And the "rope trick" is simply coiling some rope in through the port so that the valve does not fall inside.
CK5
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Pulling Motor, New one in! New flex pics on last pg.
- Thread starter munepit
- Start date
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
this is gonna get interesting.
as far as i am concerned, this type of work is alittle more advance in technique than just a typical water pump or something type of change, if not don'e right, other things can get screwed up, or you will make more work out of it than originally intended.
It may sound and seem very easy for alot of guys on here, as they more than likely know their way around a Chevy motor fairly easily, but for someone with little technical knowledge on how these things are put together, or the tools needed to do certain jobs and HOW those tools are to be used, it's gonna be a challenge for ya to do this. UNLESS you have someone with you there, while you do this, to either show you how it's done, or walk you through it making sure it's done correctly.
These internet directions are not going to be very friendly, and by that, i mean very detailed in their explanation while you'r working on it.
Good luck with this, i hope it works out for ya, i have been in your situation before, but as mentioned, if i knew i could not do it on my own, i had friends around that did.
not trying to come off as an a$$, just forewarning and advising about the type of work involved is not as easy as alot on here are making it sound.
as far as i am concerned, this type of work is alittle more advance in technique than just a typical water pump or something type of change, if not don'e right, other things can get screwed up, or you will make more work out of it than originally intended.
It may sound and seem very easy for alot of guys on here, as they more than likely know their way around a Chevy motor fairly easily, but for someone with little technical knowledge on how these things are put together, or the tools needed to do certain jobs and HOW those tools are to be used, it's gonna be a challenge for ya to do this. UNLESS you have someone with you there, while you do this, to either show you how it's done, or walk you through it making sure it's done correctly.
These internet directions are not going to be very friendly, and by that, i mean very detailed in their explanation while you'r working on it.
Good luck with this, i hope it works out for ya, i have been in your situation before, but as mentioned, if i knew i could not do it on my own, i had friends around that did.
not trying to come off as an a$$, just forewarning and advising about the type of work involved is not as easy as alot on here are making it sound.
If your just changing valve springs, rotate the engine by hand (clockwise from the front of the engine) and watch for the intake valve opening on the cylinder you want to change the springs on. When the intake is about 1/2 closed, stuff as much rope into that cylinder as you can through the spark plug hole (make sure the rope, and the head is clean) and be sure and leave a tail sticking out of the plug hole. Then turn the engine over until both valves are closed. Be sure and do this by hand only. If you cant turn the engine over by hand and the valves aren't fully closed, reverse rotation, and take some rope out. You want to fill the cylinder as much as possible to prevent the vavles from falling in the cylinder, but not to much as to prevent you from reaching TDC on the cylinder your working on.
Then using a spring compressor, compress enough to remove the locks on the retainer, then release the compressor and remove the spring assy. Compare the new to the old, and install in reverse order. When you turn the engine over by hand, watch for spring clearance, and make sure the coils don't bind.
Good luck
Then using a spring compressor, compress enough to remove the locks on the retainer, then release the compressor and remove the spring assy. Compare the new to the old, and install in reverse order. When you turn the engine over by hand, watch for spring clearance, and make sure the coils don't bind.
Good luck
I don't think your being an ass for letting be know it is not easy. I will not have anybody to help or show me the right way to do it. I am a quick learner and prettry good at workin on my burb. But nothing like this. I don't want to mess it up more than it is now. I might try and find a machanic to do this for me. I kind of wanted to hake the heads off as I have never done that before. The valves are a little different. By taking the heads off and having somebody work on them, I could clean things up under the hood. Pretty ugly under the hood. It would be nice to tell what's new dirt and leaks and such verses what's been there for 12+yrs. Thanks for all your input guys, really, thanks!!!!
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
I agree 110% with this.
You say you need your rig on the road ASAP but when you don't know how to do it, believe me, it can take a lot longer than you think. Why don't you try to find someone who's selling a used running 350 and throw it in? You might be able to find a good motor for around $300 or so.
I just want to thank all of you guys for helping me. I have decided to get the whole engine rebuilt. I don't have much time before the baby comes (less than 8 weeks). I need to do it right the first time. And soon. I am going to pull the engine out this weekend. If I pull it, it will save me some money. Never done this before. I know it will be a PITA. I think I can do it. I will call a friend to help me. I do have a couple questions, I hope you can help. I don't need to pull off the heads right? Do I need to get a fitting to hook to the intake to pull it? I am so excited about getting a new motor I can't think straight. Thanks guys!!!!
This is my first time! I'm not in that big of a hurry. How long does it take a builder to rebuild an engine? A week, that's not bad. It will give me time to clean up the engine bay.
Should I get this rebuilt or buy a long block? I need to do some research. I will look up Jasper and GM. Thanks.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
call around to some local machine shops that may be recommended by friends or people you know.
may be able to have the whole motor completely rebuilt for a decent price if they do it all at their shop.
I'd recommend upgrading to the roller cam & lifter setup if you like pushin high RPM's
I did, and love it just for the way the motor sounds, runs and feels.
may be able to have the whole motor completely rebuilt for a decent price if they do it all at their shop.
I'd recommend upgrading to the roller cam & lifter setup if you like pushin high RPM's
I did, and love it just for the way the motor sounds, runs and feels.
rufusbooth
1/2 ton status
Welp, since you have decided to go rebuild or replace don't put a dime in it to make this one limp along. Definitely check out the price of some crate motors and some local recommended machine shops. That way you can make an informed decision on which direction you want to go.
There are two methods you can go with, bone stock or up the HP a bit. With EFI in these trucks you can make a good amount of power but if you get too crazy you can run into tuning and drive-ability problems. To fix that you would need to have a custom chip burned.
Given the situation you have described I would probably get a bone stock rebuilt long block and be happy. No headaches, no worries about smog, etc.
As far as pulling out your existing motor you were asking about lifting plates. In the case of your motor if it is unmolested you should have two attachment points to pull the motor out on opposite corners of the engine. If I remember correctly it is driver front and passenger back. hook the chain between the two and lift. If you can post up pics of the motor we can point them out to you.
Rufus
There are two methods you can go with, bone stock or up the HP a bit. With EFI in these trucks you can make a good amount of power but if you get too crazy you can run into tuning and drive-ability problems. To fix that you would need to have a custom chip burned.
Given the situation you have described I would probably get a bone stock rebuilt long block and be happy. No headaches, no worries about smog, etc.
As far as pulling out your existing motor you were asking about lifting plates. In the case of your motor if it is unmolested you should have two attachment points to pull the motor out on opposite corners of the engine. If I remember correctly it is driver front and passenger back. hook the chain between the two and lift. If you can post up pics of the motor we can point them out to you.
Rufus
rufusbooth
1/2 ton status
Also, one issue I am sure you will run into is warped/cracked headers. Look your headers over carefully for any cracks during dis assembly. If you find cracks get a new set ordered up ASAP. www.rockauto.com has the best prices I have seen on headers.
If you don't find cracks take the headers down to the local machine shop and have them surfaced. I guarantee they will be warped. Surfacing them will allow them to be reinstalled and not leak in the future.
During assembly you will find that the headers will not bolt up to the heads properly. They shrink up due to the heat cycles. You can rent a manifold stretching tool from the local parts house to stretch out the manifold to get them reinstalled.
Rufus.
If you don't find cracks take the headers down to the local machine shop and have them surfaced. I guarantee they will be warped. Surfacing them will allow them to be reinstalled and not leak in the future.
During assembly you will find that the headers will not bolt up to the heads properly. They shrink up due to the heat cycles. You can rent a manifold stretching tool from the local parts house to stretch out the manifold to get them reinstalled.
Rufus.
Boy do I have a lot of work to do. I found some old pics of the burb the last time it was on the road. 10+ yrs. ago.
This is the motor now. I started taking things apart to pull the engine. Talked to an engine shop today $1150.00 for a rebuilt long block. He has it ready to go right now. 1 yr, 12000 mi. warranty. Or $1500.00 to rebuild my current motor from another shop. Dont know which way to go yet.
Here is a electric fan I built out of a Volvo fan. I used a diamond plate bed rail, Street sign to make the shroud. Should I use this or get a Windstar fan. Thanks
midnite4x4crew
Registered Member
take a compresoin tester and take the radiator cap off and check for bubbles on the cylinder that you have the bad plug on. make sure you have the cylinder at tdc. this will tell if you have a blown head gasket. also check your intake manifold they are knowen for taking a ****!
Too late. The motor is comming out. New long block or rebuilding this motor. Don't know which yet. Thanks for the advice.
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Seems like a pretty simple choice to me. $1150 for a rebuilt long block with a 1 year warranty and you have it right away, or spend an extra $350 or so and have to wait a couple of weeks to get it back.
One of the advantages of getting the long block is that you can still pull your engine out, set it on the ground, set your new engine next to it and take stuff like your distributor, intake manifold, EFI stuff, etc., and swap it directly onto the new block before you forget where it goes or how it hooks up.
One of the advantages of getting the long block is that you can still pull your engine out, set it on the ground, set your new engine next to it and take stuff like your distributor, intake manifold, EFI stuff, etc., and swap it directly onto the new block before you forget where it goes or how it hooks up.
FWIW, this is going to be the first time I have EVER disagreed with the consensus here when it comes to major engine work.
Probably a mistake, since they have more experience with GM than I do.
But, in your original situation, the only thing I would have done was replace the spring.
Either that, or what you are doing now.
On an engine with that many miles and low compression across the board, I would never consider a head job.
All the parts on that engine have worn into each other and have gotten used to each other.
A major change is going to upset a lot.
When you have the heads redone, you will never get the exact same compression that you had before.
All the bearings, rod and main, have been living quite happily with that amount of compression.
When they true up the heads, they will increase the compression.
New gaskets will compensate for that some, but the new gaskets may be thinner.
Either way, things will change.
More compression will put a heavier load on the bottom bearings, both in compression and more developed power.
Less compression will tend to cause more slap and put more strain on the top bearings.
Either way, I think it would survive a new spring better than redone heads.
J.
Probably a mistake, since they have more experience with GM than I do.
But, in your original situation, the only thing I would have done was replace the spring.
Either that, or what you are doing now.
On an engine with that many miles and low compression across the board, I would never consider a head job.
All the parts on that engine have worn into each other and have gotten used to each other.
A major change is going to upset a lot.
When you have the heads redone, you will never get the exact same compression that you had before.
All the bearings, rod and main, have been living quite happily with that amount of compression.
When they true up the heads, they will increase the compression.
New gaskets will compensate for that some, but the new gaskets may be thinner.
Either way, things will change.
More compression will put a heavier load on the bottom bearings, both in compression and more developed power.
Less compression will tend to cause more slap and put more strain on the top bearings.
Either way, I think it would survive a new spring better than redone heads.
J.
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
Take your time when taking the stuff apart, take pictures if needed. And dont worry about the electric plugs for the sensors they only work in the correct sensor so theres no chance of mixing them up, the wiring harness should be pretty well formed into where it belongs by now too, lol.
And seeing that youre in cali, take extra care when dealing with the emissions stuff so it doesnt break, I hear that can get spendy replacing emissions parts.
And seeing that youre in cali, take extra care when dealing with the emissions stuff so it doesnt break, I hear that can get spendy replacing emissions parts.
