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Pulled the Valve Covers.. FOUND THE PROBLEM *EDIT: stud replaced*

What fun do I have to look foward to (watch vid if you can to get idea)

  • pulled stud

    Votes: 6 21.4%
  • wiped out cam lobe

    Votes: 4 14.3%
  • bent push rod

    Votes: 1 3.6%
  • dead lifter

    Votes: 1 3.6%
  • you have to run the engine NEKKID to figure it out

    Votes: 16 57.1%

  • Total voters
    28
Removing the pressed in stud wont be a problem, I had to remove and replace three on a recent engine rebuild the washer and nut method will work fine just dont let the nut bottom out on the threads. You will however have a problem pressing one back in, It is much easier to to get the threaded stud and just tap the head. I only say this from experience I would not offer advise on anything I have not had to tackle myself.
 
will it really be that bad? What if I freeze the new stud and just tap it slowly in, after double nutting it. Should the pushrod guide in the head have at least a little bit of play, because mine does have a small ammount.
thanks,
James
 
I tried to press a stud in once and I could not do it, thats why I went to the screw in studs. Just make sure you get a high quality tap and you will make quick work out of it. And yes there will be a little play in the pushrod guides. You can always try the freezing method, and if you cant get it to go in all the way just pull it back out like the others.
 
tapsanddies.jpg


these probably won't be of much help, will they?
 
That might work for you, I tried with a cheaper tap first and could not even get it started so you will know almost immediatley when you try.
 
You will however have a problem pressing one back in

That is the part I was mostly talking about. This is what it is like to press in a stud without a fully equiped machine shop at your disposal....:doah:. If you modify the head to a screw in stud (which is the only way to do it at home), make damn sure you do not get any metal shavings inside the engine.
 
Sweetk30, there are two different types of screw in studs. The first type that most people are aware of have a hex nut that tightens against the rocker pedestal boss, the second type is just a straight stud with 7/16"-14 threads on the bottom side and a very small shoulder and then the 3/8"-24 threads on the top side, these type studs don't require the machining that is neccessary with the first type.

1-ton, removing and installing press in studs is an easy job that can be done at home with the heads still on the engine and even easier with the proper tools that most machine shops would have.
 
1-ton, removing and installing press in studs is an easy job that can be done at home with the heads still on the engine and even easier with the proper tools that most machine shops would have.

All I can say is...you and I disagree on this, and lets leave it at that.
 
how many of you have seen a pushrod go clean through a rocker on a stock 350 before ?

ive seen it

a coupel of times

once on a 74 G-10 van with the orginal 74 3970010 350 in it


number one intake rod poked through the rocker arm and it ran kinda funny but i drove it 15 miles to here liek that and replaced that rocker and rod and readjusted the rest and it ran great and fine for good after that was an excellent daily driver,

and i might have replaced the stud too, forgot now,



it probably did this because of being ran with the rocker being so loose and finally hammered its way through the rocker arm

its not very good for the valve stem tip either

so dont be running it like that if you can help it


good luck
 
1-ton said:
All I can say is...you and I disagree on this, and lets leave it at that.


:haha:

Scott is an automotive machinist....He knows what he's talking about.
 
Scott is an automotive machinist....He knows what he's talking about.

That is just the problem, for Scott the job is a piece of cake, but for the person who we are giving the advice to, it would be an adventure into the unknown. Sometimes experienced people loose perspective on what may be simple procedure to them, would be a monumental task to another. I still say, pressing a stud back in would not be the most pratical solution for the person we are giving advice to.
 
1-ton said:
That is just the problem, for Scott the job is a piece of cake, but for the person who we are giving the advice to, it would be an adventure into the unknown. Sometimes experienced people loose perspective on what may be simple procedure to them, would be a monumental task to another. I still say, pressing a stud back in would not be the most pratical solution for the person we are giving advice to.

So basically you're underminding this person not thinking he can do a job just because he doesn't have much mechanical background and may have never done this particular job before. That is a crock of ****. Anyone that can listen to someone tell them how to do it and also has minimal mechanical skills can do anything they set their mind to.

Not that it matters or anything because i know you don't care what i have to say but i've seen other post where you have given bad or misinformed information that would cause the person trouble. I get tired of seeing this crap.

We are talking about installing a simple rocker stud. Can't you swing a hammer? There is no rocket science involved with hammering a rocker stud back into the head. :ignore:

You said just a few replies back that he should just buy a new engine. I sure wish i had your money to throw around, buy a new engine because he has $8.00 in bad parts. :screwy:
 
Last edited:
Inbred parts store struck again

I swear my local parts store 10 miles away is like the hardware store on "O Brother Where Art Thou?". They ordered the stud yesterday. I got there today, and they said "the computer said it was just one, but its a box of 16, and we can't take any out of it and still send the whole box back" So I got to hold the part in my hand, and I'm 100% sure it was the right part, but I didn't get to take it home. Screw that. So I'm gonna take my girlfriend into the nearest real town on a date tonight, and swing by a real parts store, which I'm sure will probably have the stud in stock. Looks like it'll be Sunday before I can work on it, and its raining today anyway. Does anybody have a Napa or Advanced part number for a set of oil deflector clips? I've got the part number for the .003" oversized stud. Hopefully I will be able to get the stud, 2 or 3 grade 8 nuts, and a sack full of washers that aren't made out of butter soft steel.
thanks
 
Not that it matters or anything because i know you don't care what i have to say but i've seen other post where you have given bad or misinformed information that would cause the person trouble. I get tired of seeing this crap.

I get tired of you doing the same thing, and this is one of those times. You mean to tell me, that as a machinest, if a customer has studs pulling out of their Chevy heads, that you would recommend them to reinstall pressed in studs over converting them to screw in studs, which is a perminant fix? That is what I call bad advice.

Also, do you know what the chances are of a press in style stud, which has been replaced and hammered back into the head, coming back out again later down the road. Reasonbly good...I can tell you that.
 
You said just a few replies back that he should just buy a new engine. I sure wish i had your money to throw around, buy a new engine because he has $8.00 in bad parts.

Are you the person that sold him this engine?
 
First off, you don't seem to know your ass from a hole in the ground. This guy DOES NOT have a stud pulling out, he has a stud that is sawed about in half and needs to be changed. I agree that if a stud were pulling out then you would machine for a set of screw in studs and be done. In this case and any others like it as long as the stud isn't pulling out but has been sawed to any point you can easily replace it with an OVERSIZED stud. The whole purpose for using an oversized stud is so that it doesn't pull out. :deal:
 
First off, you don't seem to know your ass from a hole in the ground. This guy DOES NOT have a stud pulling out, he has a stud that is sawed about in half and needs to be changed. I agree that if a stud were pulling out then you would machine for a set of screw in studs and be done. In this case and any others like it as long as the stud isn't pulling out but has been sawed to any point you can easily replace it with an OVERSIZED stud. The whole purpose for using an oversized stud is so that it doesn't pull out.

Ok, I thought he had a stud pulling out of the head, which is a more common problem with Chevy small block heads. That rocker arm needs to replaced as well because if the stud is worn, then so too is the rocker arm.
 
I haven't pulled all the rockers and put a straight edge across the studs, but just from eyeballing it, it doesn't appear to be pulled out at all. It is sawed nearly in half.
 
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