap off the pin on the newer style. buddy loaned me a socket 1 time. broke both my pins off. then i went and got my own socket with the relefs for the pins to clear.

easy way to tell is 6 slots/teeth is 1st style

4 slot/teeth is 2nd style.

then with 2nd style the washer with pin holes. there is a easy missed trick to lining the pin up to the holes. use a snapring plyers to make getting the washer in and out easy.

but the best thing is take a look at your washer the holes are off set from the key tab just a bit. so if you are off a tiny bit flip the washer over and retry.
 
Thanks for the good info guys! The main question I had was how do I know how tight to get the first nut? And to clear up any confusion, the keyed washer I was talking about is on the far left in the pic.

3fd66da3.jpg
 
flat washer / nut / claw washer / nut

I've always done the inner nut to 50# and back off 1/4 turn, spin the rotor to be sure it's smooth and seated - it shouldn't spin freely but not a ton a drag either. The outer I usually torque to 50# or so.
 
flat washer / nut / claw washer / nut

I've always done the inner nut to 50# and back off 1/4 turn, spin the rotor to be sure it's smooth and seated - it shouldn't spin freely but not a ton a drag either. The outer I usually torque to 50# or so.

That is pretty much exactly how I did it. Thanks for the help guys! :bow:
 

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