CK5
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Put your Blazer on a diet

For the most part I would agree.

However, I would argue that with a better relationship between CG height and track/wheelbase, a better designed suspension (travel/articulation), better approach/departure/breakover angles, and better traction and low speed control (tires, lockers, and gears) a heavier rig would do much better than a lighter one that didn't have those attributes (assuming it can fit in the same holes).

Compare your truck to a stock sammi. :deal: :D

Of course, all else being equal, the lower weight rig will perform better.
 
For the most part I would agree.

However, I would argue that with a better relationship between CG height and track/wheelbase, a better designed suspension (travel/articulation), better approach/departure/breakover angles, and better traction and low speed control (tires, lockers, and gears) a heavier rig would do much better than a lighter one that didn't have those attributes (assuming it can fit in the same holes).

Compare your truck to a stock sammi. :deal: :D

Of course, all else being equal, the lower weight rig will perform better.

Agreed

A 2500 lb Samurai on 29's is never going to hang with a 5000 lb buggy on 42's. But a 3000 lb buggy on the same tires will make the 5K one look silly.
 
Wow, great thread for people looking to lose weight!!!

Lots of people mentioned putting a truck tailgate in place of the large/heavy stocker. Is this a bolt in affair? I searched and did not find any matches, granted it was probably the user and not a system error :)
 
so back to the theme of this forum, what would be your top tips to save weight for a daily truck and what would be your tips for your tail rig that might or might not be drivin on the street. basicly what has worked and worked out best for all of you?:bow:
 
so back to the theme of this forum, what would be your top tips to save weight for a daily truck and what would be your tips for your tail rig that might or might not be drivin on the street. basicly what has worked and worked out best for all of you?:bow:

The top is pretty heavy, a soft top weighs next to nothing (even if you have to make one). Of course, no top is pretty light too ;)

Of all the sheetmetal I cut off of mine (which is basically all of it), the rear fenderwells were the heaviest (150 lbs. each maybe?).


It all depends on how far you want to go, losing the carpet and insulation will drop maybe 100 lbs.
 
sounds good. i have an 89 and an 82, going to get rid of my 89 because of moving to a new base but my 82, has only seats and factory rear roll bar. carpet is gone. back half is rino-lined and from will be when i get home in spring. i often wheel with no top. it is a dd. looking at puting a new Lsi in so the aluminum heads should save some and if i can find one for the right price i will get the all aluminum kind.

you are right no top makes a HUGE difference!:D
 
The carpet and insulation should be pulled anyway since it is the primary cause of rust after road salt. It was the first thing I did to my Blazer.
 
383k5 i love the fact that you stick with the program and tell it like it is. no bs and seems to me that your chevy is your only wheeling rig? so tell me are you located in colorado? just curious and would love to run bb and from the pics it seems that the big boys are leading different runs on the bb. sorry if off topic but just love the chevy gear and thats what gets me going. maybe getting tired of jeep junk who nows. :eek1: did i say that. johnson valley this weekend if interested. :bow: gm rules!!!!!!!!!!!! ord keep up the good work.
 
383k5 i love the fact that you stick with the program and tell it like it is. no bs and seems to me that your chevy is your only wheeling rig?

I only have the one truck

so tell me are you located in colorado?

Yep


just curious and would love to run bb and from the pics it seems that the big boys are leading different runs on the bb.

Its not the "big boys" (whatever that means :p:) that lead the trails, its the people who know the trails well. I've led several trails during Blazer Bash and I bet I've been to Moab nearly 20 times.

Blazer Bash is a TON of fun, highly recommended :thumb:
 
mr. pickle said:
Lots of people mentioned putting a truck tailgate in place of the large/heavy stocker. Is this a bolt in affair? I searched and did not find any matches, granted it was probably the user and not a system error :)

yep, bolts right in. you need to get a tailgate and all of the hinge assembly - as the hinges are completely different, and it has metal strap dealios instead of the cables. i've done this on my rig - i really like it. only thing i don't like about it is that it rattles more than the blazer gate. probably could fix that with some weather stripping tho.
 
carrying the end that the window slides up into is MUCH heavier than the front end of it. I think that 175lbs is quite under estimated, but 350 seems like too much too.

I think 350 would be real uncomfortable on my back, and I used to walk it off of the truck by myself regularly. Seemed like a fairly easy squat - maybe it's 250 ish?
 
And so it begins....................................................

I am going to reuse a portion of the fire wall and tube it out and put my sheet metal on as skins. I also already made a new flat belly crossmember and welded the tubes on my 14FF.
Cut out the old cage and may use a portion of it. Will be narrower, lighter.

IMG_0676.JPG

IMG_0678.JPG
 
sure, there's even a guy on here who has a completely fiberglass body. to me, it's too risky in a wheeling situation to use fiberglass though. instead of dents I think you'd get rips and tears. that would bug me, but dents don't.
 
Thought I would share a most recent pic that I have of the progress. A little more has been done but no pics......yet.

Lost a bunch of wieght....it's now on its tires and off of the stands and the ride hieght is 3" taller...even after I removed zero rates from rear.

keep in mind, I am putting the floor and dash in first before I do the door bars.

truck progress 8.JPG

truck progress 9.JPG
 

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