Pulling Motor, New one in! New flex pics on last pg.

[munepit]

You know what sucks? Pulling a motor with no power or air tools. I need a compressor and some air tools, and grinders. Its 110 right now in the direct sun. That's all.



And I cannot get the two body bolts out of the core support. They will not come out. ****.

 

[YZEATER]

no torch either?

 

[munepit]

I have a little one. It goes on a can like you use for camping stove. I don't want to burn the bushings. I am soaking in wd40 as much I can for now. I don't even have a deep 3/4 inch socket. I am using two wrenches hooked together. Gay huh! I need some better tools.

 

[YZEATER]

well, that's a good excuse to buy some new ones. 3/4" drive deep well impact sockets and a big ratchet.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

You know what sucks? Pulling a motor with no power or air tools. I need a compressor and some air tools, and grinders. Its 110 right now in the direct sun. That's all.



And I cannot get the two body bolts out of the core support. They will not come out. ****.

i had to use an impact wrench to get them out. , well i didnt have to, but it was def the quickest. digging the front end apart was the most use i've ever gotten out of my air tools. but let me tell you it made it worth it no questions.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

For those who mentioned that 110 psi per cylinder is too low, that number is based on a number of things: was the gas pedal pushed to the floor or not when the motor was turned over, what altitude is the truck at etc.

Up here in CO motors always show much less than the recommended numbers in the manuals because there's less air up here.

Consistency between the numbers is MUCH more important than what the number itself is.


Sorry for the tangent, good luck with the motor swap

 

[munepit]

For those who mentioned that 110 psi per cylinder is too low, that number is based on a number of things: was the gas pedal pushed to the floor or not when the motor was turned over, what altitude is the truck at etc.

Up here in CO motors always show much less than the recommended numbers in the manuals because there's less air up here.

Consistency between the numbers is MUCH more important than what the number itself is.


Sorry for the tangent, good luck with the motor swap

I never touched the gas pedal when turning the motor over. I unpluged the coil, turned over and smelled gas. So I unpluged the fuel injector wires. Pluged in the compression tester. I turned the motor of like 6 times till I got max number. Sorry for ignorance, why would give it full throttle while doing a compression test? this motor is worn out. It its hay day, it was ran real hard. It hit like 250 or more and I didn't care. Now I do, so new motor
going in. Thanks man.

The Altitude is about 200 feet here.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I never touched the gas pedal when turning the motor over. I unpluged the coil, turned over and smelled gas. So I unpluged the fuel injector wires. Pluged in the compression tester. I turned the motor of like 6 times till I got max number. Sorry for ignorance, why would give it full throttle while doing a compression test? this motor is worn out. It its hay day, it was ran real hard. It hit like 250 or more and I didn't care. Now I do, so new motor
going in. Thanks man.

The Altitude is about 200 feet here.

Because the throttle butterflies are practically closed if you aren't touching the gas pedal. When you push on the gas and open the butterflies it lets more air in, that will surely affect your compression numbers.

 

[munepit]

Because the throttle butterflies are practically closed if you aren't touching the gas pedal. When you push on the gas and open the butterflies it lets more air in, that will surely affect your compression numbers.

Well crap. I have the engine almost out,couple more bolts. T.B. is off, along with everything else. I have already made up my mide to gvet another motor. It.s commin out. I need to clean up the engine bay bad. The instructions on the compression checker never said to give it wide open throttle. It did sit with water in the motor and radiator for many many yrs. In the last month I flushed around 15 times and the **** comming out is all rust or something. Nasty. Looks like the spill in the gulf. Bad. Maybe I don't need a new motor, but since it has taken me 10+ hrs. To pull it, might as well. Should I have a shop check it out? Thanks guys. I love this site, the people here. Thanks.

 

[munepit]

well, that's a good excuse to buy some new ones. 3/4" drive deep well impact sockets and a big ratchet.

Well, I got some tools at harbor freight( I know,its not quality). It was hard, but it came out. Its SO much easier to work on this pos with the core support out. Wish I would have taken out the core support first. Its to hot here, 100+ this weekend. The wife and I are headin to Santa Barbra so I can cool off. We are stayin at a indian casino, gettin drunk and makin money! If I win, I'm puttin it all in the burb. Wish me luck! Thanks again.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Good luck man. Enjoy the AC and win big. Should be easier to relax knowng how easy your engine pull will b now.

 

[munepit]

Good luck man. Enjoy the AC and win big. Should be easier to relax knowng how easy your engine pull will b now.

I know. Wow. Three more bolts and it out. I will do it on Monday after work. I am also putting in a weld in power sterring brace from ORD. It showed up today. It will be a lot easier to do now that the core support is out. I ordered it because I thought I saw a crack in the frame. Now that I have room to work and see, there is no crack. But, its going in anyway. A. Member here, Bradshawtech is going to help me. I don't know how to weld, yet.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Nice. After I got my engine out and saw the support out I was wishing I had more parts to throw in since I know I'll probably not have it out again for a while. Wouldve been super convienant.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Well crap. I have the engine almost out,couple more bolts. T.B. is off, along with everything else. I have already made up my mide to gvet another motor. It.s commin out. I need to clean up the engine bay bad. The instructions on the compression checker never said to give it wide open throttle. It did sit with water in the motor and radiator for many many yrs. In the last month I flushed around 15 times and the **** comming out is all rust or something. Nasty. Looks like the spill in the gulf. Bad. Maybe I don't need a new motor, but since it has taken me 10+ hrs. To pull it, might as well. Should I have a shop check it out? Thanks guys. I love this site, the people here. Thanks.

That doesn't mean the motor wasn't tired, the compression numbers still may have been low anyway and IME the bearings usually are more worn than the rings.

 

[munepit]

Well, I got the engine out. What a PITA! Now the work begins. I am going to clean up the engine bay first.

 

[munepit]

More

 

[K85 Octane]

yep, el cheapo impacts from HF are great. Only thing is, they are heavy and the walls are thicker than quality sockets. eh

Yea it was freaking hot last weekend. I was out with the blazer too, only I'm near LA, so I'm sure it was cooler. A big awning from home depot would have been nice, 20x10 are about $150 I think.

When I put the engine back in I'll look into taking the core support out. I pulled the intake manifold off and got my chains as tight as possible, right against the boom. With 31" tires on, ~3" lift, I cleared the core with a light scratch on the pan lol. Tires or core are coming off next time. O and I'm partly on grass ugggg, need offroad cherry picker wheels. Think I'll throw couple sheets of plywood down next time. Could prolly see the wheel marksBTW, she was my first too Glad my cousin told me about the trans pins and dipstick. When it goes back in, buy yourself a long extention, about 2-3' for your 3/8 drive and a 3/8 air ratchet. Makes working on the trans bolts EASY.

 

[4xcrazy]

I have a 4" lift, and 35" tires, i have replaced the motor in my Burb twice now, (second was brand new) i would also keep the chain somewhat tight across the top like that, but i would also either let all the air out of my tires, or just remove the whole wheel assembly and set the front axle on the ground lightly.

yes much easier to get to everthing with the core support removed, but also alittle more time for a complete process.

I'm personally hoping i won't have to do this again for a long time, bad enough i have to replace some/all lifters, as i have a feeling the shop used the cheap JapCrap ones

 

[munepit]

What the hell is this? Two cooling ports are blocked with some kind of plate. One on each side, closest to the firewall. There are 2 that are rusty, 2 are black, and two that are blocked. WTF. This motor was put in at the dealership.

 

[munepit]

Here is the intake.